Getting my shop back together...

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  • JimD
    Veteran Member
    • Feb 2003
    • 4187
    • Lexington, SC.

    #31
    The mud sold dry is plaster of paris based. It dries by chemical action rather than evaporation. I don't know how temperature affects it but the bag should say. It probably has to be somewhat warm to harden.

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    • dbhost
      Slow and steady
      • Apr 2008
      • 9209
      • League City, Texas
      • Ryobi BT3100

      #32
      Well, I got the dips and swells filled / sanded for the most part last night. The mud around the sub panel is still quite wet, I will let that set for a couple of days before I move forward in that section...

      I rolled on a second coat to the first 2/3 of the wall, and then rolled a coat of paint on the back wall of the niche, and the side wall until the paint ran out.

      Went out to look this morning, and the wall where the 2nd coat is already on looks great! Ready to "move in" as it were... The rest, well needs more massaging...

      Mud needs to dry, and my aching back needs a break, so I am hanging it up until at least Friday when I will finish sanding around the panel, wipe it all down again and finish painting the side wall, then slap a second coat on the remaining 3rd of the new wall, the back and side walls. Once satisfied with the paint, and it is dried up enough, I will reinstall the outlet covers, then start moving things back to where they belong. And then the fun with expanding foam starts!

      I am not sure about the opposing wall at this time. I do NOT want to go through another year of tear down, and rebuild, not to mention aside from one spot that needs to be patched, the drywall on that side is good, so I was hoping to be able to fill the existing wall cavities with insulation. Not really sure how to approach this. Expanding foam is awfully expensive for this application, but might be my best option. I really just want to get it good and insulated, patch any holes, paint it, and be done.
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      • dbhost
        Slow and steady
        • Apr 2008
        • 9209
        • League City, Texas
        • Ryobi BT3100

        #33
        It was a major undertaking to get them emptied, put up, and reorganized, it is amazing how much old stuff I forgot I had in those parts bins!

        Anyway, last night saw me getting the hanging tool cabinets hung, and what I am hoping is the final skim layer of mud to smooth out a few air bubbles I managed to sand through last night put on the remaining hunk of wall. It is a very thin application. I am going to be busy tonight taking LOML out on a date night, tomorrow during the day we are busy, so thank God for the long weekend. I will be finishing the back part of the wall / painting when I un-busy tomorrow, and then the face plates on that side get reinstalled and the rest of the stuff starts getting moved.



        I will start of with moving the remaining sheet of drywall (I bought a spare in case I REALLY managed to mess it up, and I still need to do the stub wall so it won't remain intact for much longer...). Mostly get it out of the way, then I...
        #1. Move the mechanical toolbox back into place. The floor jack, ball joint press, ball joint press cup kit, and manifold gauge set go between the box and the wall. There was a gap forced on me by outlet location for the compressor / DC.
        #2. Move the lathe and its stuff into place.
        #3. Clear the table saw and workbench off.
        #4. Measure both the DC and DC stand. IF I have the room to cut, slice off 2" from the stand, and cut / install 2x4 braces on the legs across 3 sides leaving the "front" open to wheel the little compressor in / out.
        #5. Put DC stand, DC, and Thien separator in place.
        #6. Move tool stacker system.
        #7. Cut mount board for, and mount scroll saw on mount board. Add to tool stacker system.
        #8. Move band saw, and drill press back into place.
        #9. This is temporary until I build a better system, possibly with more shelving standards etc... But using simple shelf braces, install basic plywood shelf over the RO tank with sufficient space to remove RO control unit hood beneath the shelf. And add a second matching shelf 12" above that. This will hold my misc handheld power tools that are overflow from the miter saw bench, and accessories...
        #10, clean, clean, clean...
        Please like and subscribe to my YouTube channel. Please check out and subscribe to my Workshop Blog.

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