Router Plate, Lift Opinions Sought

[steve-norrell]

I may get an opportunity to upgrade my router table. Although the best of all would be a cast iron table that the router bolts to (no insert to worry about being level), that is probably not in the works.

So, given your druthers, would you get an aluminium plate/lift or a phenolic one?

Thanks, Steve

[BigguyZ]

I have the Woodpeckers plunge lift. I wish I would have spent the additional $$ for the quick lift, but it's a very nice setup.

[Tom Hintz]

I've used Woodpeckers aluminum lifts for a long time (PRL is my favorite) and have never had a problem. I see no reason to change materials or manufacturers now!

[LarryG]

As I've mentioned before, I had (still have, actually) a Woodpeckers phenolic plate that sagged enough to cause the fit of things like sliding dovetails to be a problem. This under the weight of a Makita RF1101 in its fixed base -- hardly a heavyweight router. When I replaced it, I chose a Rockler/JessEm Mast-R-Lift, the plate on which must be a full inch thick in places. This monster would probably break my foot if I dropped it on it, but I'll never have to worry about it sagging.

[Uncle Cracker]

I've got a Makita M12V monster hanging from a 'Pecker Plunge-Lift... Does everything I've ever needed it to do, and no problems whatsoever.

[cgallery]

I have a Rockler pheonolic lift, been using it for 4-5 years, no sag. Nice and thick in the middle.

[pelligrini]

I've got a JessEm Rout-R-Lift FX in the extension of my BT clone. I've never noticed any sagging what-so-ever. It's pretty think in the middle.

I love the above table adjustment and the repeatability of any adjustments. My only gripe is the location of the crank hole. A lot of the time the hole is right where a featherboard need to be.

[JimD]

My choice is unusual but works well for me. I use a homemade lift based upon plans from American Woodworker. It supports the router and lift from the back of the router table so the weight is not on the top. The top is hinged which is really nice for changing router bits. The parts were less than a lift (around $50) and it works well but I suspect it takes a bit more effort than a commercial lift. The basic idea is to mount the router in a wooden carriage that rides on machined steel 1 inch diameter shafts with oilite bushings mounted in the wooden pieces to keep it sliding smoothly and minimize any "slop". A piece of 3/8 all thread is used for height adjustment so 1 revolution is 1/16 inch.

Jim

[Pappy]

I've got a Makita M12V monster hanging from a 'Pecker Plunge-Lift... Does everything I've ever needed it to do, and no problems whatsoever.

I have the same set up. I bought the ring set to keep the opening as close the the bit dia. as possible. Keep meaning to remove the spring on the 'free' side of the router to make it easier to raise.

[softop41]

Steve,
I have the Woodpecker's Quick-lift in a Woodpecker's tabletop and love it. I've had the Quick-lift since they very first came out and not a moments trouble. They come with an aluminum plate that is very flat. Before that, I had a Woodpeckers phenolic plate in the same table and had no complaints with it either. I would recommned their stuff wholeheartedly; it's a bit pricey but you get what you pay for.
Jerry

[steve-norrell]

Thanks for all the comments.

It seems like there is no clear consensus as to whether or not aluminum is better than phenolic, although LarryG expressed a clear preference for the thicker JessEm/Rockler plate. The same is true for the brand of lift; JessEm and Woodpecker seem equally well regarded.

However, I have picked up on the following:

JessEm (and the Rockler version) have aluminum plates machined from one inch aluminum; Woodpecker plates are 3/8 aluminum (they may be thicker, but I couldn't find that information in their data). The JessEm Routr-Lift FX that I have is 3/4 inch phenolic plate.

My own experience with the phenolic plate is similar to Larry's -- I think there is some sagging when I put pressure directly over the plate, near the bit. Admittedly, though, this could be due to slight warpage in the wood, but I get the same feeling when I am routing the edge of 3/4 inch MDF.

From what I have read and heard, I would have to vote for the thicker plate on the JessEm/Rockler units. Fortunately, I don't have to rush into a decision and could even stick with the one I have.

Ahhh, decisions, decisions, decisions. And to think I retired to get away from them . . .

Thanks for the advice and comments, regards, Steve

[drumpriest]

I have the fx lift with a pc 892 motor in it. It's been great to me, but I think I did also see some warp when I push overly hard downward near the bit.

[jonmulzer]

Instead of the expense of an aftermarket lift have you considered the Triton routers? They were designed to be used in router tables and in addition to having their own sort of "lift" built in they also blow down through the motor (up when mounted upside down in a table) instead of up like most routers. Helps keep it clear of dust. Just a thought.

[drumpriest]

I have used the PC and Bosch "built in" lifts, and I have say they are a step up from being under the table for adjustments, but not equal to a lift like the fx lift.

[steve-norrell]

Jon:

I have had the Bosch mounted so I could access the lift through the table, but then installed the JessEm lift. I have to agree with Keith - - the 'through-the-table" adjustment is a major improvement over the old method, but cannot compare with the ease-of-use and precision of a lift. While I would love to have a Triton, I would keep the JessEm phenolic before going back to a 'through-the-table' system.

Regards, Steve