Simple DIY shop made items for use in the shop. What have you made? Part II

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  • #31
    Hank, 9/32" is a size just a hair larger than across the corners of the 1/4" hex bit (which is 1/4" across the flats). A 1/4" hex bit will NOT fit in a 1/4" diameter hole.
    That (9/32") not a snug fit but there's no slop. If you turn it over and shake it they will all fall out. If you don't shake I daresay most will fall out.

    Here's the dope: The geometry-based math says the distance across the flats is .250/Cos(30) which is .28865"
    Manufacturing being what it is there is probably some small radius on the corners.

    I measured a few just a minute ago and they run about .280-.285" probably because they break the sharp edge for that radius I mentioned.

    I suggested an Number series "L" bit at .290 will work. And a 9/32 is .2815" Remember it only touches at two or six points, not 100% of the circumference (like a round shank), so its not hard to get out even if its a pretty close fit. So I find 9/32 is quite good.



    I see I posted this project twice. Oh well. Getting forgetful.
    Last edited by LCHIEN; 09-07-2021, 03:15 PM.
    Loring in Katy, TX USA
    If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
    BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

    Comment


    • #32
      Originally posted by LCHIEN View Post
      Hank, 9/32" is a size just a hair larger than across the corners of the 1/4" hex bit (which is 1/4" across the flats). A 1/4" hex bit will NOT fit in a 1/4" diameter hole.
      That (9/32") not a snug fit but there's no slop. If you turn it over and shake it they will all fall out. If you don't shake I daresay most will fall out.

      Here's the dope: The geometry-based math says the distance across the flats is .250/Cos(30) which is .28865"
      I measured a few just a minute ago and they run about .280-.285" probably because they break the sharp edge.
      I suggested an Number series "L" bit at .290 will work. And a 9/32 is .2815" Remember it only touches at two or six points, not 100% of the circumference, so its not hard to get out even if its a pretty close fit. So I find 9/32 is quite good.

      I see I posted this project twice. Oh well. Getting forgetful.
      IF my chart is right:
      I see that a "K" letter bit is .281" which is a minuscule less than the 9/32 / .28125". I would like it a bit snug and will probably use soft pine instead of ungiving oak or maple.
      The letter J is .277"
      7mm is .2765"
      17/64" would be way to small at .265625"

      One reason that I am looking for snug is that I have had some holders in which bits are loose in the holes and they "jump" out at the least bump in a tool box for me.

      OH I just thought of something - I'll look up those foam rubber 1/4" router bit holders. That might work. Or drill the holes all the way through different thicknesses of wood and line the bottom with magnetic rubber strips to hold them in.

      Lots of ways to do that. I'll keep thinking about this. Thanks for getting me started!
      Hank Lee

      Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!

      Comment


      • #33
        Well, if you want it to fit that close then some experimentation is in order.. Good luck. I'm going to predict that they won't be that uniform in measurements across the points due to differing amounts of roundover radius used on the corners from bit to bit to maker to maker.


        Magnet idea sounds good. You can even fine tune the magnet strength with a thin layer of plastic on top of the magnet. the thicker the plastic the less holding strength.
        Last edited by LCHIEN; 09-15-2021, 02:47 AM.
        Loring in Katy, TX USA
        If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
        BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

        Comment


        • #34
          I like the router stand and the bit holder. I need 3 of the bit holders. One for screwdriver bits and to one each for 1/4" and 1/2" router bits.
          Don, aka Pappy,

          Wise men talk because they have something to say,
          Fools because they have to say something.
          Plato

          Comment


          • #35
            Pappy, I find for router bits I drill 1/64th over size to make a slip fit in wood. Like 17/64th for 1/4" shank bits and 33/64ths for 1/2" shanks. I had to buy a 33/64th bit but hey it was worth it; most all of the 64th increment bit sets stop at 1/2" exactly. Cost about $10 bucks but I've used it multiple times for slip fit to 1/2" items. Nothing like the right tool for the job.

            Last edited by LCHIEN; 09-07-2021, 03:11 PM.
            Loring in Katy, TX USA
            If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
            BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

            Comment


            • #36
              ROUTER BIT VISE

              I posted this before separately but its a handy shop jig that takes but a very short time to make. Its very handy for holding router bit securely while you sharpen them, clean them, or change bearings or do other services. Router bits are sharp and small little non-convenient things to hold securely and take a whole hand to do it. Easy to cut your hand while fumbling with them.

              My final version (instructions and plans downloadable PDFs) can be screwed to the bench, clamped, or held in a larger vise.

              I was inspired frankly by the $100 or so Woodpeckers bit vise and you have to buy separate ones for 1/2 and 1/4" shank bits.
              I didn't copy the little dish for holding parts... if you want one spend $3 at HF for their 4" magnetic parts holder dish. https://www.harborfreight.com/4-inch...c+parts+holder
              My design is
              Less than $1.00 in hardware costs with some scrap wood.
              Three ways to mount... screw holes, fence clamp hole, or F-clamp. The dowel bits on the bottom keep it from rotating when using a single clamp to hold it.


              Click image for larger version  Name:	fetch?id=785760.jpg Views:	0 Size:	74.6 KB ID:	845266

              Final version
              Click image for larger version  Name:	fetch?id=837078&d=1564038319.jpg Views:	0 Size:	124.5 KB ID:	845267

              detailed Plans and instructions:

              click on PDF files under attachments to download them.

              original thread https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...outer-bit-vise
              Attached Files
              Last edited by LCHIEN; 09-15-2021, 02:51 AM.
              Loring in Katy, TX USA
              If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
              BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

              Comment


              • nicer20
                nicer20 commented
                Editing a comment
                @LCHIEN: The links to PDF files aren't working. FYI - when you get a chance to fix them. Thanks in advance.

                CORRECTION: Links in the article don't work but those under the photos are working. Leaving the original comment in place so someone else finding it later knows how to access them.
                Last edited by nicer20; 09-12-2021, 08:24 PM.

              • nicer20
                nicer20 commented
                Editing a comment
                BTW another cool application of that Rockler clamp. I have bought the set. Thanks LCHIEN.

            • #37
              TALL RIP FENCE USING FENCE CLAMPS

              I posted this as a BT3000 jig idea, but it works for any brand of saw needing a tall rip fence for cutting the ends of taller objects on the table saw. Can also be used for a tall router fence attachment.
              I did this recently because its so much easier than the t-nut method of attachment.

              More construction details for BT3x00 specific saw at https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...tall-rip-fence
              To make it even easier, just use a 1-3/4" Diameter hole or larger instead of the oval cut. with the bottom of the hole located at about the fence height level. Distance from the ends is not critical, a few inches, I used 5". Trickiest part is drilling a 3/8" hole from the bottom edge well centered to the plywood and intersecting the large hole.

              Click image for larger version  Name:	P9120425.JPG Views:	5 Size:	150.5 KB ID:	845285 Click image for larger version  Name:	P9120426.JPG Views:	5 Size:	157.5 KB ID:	845286 Click image for larger version  Name:	P9120422.JPG Views:	5 Size:	172.4 KB ID:	845287 Click image for larger version  Name:	P9120424.JPG Views:	5 Size:	118.9 KB ID:	845288
              Attached Files
              Last edited by LCHIEN; 09-16-2021, 10:48 AM.
              Loring in Katy, TX USA
              If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
              BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

              Comment


              • #38
                Longer Crosscut Fence

                Here is a long crosscut fence I made - nothing as genius as Loring and others. But using similar ideas from you all. Especially used the Rockler clamps.

                Added sandpaper on the face to prevent the stock from sliding.

                One note - I thought using a taller than stock fence is better. It turned out I had to create notches on the back side for the Rockler clamps to sink in all the way and get flush with the main aluminum fence. Without those notches the fence was lifting at the bottom when I tightened the clamps.
                Attached Files

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                • LCHIEN
                  LCHIEN commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Way to go!

              • #39
                Corner Clamping Set

                Also built these for helping me with assembly. Again not my design but saw it on Pinterest.

                The inside cuts are a little bit slanted as I used jigsaw and the blade probably bent. I am planning to use router with a straight bit and a guide to clean it up and make it straight. That way I think they will stay true when clamped to workpieces.
                Attached Files

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                • #40
                  I was looking through my photos and found something else I made back in May or June and forgot to post: Dovetail and Box Joint Jigs

                  Click image for larger version  Name:	Dovetail and Boxjoint 2.jpeg Views:	0 Size:	132.9 KB ID:	845449
                  Click image for larger version  Name:	Dovetail and Box Joint.jpeg Views:	0 Size:	132.3 KB ID:	845450

                  I used a MilesCraft template for that.
                  Hank Lee

                  Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!

                  Comment

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