Shop Finishing

[dlminehart]

The wiring within the wall can be largely protected if you put the metal protection plates (sold where you get your wiring boxes) over the studs in front of the wiring holes. These plates are dirt cheap and have built-in "nails" so they're a snap to install.

GFCI is a good idea (code for non-stationary device use in a garage, for instance), but it can be done at the panel (if near the work area, so it's easy to reset if necessary) or at the first receptacle in a given circuit within the shop. Not necessary to put it on every receptacle, as it protects everything from the receptacle in question on down the circuit.

[lrogers]

I ran my electrical wiring though the studs, split the insullation so that it "flowed" around the wires and used the blue boxes as well. I sheathed the walls from the ceiling down to the 3' level with pre-painted perf board (called garage board at the BORG). The lower section was cover by a combination of hardboard and ply. All my out lets were placed at the 4' level, very easy to get to.

[BobSch]

quote:Originally posted by dlminehart

The wiring within the wall can be largely protected if you put the metal protection plates (sold where you get your wiring boxes) over the studs in front of the wiring holes. These plates are dirt cheap and have built-in "nails" so they're a snap to install.

GFCI is a good idea (code for non-stationary device use in a garage, for instance), but it can be done at the panel (if near the work area, so it's easy to reset if necessary) or at the first receptacle in a given circuit within the shop. Not necessary to put it on every receptacle, as it protects everything from the receptacle in question on down the circuit.

Around here the plates are required by code. Also GFCIs are required for any garage outlets. I'm planning on putting a sub panel in the garage and all the breakers will be GFCIs, that way I can use standard outlets.

[doctordremel]

I've been thinking about doing drywall laid horizontal and then white melimine pegborad and a slatwall above that all aound the shop walls. I figure I can hang cabinets on the peg or slatwall.

[Jim Boyd]

I would suggest doing the ceiling first. you will get the most benefit from it over doing the walls, not to mention that it requires the most moving around of things already in the shop. Especially this time of year remember heat rises. My wiring was already run so it is in the walls. I have an outlet every 5' and sometimes would like more. I also like the six in the ceiling. I went with 1/2" sheathing ply for the first 4" of wall and white pegboard to the ceiling.

[dlminehart]

Re GFCIs: I found that my garage door opener (Genie Excelerator model) tripped the GFCI. Had to plug the opener into a non-GFCI receptacle (one my fluorescents were on). Turns out there's a capacitor in the opener that looks to the GFCI like a current leak, or some such thing.

[gerti]

quote:Originally posted by dlminehart

Re GFCIs: I found that my garage door opener (Genie Excelerator model) tripped the GFCI. Had to plug the opener into a non-GFCI receptacle (one my fluorescents were on). Turns out there's a capacitor in the opener that looks to the GFCI like a current leak, or some such thing.

A tripping GFCI always indicates a problem. When it trips it means current flows to the ground. Nothing 'normal' should ever cause this. I just plugged my Genie Excelerator into a GFCI and it operates fine.

Gerd

[gdog]

Well, I have got a lot of good info and ideas. Thanks to all of you. I believe I will go with some paneling. I thought about dry wall, but don't want to worry about knocking holes in it. The beaded ply is nice, but not in my budget. Lowes has some tileboard that I am going to use for the ceiling. My father in law is going to get the wiring supplies for me at his electrical store. The floor is treated plywood, no need to do anything to it.

[dlminehart]

Gerd, the capacitor problem was what Genie tech support told me. Not present with all their models. And I think the story with GFCI is that it compares current flows between hot and neutral and if the difference is more than .005 amps over time y, it assumes there's a leak and trips. Apparently a capacitor filling can look like a leak to ground.

Here's a quote from a spa company: "Other electrical devices in your home, especially those with motors, can send a pulse through the circuit that can actually trigger a GFCI to trip. These include washing machines, garage door openers, air conditioners, furnaces, and house fans. "

Another source: "Refrigerators, freezers, dehumidifiers or garage door openers plugged into the basement or garage outlets are often the cause of the [tripping] problem. These devices are not meant to be plugged into a GFCI circuit and will eventually cause the GFCI to trip."

[gerti]

Thanks for the info, David!