Simple DIY shop made items for use in the shop. What have you made? Part II

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  • LCHIEN
    replied
    Hank, 9/32" is a size just a hair larger than across the corners of the 1/4" hex bit (which is 1/4" across the flats). A 1/4" hex bit will NOT fit in a 1/4" diameter hole.
    That (9/32") not a snug fit but there's no slop. If you turn it over and shake it they will all fall out. If you don't shake I daresay most will fall out.

    Here's the dope: The geometry-based math says the distance across the flats is .250/Cos(30) which is .28865"
    Manufacturing being what it is there is probably some small radius on the corners.

    I measured a few just a minute ago and they run about .280-.285" probably because they break the sharp edge for that radius I mentioned.

    I suggested an Number series "L" bit at .290 will work. And a 9/32 is .2815" Remember it only touches at two or six points, not 100% of the circumference (like a round shank), so its not hard to get out even if its a pretty close fit. So I find 9/32 is quite good.



    I see I posted this project twice. Oh well. Getting forgetful.
    Last edited by LCHIEN; 09-07-2021, 02:15 PM.

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  • leehljp
    replied
    Something (an idea, an awareness) has recently come to me that I am doing more of my work outside of my home shop than inside. I have always done that but never really analyzed it until recently when I bought another tool box, a Craftsman 3 drawer metal tool box for my sockets. I have an organized HF cabinet (floor to 5 ft high) tool box with wrenches of all kind, screw drivers of all kind and sockets from tiny to 1 1/2 inch and metric to 34mm or 35.

    My problem is that I need to take them (different tools) outside or to another location on a regular basis. And I often lose one or two sockets or wrenches before I get them back into place in the shop large tool cabinet. I recently purchased some decent socket holders for organization and mobility ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 )

    After buying the Craftsman tool box ( https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-P...Box/1001107526 ) I finally became aware that I did most work outside my shop and am having to adjust to that kind of thinking. (I never really stopped to think about this before. DOH)

    Tool Organizers, such as what you made, are a necessity for me so that I can pick up an organizer with the plethora of tools on it and slip it into a portable tool box to take to a site or place. That is much better than picking out a few tools (screw drivers, sockets, wrenches) by guessing what I will need. This has also decreased my losses because everything is organized on the holders before I leave the work - instead of just thrown into one of 3 or 4 totable tool boxes and taking back to the shop, setting one down in one place and the rest in another place and thereby "losing a socket or wrench or screwdriver" in the forgotten tote box.

    MY QUESTION: In post # 25 above, you said that you used a 9/32 bit to drill the holes. (I am in my office so I cannot check on this at the moment) - Does that hold them in snugly or loosely?

    I was thinking if I made one similar to yours, and I have thought about it a number of times, I would probably drill it at precisely 1/4 inch (or experiment) so that none would fall out if the holder got bumped, or jostled around in the tool box, yet not be too tight so as to need pliers to get them out. I could figure stout for myself if I were home, but I just thought I would get your experience.

    Thanks!
    Last edited by leehljp; 08-16-2021, 12:06 PM.

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  • LCHIEN
    replied
    Hex screwdriver bit holder.

    I've been getting frustrated with the lack of organization of all the various bits I have... straight blade, Allen Hex, Torx, Phillips, Robertson not only in tip style but size and length. Ended up buying duplicates because I they were all thrown in a shallow drawer of the tool box.

    I decided to make an organizer I can have on the bench when I need to choose. As you can see its somewhat organized by length and type and size. Easy to make, Drill press with fence and depth stop helps a lot.

    There's a lot of long Robertson #2 because of Kreg jigs/pocket hole screws. All your bits don't have to be here... duplicates beyond 2x are in the drawer. And I have a box of 100 security bits and a couple of other portable bit cases.

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    Last edited by LCHIEN; 09-11-2021, 11:16 AM.

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  • LCHIEN
    replied
    A Router Sitter

    We have seen Sander sitters, a device upon which you can set a spinning orbital sander immediately after use without having to wait for it to spin down to zero.

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    This is the same thing for routers, solving both the problem of the bit still spinning and also its protruding below the base requiring you to either flip the router and stand it on its top or to wait for it to stop spinning. Even after it spins down you can still damage the bit or the work table if you set the router right side up on the table. It protects the bit and table top, spinning or not.

    Without further ado, here is a design I found on the internet and built years ago that does the job and has a little style as well.
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    Router sitting on it: Don't you love those maple handles on the original Bosch 1617s? Makes a really handsome router.

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    Here's the router base you can easily see how it works.
    A few places to store bits and collets while working.

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    You can make one much simpler...instead of the curved cut, just make two vertical rails at a slight angle and a couple of narrow shelves extending from the rails... don't need the beveled cuts either.
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    Last edited by LCHIEN; 01-04-2022, 06:59 PM.

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  • LCHIEN
    replied
    Hank... Kreg Jig (pocket hole jig) screws are all Robertson (Square) drives and you need long bits to reach.
    I bought some Torx bits, Torx becoming more common for deck screws.
    What I found really odd is I don't have a single loose Allen bit, although I do have some in some "sets" of bits.

    I really hate the short bits you get that are like 3/4 to 1" long. I prefer the 2" bits for most stuff and every once in a while you need some long bits. - The Robertson #2 for Kreg you need about 4" to reach that pocket hole recessed bit. with a driver.
    Last edited by LCHIEN; 01-06-2022, 03:11 AM.

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  • leehljp
    replied
    Excellent Loring. Do you use a lot of square drive screws? And I see the hex head bits too.

    I like square drives OK but When I am out and about helping others, I only carry my standard Phillips drive. If all of my work was in my shop, I wouldn't mind square drives and hex heads. As it is I have started putting a variety pack of drive bits in my tool box, but somehow they make their way out of the box just when I need them most!

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  • LCHIEN
    replied
    Hex Bit Holder
    I've been needing to organize my hex screwdriver bits. They are in a flat drawer all jumbled together and I don't know what I have so I often order some I don't need.
    This holder makes it easy to see which I have and what lengths they are. I can put it on the work bench and select easily.

    About 45 minutes-hour for this one.

    A 9/32 bit (0.281 dia) will make a nice slip fit for 1/4" hex shank bits. An "L" drill (.290) will be a bit looser.
    I found a spacing of 7/16" to be nice.
    Drill press with depth stop is great for this.
    I thought a 1-1/2 inch wide x 8-5/8 piece of scrap looked about the right size, it holds 51-57 bits.
    I thought that would be plenty but its not enough, really just barely held my loose bits.

    plan 1:1 template for drilling Visio-Hex bit holder.pdf



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    Last edited by LCHIEN; 09-07-2021, 11:00 PM.

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  • dbhost
    replied
    Originally posted by LCHIEN

    I got tired of my short, bevel attempts looking like this:
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    Yeah, that's what I am saying. I need to set up the jig because, mine are downright nasty. One trick though, chuck the dowel chunk in the drill press, and set up a 45 degree sanding block, lower the dowel piece into the sanding block. It works, but not super elegant...

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  • LCHIEN
    replied
    Originally posted by dbhost
    Just went over the jigs and stuff you guys made from this thread and I must say, I now know I need to make a dowel chamfer jig instead of free handing it at the sander. And I need to do it soon. We've got a LOT of organization projects that could use hanger pegs. Kind of a high school wood shop project I know, but it sure is a useful one!

    Oh, and I need to make more of those air hose hangers. And replace the hose in my overhead reel as it is cracking.
    I got tired of my short, bevel attempts looking like this:
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  • LCHIEN
    replied
    Originally posted by radhak
    That is brilliant! I last used my lettering set a decade ago, and I believe this problem was the main issue and while then I kludged my way thru, I remembered the pain and never tried it again.

    I should make these holes in my clamps already - this setup should be useful for other situations too.

    Thanks!
    I suggest using a 12" handscrew clamp. It has enough width, and the side depth over the screws is 3/4" enough to make a workpiece sign flush with the clamp bodies which is what you want.

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  • dbhost
    replied
    Just went over the jigs and stuff you guys made from this thread and I must say, I now know I need to make a dowel chamfer jig instead of free handing it at the sander. And I need to do it soon. We've got a LOT of organization projects that could use hanger pegs. Kind of a high school wood shop project I know, but it sure is a useful one!

    Oh, and I need to make more of those air hose hangers. And replace the hose in my overhead reel as it is cracking.

    Leave a comment:


  • radhak
    replied
    That is brilliant! I last used my lettering set a decade ago, and I believe this problem was the main issue and while then I kludged my way thru, I remembered the pain and never tried it again.

    I should make these holes in my clamps already - this setup should be useful for other situations too.

    Thanks!

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  • LCHIEN
    replied
    I was using my lettering set from Rockler and was having a problem holding the narrow signs I was making.
    I thought of using a large wood handscrew clamp to hold it. I put the clamp flush on the table and secured the workpiece between the length of the jaws.
    This afforded me the ability to securely tape the template to the workpiece as the workpiece was narrower than the template.
    But I had trouble clamping the clamp itself to the table so it would not move as I routed. You need a clear flat space to run the router but the clamps would get in the way.

    So here was my solution, drill two 3/8" holes in the side of the handscrew clamp:
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    Handscrew clamps in place and the Rockler fence clamps:
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    Handscrew clamps clamped to the workbench with no protrusions above thanks to the blue fence clamps: Click image for larger version  Name:	20201229_103221sm.jpg Views:	0 Size:	88.8 KB ID:	841869

    Template taped to workpiece clamped in handscrew clamp and handscrew clamp clamped to benchtop: Click image for larger version  Name:	20201229_103609_001sm.jpg Views:	0 Size:	103.3 KB ID:	841866

    This was the 1.5" letter set on 2.5" wide wood, the 12" handscrew clamps can easily open to hold say 4" and the next larger size, 2.5" letters.
    Last edited by LCHIEN; 01-02-2021, 02:32 AM.

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  • LCHIEN
    replied
    Router safety/starting/fulcrum pin

    They are known by several names.
    See this thread for their use: https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...er-starter-pin
    Most router plates have either a 1/4" hole or a threaded hole 1/4-20 for a pin. If you don't have one you can buy them, but here I make my own. You can drill your router plate to take one if you need.

    Threaded one (this pin is actually made so it rotates)
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    Drilled hole only
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    Last edited by LCHIEN; 04-27-2021, 01:41 AM.

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  • dbhost
    replied
    So one of the big things i am dealing with is my shop is a terrible mess. While I have a hose reel mounted to the ceiling, but my synthetic hoses that I use to extend the air power out to the end of the driveway kept coming out of the place I had them stuffed and sprawling out across the floor. I opted for a simple C shape hook under my wall hung tool box. It's not pretty, but it IS effective.

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