Shark Guard for Delta Contractor Saw

[ssmith1627]

Had a Shark Guard I'd bought used for my BT. Was very happy with it. Just wondering if anyone is using it with the Delta saw and what they have to say about it. Would appreciate any feedback you have to offer.

Would also like some opinions on the MegaMouth version and the optional pawls and whether or not people have found the shims necessary.

Got my outfeed table/cabinet in place and the rails set up the way I like them. Just need to get that shark guard and get my router table cabinet built !

http://ssmith1627.myphotoalbum.com/v..._0816Smith0020

Thanks guys.

Steve

[ssmith1627]

Man, no one using the shark for a delta saw ? I didn't expect that. Appreciate any feedback anyone has to offer.

Steve

[DonHo]

Sorry but I don't have a delta saw, however I know Lee makes sharkguards for delta saws

http://www.leestyron.com/sharkunisaw.php

May require so different parts to connect a bt sharkguard to a delta but maybe not a whole new guard.

Good luck,
DonHo

[Thom2]

I can't offer you much help with the Delta as I've only used mine on the BT (waiting on parts to convert it for the 22124).

I can already see where I'm really going to miss the riving knife tho', it appears to me that it's going to be rather easy to forget which splitter you have in and possibly run the blade too high right into the splitter. This could be hard for me to get used to after having the riving knife setup for so long.

As far as the mega-mouth goes, FWIW, IMO there's no reason to have that big of a hose running to the guard, any bit of performance you pick up would be severely offset by the hassle of handling a 4" overhead hose. On my BT I simply ran a shop vac hose drop for the Shark and performance was fine for me. I'm sure you'll find differing opinions on this matter tho'.

I've never seen a need for pawls myself. I think one of the biggest reasons Lee began to offer them is that they are required in a commercial shop that's subject to OSHA inspection. A properly set splitter or riving knife will do far more to prevent kickback than any set of pawls will.

[ssmith1627]

I sold my shark guard with my BT so I'm starting from scratch here.

Thanks for the feedback guys. I have my DC ducting fairly well in place now, for the 5th time. So I hope to get the S.G. soon. Set it up with a 2.5" connection near my workbench to give me hose connection for the orbital sander and whatever else I might be doing at the workbench. It's a long run but it won't be sucking up chips or anything substantial that would create a clog. I also put a floor sweep back in place so that's handy.

My runs to my big dust / chip producers are all done now with S&D pipe with two exceptions. I had to put a small piece of flex hose, maybe 2 feet long, on my planer to allow for the height adjustment -- that dust hood moves up and down with the knives. I had to do something similar with the bandsaw because the dust hood is mounted to the lower door and I wanted to be able to open that door to change blades.

Setting things up for this hobby is not easy ! haha

Steve

[Stytooner]

I can't offer you much help with the Delta as I've only used mine on the BT (waiting on parts to convert it for the 22124).

I can already see where I'm really going to miss the riving knife tho', it appears to me that it's going to be rather easy to forget which splitter you have in and possibly run the blade too high right into the splitter. This could be hard for me to get used to after having the riving knife setup for so long.

As far as the mega-mouth goes, FWIW, IMO there's no reason to have that big of a hose running to the guard, any bit of performance you pick up would be severely offset by the hassle of handling a 4" overhead hose. On my BT I simply ran a shop vac hose drop for the Shark and performance was fine for me. I'm sure you'll find differing opinions on this matter tho'.

I've never seen a need for pawls myself. I think one of the biggest reasons Lee began to offer them is that they are required in a commercial shop that's subject to OSHA inspection. A properly set splitter or riving knife will do far more to prevent kickback than any set of pawls will.

Thom, your new parts will go in the mail in a day or two.
You won't have to worry about raising the blade into the splitter. All splitters are the same distance from the blade, regardless of height. I know this makes them less effective than a RK because of the distance away when the blade is low. This does eliminate the possible tooth slinging from hitting the steel splitter though. That would not be desirable.
I have had a few guys ask me to design the splitters closer to the blade and they would just be careful. I just refuse to make them this way. No matter how careful someone is. They can make one themselves or have someone else make it from my pattern, but not I said me.
If the guy was to eventually sell the shark to someone that isn't as careful, you get the picture.

Delta's are my second best sellers behind the BT style saws. Buyers are usually from all the other WW forums around rather than here. Some of the Dark siders from here have do have sharks, but not many are Delta owners.


As for the 4" ports. If you have a big DC (1.5 HP or better) then the 4" is extremely effective at getting even more than from the 2.5". A smaller DC or shop vac would work best with a 2.5" port
Some of the guys with 4" ports have had to use a blast gate on the hose to reduce the suction because of the tendency to suck up thin strips and small chunks.

Thanks, Guys.

[JR]

That sound is JR cheerfully whistling out on the front porch, waiting for the UPS truck to deliver his new Shark Guard.

Cheerful whistling sound.

Cheerful whistling sound.

Cheerful whistling sound.




JR

[ssmith1627]

As for the 4" ports. If you have a big DC (1.5 HP or better) then the 4" is extremely effective at getting even more than from the 2.5". A smaller DC or shop vac would work best with a 2.5" port
Some of the guys with 4" ports have had to use a blast gate on the hose to reduce the suction because of the tendency to suck up thin strips and small chunks.

Thanks, Guys.

Points well taken with the closeness of the splitter. Obviously a RK would stay the set distance from the blade but the splitter wouldn't. Makes very good sense that you don't want it too close. I generally stand left of the blade while cutting but somehow I don't think that'd stop bad things from happening if the blade did come in contact with the splitter. Surely paints a picture.

I had the same / similar results with the 2.5" hose hooked to my HF DC. Some of those smaller strips do get sucked up which I didn't like when the blade was still running because some didn't go up the hose, they just banged around inside the guard. I hadn't thought to limit the "draw" with a blast gate -- that's a good idea. I had the blast gate installed but never thought to use it that way. Fully open for other cuts -- very easy to set if it's right in front of you.

Thanks again for the feedback guys. It all helps. It's like throwing it all into a mulch pile in my head. I just have to keep turning it regularly and eventually I have what I need....haha.

Steve

[Thom2]

That sound is JR cheerfully whistling out on the front porch, waiting for the UPS truck to deliver his new Shark Guard.

Cheerful whistling sound.

Cheerful whistling sound.

Cheerful whistling sound.




JR

Thom, your new parts will go in the mail in a day or two.

I'm gonna go join JR on the porch then!!!!

more Cheerful whistling sounds

Good to know on the splitter too, that was one of the concerns in the back of my head. Now I know I won't have to worry about that!

[Stytooner]

Patience, weed hopper(s).