Simple DIY shop made items for use in the shop. What have you made? Part II

[LCHIEN]

PDF file with detail plans how to make a couple of posts farther down (post #10)

[nicer20]

Oh I was thinking the same about the seriousness of this :-) :-)

[LCHIEN]

HF has a 24" for $14 and a 50 inch for $20

https://www.harborfreight.com/50-inch-clamp-and-cut-edge-guide-66581.html

Not used them but cheaper than Amazon or Rocker.

Clamped to the workpiece, They work great for router and or circular saw or jig saw straight cuts. Make good temporary router table and drill press table fences as well. Can even make a fence on your work table top. With no above the table protrusions to get in the way.
Some have guide base plates that slide on them that you attach saw or router for guided cuts that can't drift wide.

[LCHIEN]

Everyone here is getting too serious with this stuff.
I like to make things that are useful and not too complicated and require little measurements and skills. No plans or drawings are needed, just a sketch on the back of your hand with a ball point pen is ok. Sometimes the fit doesn’t have to be great and if it doesn’t slide together a couple of raps with the hammer makes it fit great. The locking fixture must be easily fitted, simply hog out a hole until if finds the mating hole in the other side, then beat a bolt through the hole. No finish is needed, just squirt some cheap caulk on to help weatherproof it and cover up the splinters!

I hope that's tongue in cheek.

For $16... one made of steel.

https://www.harborfreight.com/ball-mount-hitch-with-2-inch-drop-94902.html

[capncarl]

Everyone here is getting too serious with this stuff.
I like to make things that are useful and not too complicated and require little measurements and skills. No plans or drawings are needed, just a sketch on the back of your hand with a ball point pen is ok. Sometimes the fit doesn’t have to be great and if it doesn’t slide together a couple of raps with the hammer makes it fit great. The locking fixture must be easily fitted, simply hog out a hole until if finds the mating hole in the other side, then beat a bolt through the hole. No finish is needed, just squirt some cheap caulk on to help weatherproof it and cover up the splinters!

[leehljp]

I looked up the Milescraft template you mentioned.

One thing I am not clear is why they sell a template to make a box joint jig that then can be used to make a box joint? Can they not make a template that can be used as a jig directly? What am I missing here?

Thanks in advance.

NG

Several reasons:
1. The half template is cheaper than a full template, and with the template, several half or full width box joint or dove tail jigs can be made - over and over.

2. I don't do much but on occasion I need a good box joint, and am VERY careful, that said, I have read numerous times from professionals, it is a matter of time before a single slip of the router and a box joint or dove tail finger is messed up by the bit.

3. Full width aluminum box joint and dove tail jigs are expensive compared to the Milescraft.

After making those in the picts above, Peachtree Woodworking offered their Aluminum system for $99 and I jumped on it.

https://www.ptreeusa.com/rtr_jigs_dovetail_wiz.html

The Milescraft template was only $39.95 (IIRC) while almost every other aluminum was at least $140+ and more when I bought the Milescraft. So when the Peachtree jig came out at $99 for a few days in mid July, I jumped on it immediately. Now I have two sets. . . . I just have to find some time to use them now.

BTW, here is the link to the extras that I got with the $99. I don't think it can be bought for $99 now.

https://www.ptreeusa.com/edirect_071721_dove.htm

[nicer20]

Yes I agree about the hinges keeping the piece along the edge instead of loosing it or having to search for it. Just makes it quick to grab and set.

I will take a look at those clamps you sent. Had a quick look.

Thanks

[LCHIEN]

The only reason for the hinge is so it won't get lost? Just a strip of wood the right width can be set down and then removed will work next to any straight edge.

Have you seen these straight edge guide clamps that clamp to wide pieces and tables? https://aax-us-east.amazon-adsystem....3-935c7b59e870

https://www.amazon.com/Emerson-Tool-Contractor-Straight-Clamping/dp/B087YSD6BW/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=straight+edge+guide+clamp&qid=1634225066&sr=8-7

https://www.harborfreight.com/50-inch-clamp-and-cut-edge-guide-66581.html

[nicer20]

I was looking through my photos and found something else I made back in May or June and forgot to post: Dovetail and Box Joint Jigs




I used a MilesCraft template for that.

I looked up the Milescraft template you mentioned.

One thing I am not clear is why they sell a template to make a box joint jig that then can be used to make a box joint? Can they not make a template that can be used as a jig directly? What am I missing here?

Thanks in advance.

NG

[nicer20]

Loring you got it exactly right. That is how exactly it works.
And no the hinges don't obstruct. The router base is thin enough to pass below them.

[LCHIEN]

What, is the folding piece the width of half the router base? You lay down the jig along the line you want to groove and clamp then fold the narrow piece up and out of the way and run the router base along the exposed edge? Doesn't the hinges cause issues? So the resulting groove is centered on where the unfolded edge lay?

[nicer20]

Router Edge Guide

Made this simple one for my small handheld router. The small piece is cut to align with the center of the bit.

[nicer20]

Ok. Thanks for the insights. Added brad point bits to my ever growing shopping list :-)

[LCHIEN]

These bits I got for convenience in hand drills where I change back and forth quickly between sizes. Don't have to open or close chucks much to change. Also was planning to use in electric screwdriver but that's another story.

[LCHIEN]

I use 95% of the time a set of 7 brad point bits 1/8" to 1/2" I keep ready access to the drill press. see post 11 in https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...-have-you-made

And I have two sets of brad point bits by 1/64thy in my tool box next to the drill press for closer tolerance holes.

I also have all kinds of sets... the 115 piece set for precision holes and sets with normal twist bits in 118 and 135 degree tips.
But brad point for most wood working.