Picked up some lock miter router bits and setup bar for a project...

[dbhost]

My living room ceiling has an exposed ridge beam to the cathedral ceiling, and I HATE it... Particularly the sheet rock covering.

My late wife and I have for years wanted to cover it with a wooden cover but... well blame Facebook ads for giving me the idea...

I picked up some admittedly cheap lock miter router bits in 1/2" shank off of Amazon. My cheapness won out over loyalty to MLCS particularly after the buyout / merger with HValley Tools...

https://amzn.to/4dyVjXx

Picked up one for 1/2" stock and one for 3/4" stock both with 1/2" shank...

Now the tricky part, Running this on long stock that is itself going to be run opposing end to end to get a sort of continuous piece effect... Going to have to rig up some manner of router table I can set up in the driveway...

[twistsol]

A fence on the router itself may work better. I've found that running really long pieces through the router table tends to be problematic particularily if the piece is bowed or warped at all.

[dbhost]

I might have to do that. Has me somewhat regretting not buying the ones for 1/4" collet though, this would be a perfect application for my trim router...

[LCHIEN]

I have looked at those lock miter bits for quite some time and I actually have one-but never used it.
The problems I always saw were that it would take some time to set up unless you had setup blocks (which you do) and the stock was exactly the same thickness as the setup blocks were intended for... exactly 0.750" thick. Any other thickness - plan on a lot of trial and error.

The other thing that bothered me was, well lets say you are joining two 1x4 boards.
One board (A) you will lay flat on the router table with the narrow edge against the fence. and the other board (B) you will have standing on edge on the router table with the wide side against the fence. When you run A you will end up with a very thin knife edge running against the fence as you end the cut. THen when running B you end up with a knife edge running against the table.

Its a problem with those knife edge when you reach the end of the cut. If you use it for short length bevels, like a box just 3 inches high, then its unmanageable because the lengths are too short to rely on using the knife edge against the fence or table - too easy to dent the edge and lose control. Anyway, it made me nervous.




One thing I might consider is double stick taping a auxiliary piece to the edge of the part that will become knife edge to support it as it goes through... that will ride against the fence or table solidly.

[LCHIEN]

...

I picked up some admittedly cheap lock miter router bits in 1/2" shank off of Amazon. My cheapness won out over loyalty to MLCS particularly after the buyout / merger with HValley Tools...

https://amzn.to/4dyVjXx

.....

MLCS biggest casualty when they became HValley was free shipping.
A $10 or 15 bit becomes a lot more expensive when it costs you $6 to 10 shipping. Even if it takes a week.

Amazon's 2-day shipping I've already paid for so any add'l order is free shipping for me, and their prices are more than competitive BUT you have third party suppliers so the quality is potentially more variable. So far I have had reasonable success with Yonico bits from Amazon, at least for limited use.

[LCHIEN]

Looked for my miter lock bit - couldn't find it. Will look again tomorrow.