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Pegboard door/stud space cabinets

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  • Pegboard door/stud space cabinets

    I finally got around to doing some better pegboard storage for my shop/shed this weekend. I used to have most of a wall of my 10x12 shop/shed covered in pegboard. One end of the board was holding a lot of unnecessary stuff.

    The construction was fairly simple. Basically an 8’x2’ face frame with pegboard doors on 1/2” overlay hinges. The door frames are 3/4”x1” oak with a 1/2" rabbit for a 1/8” pegboard panel. The panels have a 1/2" gap inside so things can be hung on both sides of the door. I spaced the frame and doors to line up with the 24 OC spaced studs as best I could. The studs weren’t exactly spaced even, nor plumb.

    I planned to do 2 1/2" wide stile on the face frame, but I didn’t have enough stock that wide. So I had another not so bright idea during construction. Just do it all out of the 3/4"x1-1/2” stock I had on hand, and don’t worry about the studs not being exactly square to the openings. It also made the doors 1” wider. I realized there was a **** good reason I initially designed a wider frame stile when I was putting on the doors. I ended up with a 1/16” clearance between the door and the next hinge. I measured the hinges and calculated for the 7/16” exposed hinge the night before, but I must have forgotten about it while I slept.

    I plan to add some shallow shelves to the inside space on one, pegboard back on a couple more and possibly dedicate one to router bit storage.
    Attached Files
    Erik

  • #2
    Man, between you and Pappy, y'all are doing Texas proud!

    Seeing that C-man 21829 folded up and out of the way like that is helping me make up my mind on what TS I want in my shop next. I would love a cast iron topped TS, but space is an issue. Norm Abram be darned. The BT3x00 and the C-man 21829 sure are solid saws, and that folding feature will save my bacon space wise...

    If I had the yard space to do it, I would go with the layout you guys are doing, basically running a shop out of a shed. I know my wife would be happier with that... But for now, too many other projects, and nowhere near enough land unless I want to put a shed in the front yard. (My yard layout is really stupid!).

    As soon as the housing market springs back, we are going to try to unload this house and get a place with more land. Until then it is home improvement projects to try to bring up the value of this house...

    Not sure what lumber that was you were using for that. But if pine is okay for that sort of project, I noticed you had a Dewalt planer there, you might consider planing down some 2x4 southern yellow pine studs that can be had cheap / free depending on the contractors working near you. I literally picked up 30 perfectly good 2x4 8 foot SYP studs from a contractor while they were cleaning up a site they had just finished. Said it would cost him more in labor to move them to the next site than it was worth...

    Anyway, if you can grab some 2x4s and plane them down to where you need them, you can get some decent enough lumber for the task... Just sayin' since you mentioned you were working with lumber that was too narrow for your design...
    Last edited by dbhost; 06-23-2008, 03:28 PM.
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    • #3
      I'll open by confessing that I'm not a fan of pegboard. I don't like the look, even when painted; and while I know there are hooks that anchor so they don't fall out every time you reach for a tool, I still have just never cared for the approach of using pegboard and hooks for tool storage.

      But with that said, yours is a great concept that I predict will be widely copied. In exchange for a little more expense and work than simply mounting the pegboard to the wall, you have access to a lot of space between the studs that otherwise would have been completely wasted. Nice!
      Larry

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      • #4
        Great way to recover some unused space!
        Don, aka Pappy,

        Wise men talk because they have something to say,
        Fools because they have to say something.
        Plato

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        • #5
          did you build these frames from any specific plan? if so, where can I get it.

          Dan

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          • #6
            That is a great idea and a nice way to recover the space between the studs. I wish I'd thought of that when I had my 10x12 shed that was my first shop. I had pegboard, but not between the studs.
            David

            The chief cause of failure in this life is giving up what you want most for what you want at the moment.

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            • #7
              That's nice. Excellent use of space.

              Ed
              Do you know about kickback? Ray has a good writeup here... https://www.sawdustzone.org/articles...mare-explained

              For a kickback demonstration video http://www.metacafe.com/watch/910584...demonstration/

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              • #8
                I am planning on adapting that idea to be something that I can take with me when I leave this house and get another, probably smaller space

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by pierhogunn2 View Post
                  did you build these frames from any specific plan? if so, where can I get it.

                  Dan
                  I can't remember what mag I got the idea from offhand. I'll try to find the article when I get back home. I think it was a popular woodworking article.
                  Erik

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                  • #10
                    you sir, rock.

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                    • #11
                      I found it in Shopnotes' 'Small Shop Solutions'. It's probably in a regular issue too. There are a couple different types of pegboard designs.

                      The shopnotes version uses a couple doors, but I didn't want a cabinet that extended from the wall much.
                      Erik

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                      • #12
                        Wow - I knew you could store the 21829 folded up but had no clue that you could store it with extra rails, tables, and router all attached. Is the leg on the far right of the table a saw-specific accessory or something you made?

                        A bit more on-topic, how heavy-duty hinges are you using? Did you use a latch that supports weight on the open side of the door or just holds the door shut? Looks like you'll have a fair amount of weight once you hang up all those tools.

                        Reason I ask is that I've been thinking of putting some 16"-24" deep shelves to hold relatively seldom-used stuff on the wall where I now have a 3' or so span of 1/4" pegboard, but have been reluctant to lose my pegboard space. Your setup seems like it'd work great.

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                        • #13
                          I used three self closing overlay hinges from HD, much like these from Lee Valley http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/pa...42&cat=3,41241

                          I went with those because they were easy to install. I didn't have to mortise anything and I didn't need a latch. There's a little bit of sag on the fully loaded doors, maybe 1/4", if even that much.

                          On the saw: That's about the max size that I can do. I've got the 0 on the rail tape set 10" to the left of the blade. If it was further the rails will hit the ground when folding. I might get another inch, but leaving it at 10" makes using the tape with my fence easy. The extensions are half rails. Any longer and it wouldn't be easy for me to move, as the end is just a couple inches from my chin when I've got my hands on the handles.

                          I usually take the lift out now. One has to always remember to lock the rip fence across the router when in the vertical position. (It sure does suck when you don't ) I bolted my MDF router fence to the second rip fence I bought and it unbalanced the saw when upright.

                          The leg under the router extension is part of a $10 roller stand. I just unbolted the roller top and the short leg from it. It quickly bolts to the cross member that is attached to the bottom of the two rails. The saw would tip about the wheels when any extra downforce was added to the end.

                          Thare's some more on my extension here: http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=37992
                          Last edited by pelligrini; 09-24-2009, 02:35 PM.
                          Erik

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                          • #14
                            how would you overcome the sag on a full loaded door? internal bracing, extra hinges?

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                            • #15
                              Probably extra hinges if I wanted. The sag isn't too bad, and only happened more than I wanted when I really loaded it with several planes. Most of the doors have less than 1/8" sag, because there is less than 1/8" between the outside door edge and the barrel of the hinge for the next door.

                              I thought about using a piano hinge and a one self closing in the initial design, but I was having a tough time with the different pivot points. The shopnotes version uses shop made piviots at the top and bottom corners.
                              Erik

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