corner treatment for box/tool case

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  • leehljp
    replied
    Super glue tends to do better on porous /soft woods where they can soak into the fibers. On smooth/hard woods and situations it becomes iffy - in some situations with smooth surfaces. it is fine if there are not jolts or long term vibrations. In the pen world, many people believe in Super Glue for bonding tubes into woods and cast/acrylic type material. It works Ok but there are more blowouts with the superglue when turning on the lathe than with epoxy or polyurethane/gorilla (expanding type) glue. There is a reason for that and it becomes evident when the blowout occurs. Most Superglues are more brittle than epoxies and poly glues.

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  • dbhost
    commented on 's reply
    In my experience, super glue is anything but. The joints tend to be failure prone. Maybe I am using it wrong but I have come to not trust the stuff.

  • LCHIEN
    replied
    What's wrong with CA superglue? Small bits and pieces, no large glue-up. Instant, no clamping required. Very strong (at least in my experience) on wood.
    not like I needed working time to get alignment nudges and no real strength requirements but I did want to last longer than pressure adhesives on rubber bumpers.

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    Last edited by LCHIEN; 06-03-2024, 03:58 AM.

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  • dbhost
    replied
    Just now seeing this thread. An interesting solution. I have been using the small tool bags from Harbor Freight for the stuff I get that doesn't have cases. I might just have to make a few of these down the road here. Always fighting with organizing the shop...

    Not sure about the SuperGlue approach though. Proper regular wood glue might have been a better option.

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  • LCHIEN
    commented on 's reply
    glue on feet are OK for some things, but I always question their permanence.

  • leehljp
    replied
    I missed this earlier this week. I was about to recommend something similar in function to what you already have : Stick on feet

    https://www.amazon.com/Soft-Touch-Round-Dampening-Cabinet/dp/B001WAK6DS/ref=sr_1_7?crid=1CCBQ5BDDQ8BF&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.9HF LyqmYngkxAkLT7C9MtrGZ7O_ob32AHJCJUzHKW5s5i0LpIrz-d_ykT5SH7HRl0OLQzwQFnPXSrKAyKgGMd9SglVVVSy0VcCmTht 3QqpFn-9PwDI-KwesowUGEWRZEHYSpWn9jL19KC_RKzXpPyffAA8zka2Tcj-eecFVPAoRpYJFLUWpxiGMhg8NtjP1sR6xR_qBnoy-xwQvbsyErgSWTxdM9dUQf4ESU39-ErTJwNIexUCoz389wyY_tdxDESUfZI_7p1recb-jmAXMfQ7zUb9oSCDW0jpYaP8NnlQ8.hSdrisZAKoi0SzIWfQLA 6l8_zlXqTWrUDa--R1YWe_4&dib_tag=se&keywords=self%2Bstick%2Bround%2 Bfurniture%2Bfeet%2Bpads&qid=1717287006&sprefix=se lf%2Bstick%2Bround%2Bfurniture%2Bfeet%2Bpads%2Caps %2C196&sr=8-7&th=1
    Last edited by leehljp; 06-02-2024, 06:32 PM.

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  • LCHIEN
    replied
    Decided to go simple and cheap, just superglued some wooden feet to keep the hinge barrels off the table or floor. One in the middle to protect the middle hinge barrel.
    Click image for larger version

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    The case won't open 180 degrees like MPC predicted but I didn't want it to.
    I put this opening stopper in (20# 7-strand flexible steel wire with crimps):
    Click image for larger version

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  • LCHIEN
    commented on 's reply
    Yeah I don't need the box to open 180°, in fact I was considering adding a wire stop at about 100 degrees.

    I looked up SOSS hinges... Looks like it comes at a cost of interior space... OK for a cabinet but less so for a small box. Cool though, I did not know about them Thanks for the reference.

  • mpc
    replied
    Whatever you use cannot be taller/thicker than the hinge barrel protrusion... otherwise they'd keep the top from opening all the way. If not opening 180 degrees is actually a problem. If that isn't a problem, the clear plastic corner protectors seem like they'd be the best at protecting tables.

    Hidden "SOSS" style hinges would have been a method to avoid this problem if the back panel thickness is sufficient for such hinges.

    Nice looking box though.

    mpc

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  • LCHIEN
    started a topic corner treatment for box/tool case

    corner treatment for box/tool case

    Made this box for my new Kreg KPHJ720 jig kit because the carboard box didn't seem like a long term solution.

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    Its fairly heavy (12 pounds). The thing about is that the hinges stick out the bottom which means it won't stand stably but it rocks and the hinges scratch up the table.

    I am considering four alternatives... three of them corner treatments that would also space it off the hinges when standing
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    two of those are metal corners and one is a stick on corner protector I think marketed for protecting kids from table ad furniture corners. I'm more into protecting my bench and tables than protecting the box, actually. The metal ones require fasteners; that may be a problem because the sides of my box are 1/4" plywood too thin for nails. OTOH maybe just two nails will hold them? Also, will the fastener heads protrude and end up scratching the table? Maybe just superglue them on?

    My fourth option is simply put some feet on the bottom side where the hinges are... say gluing four 3/16" thick pads of wood to the four corners to set upon as feet when upright. Or alternately some rubber or plastic stick on feet or maybe screw on feet.

    comments and thoughts? Oh, here's the inside:

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    Last edited by LCHIEN; 05-26-2024, 09:40 PM.
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