Wall cabinets on french cleats?

[dlminehart]

I'm looking to build some wall cabinets for my garage "shop". Probably have two double-doored cabinets separated by some open-fronted shelves or perf board. I want to keep things flexible by using french cleats on the entire wall, so I can move the cabinets around if I want, or add another cabinet, or put clamp storage, or whatever.

I've heard some folks use 2x4s for the cleats, others use 1x4s. I suspect these cabinets will hold considerable weight, so maybe I have to use 2x4s . . . but perhaps 2 sets of 1x4s about 18 inches apart?

My main reason for hoping 1x4s would suffice is that I'd rather not have to notch the sides of the cabinets to allow for continuous cleats on the walls. Since the 1x4 is only 0.75" thick, I'd be willing to just have the cabinet standing off from the wall that much. But a 2x4, with its 1.5" standoff, would be too much, and I'd be stuck with notching.

How have others handled this? Anyone have any inexpensive alternatives to suggest?

[Scottydont]

For cleats rather than 2x4's I would do 3/4" Oak or Hard Maple. If any place is gonna fail it will be were your cleats are screwed to the studs or on the angle of the cleat where most of the pressure is. I think Oak or Hard Maple would be stronger and look less bulky and class up the shop a bit. I am one of those people that rearranges my office and shop at least every 6 months. I have been wanting to do the french cleat thing in my shop too.

As an alternative, Rockler has Z clips for hanging cabinets

http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?&sku=10231&cs=1

or these steel cleats

http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?&sku=347&cs=1

[RayintheUK]

David,

Here's how I handle it:



The back of the cabinet sits in dados all round, set in from the back by 3/4". I use a 4" x 3/4" board which is inset in the recess. This gives the option of side fixing screws for added security, as shown. The cleat is glued and fixed through the back with as many screws as seems appropriate for the width. For larger cabinets, or extreme payload, I repeat the cleat near the bottom (dead measurement sorts out the wall fixing). HTH

Ray.

[dlminehart]

Ray, it looks like your wall portion of the cleat is thus discontinuous, i.e., not extending past the sides of the cabinet. That's what I'm trying to avoid, in order to allow me to change the cabinet layout.

[gmack5]

If you were to put up your wall cleats in small sections, say 18", across pairs of wall studs with a gap between that would accomodate the sides of your cabinets, you would still be able to move your cabinets incrementally.
Not totally flexible but better than having to put up continous cleating. This might work, depending on the width of your cabinets.

[DaveS]

I wasn't sure about this either. I used 1x4 pine. I lined both walls with a continous cleat. I put in 2 - 4" screws (pre-drilled) into every stud. I was worried about how much weight these could carry, but they are plenty strong. I can do chin ups (although, not very many, gettin' old and fat, ya know) on them without a creak.

The disadvantage of hanging the cabinets this way is that you have a 3/4" space behind each cabinet that is viewable from the side. Also, you have to attach a block to the bottom of the cabinets as well - if you recess the cleats, you don't have to put the spacers on the bottom. I have a couple cabinets that are quite big, so I shot a screw into the bottom spacer blocks on the bottom into the studs. Everything is still moveable, I just have to back out those few "safety" screws.

The advantage is that I can move the cabinets anywhere I want - easily take one down and replace it with a new one (these old cabinets from my in-law's 1967 kitchen are mighty nice though). Also, the spare cleat space comes in handy for hanging all kinds of things - a piece of pegboard, large jigs, a clamp rack, whatever.

Of course, since the cleats are "French", they are likely to give up at the first sign of a struggle... (oh come on, it's just a joke).

Here's a picture of how the gap looks with 1x4's so you can determine if that is ok for your application. (yes, I know I said I put in 2 screws in each stud, but I was one short due to stupidty).

[Scottydont]

Hey Dave, When get around to putting in that last screw, take off the SKU sticker on the end of the board. Geez!

(Like I should talk. My kids play fort is loaded with 'em!) [)]

[jnesmith]

I use french cleats for my shop cabinets. Here's a pic of one.



I set the back, and then the cleat, in dados pretty much as Ray describes.

Mine sit flush to the wall.



I think if you want a lot of flexibility to move the cabs around, you probably will be better off not trying to set them flush to the wall.

[bmyers]

Does he mean "freedom cleats"? [:O]

Bill

[tribalwind]

i made a clothes rack wiht a french cleat way back . although the full length functions more for aesthetics than support i guess..the real support is mostly just where the sides meet the wall.. i notched..
the top part has a shelf/cubbyholes that extend to ceiling now.

[meika123]

Some time ago, I built a large over-the-commode cabinet for my daughters bath room. I built it from 3/4" Birch plywood, so it was quite heavy. I installed it on a "French Cleat", and it has been there for several years with no problem. Made the cleat from the same 3/4" Birch plywood. No problem.

Dave in NC