Glue Squeeze Out …..Problem Solved!

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  • Glue Squeeze Out …..Problem Solved!

    I’ve been plagued with glue squeeze out with the building of my Tiny Trees. When attaching the legs to the aprons I always have glue squeeze out. These are floating tennon joinery using an 8 or 10 mm Festool Domino. At this point all of my wood is already sanded to 800 of 1000 and will be stained or just paste waxed after gluing so glue squeeze out is a problem. This just is not an application where I can scrape or cut it off…. It will ruin the finish. I’ve googled it until I have worn the keys off my iPad and haven’t found a suitable answer for the problem. So…. I always put a slight bevel on each domino end to make it go in the hole easier. About half way through this batch of 6 tables I decided to instead of putting the bevel on the dominos to put the bevel on the domino hole. I always have a Dremmel tool with a 1/4” sanding drum handy so I just gave each hole a couple of swipes to cut in about 1/8” bevel and the dim light went off in my head. Now when I’m assembling the tables and put a thin coat of glue on the domino the glue buildup stays in the void created by the bevel rather than squeezing out. I finished the tables with no squeeze out and a big smile on my face!

    This additional 10 second to cut bevel should also work on dowels and regular mortise and tenons.

  • #2
    Thanks for posting this. I'm going to have to try it. I have the same problem with cabinet face frames and end up with glue on the inside corners where it is next to impossible to wipe, sand or scrape away cleanly.
    An ethical man knows the right thing to do.
    A moral man does it.


    • #3
      Sometimes the solution is just take a few minutes and try something different.

      In making pens with segments of different colored woods and some brass or aluminum between the segments of wood, . . . - for ages everyone said "use an eraser" or "use denatured alcohol and a clean rag" but those did not do it to my satisfaction. Sanding dust contaminated the different woods. Impossible to clean perfectly.

      Then one day, having had a tad of experience with wood scrapers and how smooth they finished some woods, I decided to spend an hour honing my scraper to its maximum sharpness. Then I turned my lathe to its max rpm. Light touch to the segmented blank from end to end - and NO SANDING DUST what so ever. Plus, the blank was as smooth as a baby's bottom, so to speak at least as smooth as 600 grit sandpaper. After I posted that finding on the pen forum, a couple of old timers said that is what they did. I asked why they didn't say anything in all of those times people complained about dust contamination! Their reply was that most people wouldn't believe it.

      I appreciate it when people give easily solved answers to complicated problems.

      Capncarl, I will keep this in mind when I have problems with joints of different kinds in the future - flat ends keep the glue inside. Thanks.
      Last edited by leehljp; 12-01-2022, 05:37 PM.
      Hank Lee

      Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!


      • capncarl
        capncarl commented
        Editing a comment
        It must not really take much glue to hold a joint together! The problem with using dominos is they fit so precise that when coated with glue it gets scraped off during assembly. The domino has indentations and flutes cut in it so a little bit of glue will be retained and stuck the pieces together. I feel better when it looks like more glue gets inside the joint. Now if you get a really good and tight mortise and tenon joint like seen on Utube…. There is no way enough glue gets between the mortise and tenon to even taste! Must be enough though…..

        I’m calling conspiracy on the glue manufacturers who want us to mop on glue like fast food restaurants do with mayonnaise! A pint bottle should last us a lifetime!

      • leehljp
        leehljp commented
        Editing a comment
        LOL - I agree with the "mayonnaise" comment. Mayonnaise and glue, both used tooooo much!

    • #4
      I wonder if swell-lock would be helpful for this problem. It’s kinda pricey, but the formula is basically 3 parts dipropylene glycol and 1 part water. It locks the joint by swelling the wood permanently. I use it to lock my axe heads on the handles and to fix creaky chairs.


      • capncarl
        capncarl commented
        Editing a comment
        Swell lock would probably work just as good. Most all of my Tiny Tables are sold in an art gallery in Appalachicola Fla and I don’t want to risk any joint failures. I will try it on something that I build for myself and test it out.

        If tightened up ax and hammer handles by soaking them overnight in water. What does the dipropylene do?

    • #5
      The dipropylene glycol (dpg) is the main/active ingredient in swell lock. Based on an msds for swell lock it appears the formula is roughly 3 parts dpg to 1 part water. Instead of paying a fairly high price for the name brand, I just buy dpg and add the appropriate amount of distilled water.


      • #6
        This is just what I was looking for. Thank you so much for posting.