Router table for my Ridgid 4511

[tbarn]

I finally finished making a router table for my new R4511 saw.
It took a lot of custom work but it did not cost me $.01. Everything I used I had around the shop, including a large piece of 1/2" phenolic left over from a job.
The top is 1/2 phenolic and it removes just like a router plate only a lot bigger.
I am very impressed with the saw now that it's capabilities are back on par with my BT3100
Now I just have to make a router fence. I think I will use plans from wood mag.

[tommyt654]

Nice work, I will be makin one for mine sometime in the future may ask more about yours then,Tommyt

[tbarn]

Nice work, I will be makin one for mine sometime in the future may ask more about yours then,Tommyt

Sure thing. I read a ton of other posts to figure out my build so I would be glad to share any info to help you out.

[LarryG]

Now I just have to make a router fence. I think I will use plans from wood mag.

That's a great fence design that several of us here have built. A couple changes you may wish to consider, to simplify matters and speed up the build:

1. Each half (infeed, outfeed) of the fence has two sliding sections, stacked atop each other. The lower sections are 2" high, the uppers are 1" high; if you open both together, you get 3" of vertical clearance. I built my fence shortly after the design was first published and in all that time, I have never once opened the 1" upper sections. So depending on what kind of bits you routinely use, you might be able to dispense with the upper sliders.

2. Depending on how you secure the fence to the router table, you could further simplify the design by putting all the adjustment on one side. This will require offsetting the entire fence toward the opposite side in order to center the bit in the opening, which is why the means by which you secure the fence to the table matters.

The next router table fence I build will incorporate both these changes. It will have only one sliding section, located on the infeed side. I might make it 2-1/2" high, just in case, although I've yet to run into a cut when 2" of vertical clearance wasn't enough (YMMV). The reason is because these sliding fence sections are the fussiest parts of the fence to fabricate. Instead of having four of them to make, I'll have only one.

[phi1l]

That really looks nice.

Is it easy to change bit's with that router/design ?? Also, how about height adjustment??

[tbarn]

That really looks nice.

Is it easy to change bit's with that router/design ?? Also, how about height adjustment??

It is real easy to change bits. That router makes it a breeze. I can change them without removing the top plate. But it is also easy to remove the top. It just lifts up since it is only held in with 3/8" pins.
The depth adjustment is easy too. You unlock the base and twist the ring around the router.

[pelligrini]

Now I just have to make a router fence. I think I will use plans from wood mag.

There was a neat fence design in the latest (April 2010) issue of Fine WoodWorking sent in from a reader. FWW_routerfence.pdf article

[Black wallnut]

A good read before you build a router fence.

[tbarn]

I built my router fence this weekend. I used the wood mag design and modded it as LarryG suggested.
The 2" high bottom fence is adjustable on both sides. the top fence is fixed and also 2" high.
The frame is 3/4" plywood and the faces are made of 1/2" phenolic. (opposite of wood's design)