What's on your 2022 To Do List?

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  • What's on your 2022 To Do List?

    Here is mine, what's on yours?

    This year on the To Do list
    • Build 6 base cabinets and 9 bookcases for my office
    • Build a desk for my office
    • Build a printer / tv stand for my office.
    • Build a rocking horse for my granddaughter.
    Shop projects
    • Build some sort of contained portable spray booth. I tried the Rockler large home right spray shelter and spent days cleaning up the overspray dust
    • Build a cart to keep my HVLP turbine, guns and accessories contained.
    • Redesign/rebuild the sagging sheet goods storage in the shop
    Chr's
    __________
    An ethical man knows the right thing to do.
    A moral man does it.

  • #2
    I have shop projects that NEED to get done prior to me being able to continue / finish actual project projects...

    So shop projects left for 2022:
    1. Finish building the drawers for miter saw bench. This will provide storage space for a LARGE amount of small items.
    2. Remove the former over the 55 gallon drum separator shelf.
    3. Cut down above the toolbox vaccum shelf. Size this for boxed auto repair tools. Install pull out former separator shelf cut down. Move boxed automotive tools, jacks stands here...The vac and trash can separator to live under the table saw.
    4. Build "rails" to support slides for wide drawer for table saw storage to hold table saw accessories under table saw extension wing.
    5. Finish shop cleanup. Getting there quickly, but it is still nasty.
    6. Finish straightening out / rerouting DC ducting lower run.
    7. Convert the T12 shoplight fixtures to ballast bypass double ended LED bulbs.
    8. Build a drill press storage cabinet / Fix the configuration of the mobile base of the drill press I.E. build a lateral base between the metal of 2x6s instead of screwing the shorter 2x6s to the square wood stock... I hate that bowing!
    9. Install the Urethane bandsaw tires.
    10. Build the lathe storage cabinet box, and the ballast box. Install them.I might just opt for heavy duty levellers instead of a mobile base. I only need to scoot the lathe every so often to clean behind it...
    Home projects to do for 2022.
    1. Finish sanding and smoothing drywall in master bath dressing room and master closet. Get RID of that popcorn texture.
    2. Cedar line master closet.
    3. Build new full depth shelves for master bath linen closet, bullnose the faces.
    4. Pull stored items from home office / studio closet, and cut access for guest bath faucet and drain. Replace tub drain, replace faucet. The faucet drips, and is kind of tweaked. The drain broke when I was trying to replace the trim. I MAY farm this out as this is WAY more digging under I want to do...
    5. Build mission style doors, and drawer fronts for the kitchen, and both bathrooms. Reface the cabinets.
    6. Eat up scrap / cutoffs by making a butcher block / charcuterie board. Not that I need one, probably just build one as a gift for family members.
    7. Evaporust the cast iron garden bench ends. Fully clean it up, epoxy prime, and paint them. Get them REALLY well...
    8. IF I can get lucky enough to source up affordable Teak, machine up Teak slats for the bench, and finish rebuilding the bench. Set it under the magnolia tree in the front yard.
    9. Tighten up the corner hardware for the master suite bed frame.
    10. Finish painting master bedroom.
    11. Replace master bedroom, and master bath dressing room Ceiling fans, include zigbee fan / light controller. Remove Zigbee bulbs and integrate temp control fan program.
    12. Finish stripping carpet in master suite, blow out tac strip, smooth slab and prep for "engineered hardwood" flooring.
    13. Finish adding Zwave smart switches, and LED light conversion.
    14. Source up hinges for, and finish repairing and refinishing curb find kitchen island.
    15. Build copy of the 8' oak trimmed plywood book case so I have a matching pair of large bookcases in the living room.
    16. Finish making the rest of the window screens for the house. I never should have mentioned to my wife that i made screens at the hardware store I worked at in college. I am making pet safe screens so the cat can't claw through them...
    17. Build a proper queen bed frame for the guest bedroom / bed. I REALLY hate the roller frame. Too low to the ground, moves around WAY too easily... And bug ugly... I have LOTS of beadboard. Figure on a simple boxed design with a beadboard panel stained in dark walnut. No footboard. Just a basic box frame and headboard. That way my wife can be happy with a bed ruffle in there that makes sense... Bed ruffles with footboards always look funny...
    18. Additional work TBD by my wife.
    Last edited by dbhost; 01-05-2022, 05:17 PM.
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    Comment


    • twistsol
      twistsol commented
      Editing a comment
      You are going to be a busy man this year. If you manage all of that, I'm sure #15 will consume any spare time you have

    • dbhost

      dbhost
      commented
      Editing a comment
      I am realistic. Odds are some of the stuff that I can, I am going to farm out like the plumbing and flooring issues...

      FWIW, 2021 saw me add fan / light controllers to the other 5 fans in the house... And adding the 2 new fans to the programming is a simple copy paste affair in the IDE. And the IDE will prompt for sensors and controllers to change it around. You need to know a little tiny bit about scripting, but not much...

      I forgot to mention that I need to flash the firmware on the master suite vanity and living room light switches.

      Honestly it would be nice to get some help with this, BUT... I am realistic. I don't want my wife in the shop while I am cleaning. It gets crowded in there quick, and I just want to listen to my podcast and work my butt off... Once clean I would like her in there with me. She will get volunteered to help out when I size up the shelves..2 people are MUCH better than one while trying to move sheet goods prior to breaking them down with a straight edge and circ saw...
      Last edited by dbhost; 01-05-2022, 05:51 PM.

  • #3
    My plan for 2022 is to try and get through without catching COVID or a variant. Don't want to be eaten by a Mutant or a mutation or whatever!

    Its getting so that it seems having had it will be more common than not having it. Scary.
    Loring in Katy, TX USA
    If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
    BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

    Comment


    • #4
      Originally posted by LCHIEN View Post
      My plan for 2022 is to try and get through without catching COVID or a variant. Don't want to be eaten by a Mutant or a mutation or whatever!

      Its getting so that it seems having had it will be more common than not having it. Scary.
      I don't want ot whip up any controversy, but what reports I am seeing, including from those that have had Omicron, if you are going to get a variant of COVID, it sounds like this is the one to have, and jabbed or not, it sounds like they figure everyone is going to get this stupid virus before it is all over, migt as well get the one that gives mild symptoms...
      Please like and subscribe to my YouTube channel. Please check out and subscribe to my Workshop Blog.

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      • #5
        CLEAN my shop and ORGANIZE it better.

        Project: I have a 4 x 8 HF trailer bought in 2000. The base is precisely 48 inches by 96 inches with holes for post placed so as to take up 3/4" on each side, meaning that a 4x8 sheet of plywood or 8ft boards will not fit in it length wise. I have a bunch of 1" square steel tubing in which I will attempt to increase the size so that the inside floor is 50" by 98". I will probably be doing a good bit of cutting and welding. I was a little concerned about extra weight at first but then realized it has 7/8" wood flooring and wood sides to 15 inches high all the way around. The square tube is not any heavier and I will probably add some preforated (or what ever it is called) steel sheet for the sides and haven't decided on the bottom yet. I have access to a sheet of 4'x8' steel 1/16" thick, that I could use.
        Hank Lee

        Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!

        Comment


        • #6
          Originally posted by leehljp View Post
          CLEAN my shop and ORGANIZE it better.

          Project: I have a 4 x 8 HF trailer bought in 2000. The base is precisely 48 inches by 96 inches with holes for post placed so as to take up 3/4" on each side, meaning that a 4x8 sheet of plywood or 8ft boards will not fit in it length wise. I have a bunch of 1" square steel tubing in which I will attempt to increase the size so that the inside floor is 50" by 98". I will probably be doing a good bit of cutting and welding. I was a little concerned about extra weight at first but then realized it has 7/8" wood flooring and wood sides to 15 inches high all the way around. The square tube is not any heavier and I will probably add some preforated (or what ever it is called) steel sheet for the sides and haven't decided on the bottom yet. I have access to a sheet of 4'x8' steel 1/16" thick, that I could use.
          Have they changed the design? The current HF $499 48x96" trailer appears to have brackets outside the 48x96" base area so you can put sheet goods in it.
          Click image for larger version  Name:	HF trailer post holder.JPG Views:	0 Size:	56.4 KB ID:	847132 Click image for larger version  Name:	HF trailer.JPG Views:	0 Size:	17.4 KB ID:	847133

          If you need to put longer stuff than 8 foot in it, can't you just leave one end off and strap it down? Or four sides on it and have it sit at an incline on top of the back wall like you'd do in a pickup truck bed? Of even make an series of cross bar supports to strap it to.
          Seems like a lot of work to rebuild a stretch trailer.

          Or weld sections of 1" square tube steel vertically to the outside of the frame to put stakes into outside the frame dimensions. for 1" pipe or 1" wood stakes.
          Attached Files
          Last edited by LCHIEN; 01-05-2022, 08:30 PM.
          Loring in Katy, TX USA
          If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
          BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

          Comment


          • #7
            2022 Projects?
            1. Survive my 75th birthday.
            2. Survive whatever covid viruses that come along hoping the MRNA vaxines don't alter my DNA too much.
            3. Finish the third living room table and start on a wall clock cabinet.
            4. Get to use the new cordless snowblower before the warranty expires (cursed climate change). I owe Ryobi a valid review.
            5. Survive SWMBO's redo of the kitchen countertops & backsplash. No, I'm not doing it, waaaay outside my wheelhouse.
            Jim Frye
            The Nut in the Cellar.
            ”Sawdust Is Man Glitter”

            Comment


            • #8
              Originally posted by LCHIEN View Post

              If you need to put longer stuff than 8 foot in it, can't you just leave one end off and strap it down? Or four sides on it and have it sit at an incline on top of the back wall like you'd do in a pickup truck bed? Of even make an series of cross bar supports to strap it to.
              Seems like a lot of work to rebuild a stretch trailer.

              Or weld sections of 1" square tube steel vertically to the outside of the frame to put stakes into outside the frame dimensions. for 1" pipe or 1" wood stakes.
              The bed on mine does not have those straps but rather rectangular holes in the frame itself. The reason I want 1 inch longer and wider is that - contrary to logical thinking all 4 x 8 sheets of plywood are NOT precisely 4x8, nor are all perfect 90s on the corners. So, put a perfect 4x8 sheet of plywood in a perfect 4x8 box and there is no room to grab them except to pull them out from the rear, which is not always convenient for where the trailer has to be parked and where the need for the plywood is. 1 inch will do, but 2 would be better.

              Strap it down: I have done it but it is nice to have a closed tailgate when possible. Just my personally preference.

              Or weld sections of 1" square tube steel vertically to the outside of the frame to put stakes into outside the frame dimensions.
              That is my "basic" plan, with some possible variations. I am just looking forward to doing some welding, cutting and fabricating.
              Last edited by leehljp; 01-05-2022, 09:29 PM.
              Hank Lee

              Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!

              Comment


              • LCHIEN
                LCHIEN commented
                Editing a comment
                Oh, I thought you were going to extend the length and width!

                But you can get the 4x8 plywood out of a 4x8 box, you just have to remove one or two opposite sides. Those stakes lift up, right, Isn't that the purpose?
                Last edited by LCHIEN; 01-06-2022, 12:46 AM.

              • dbhost

                dbhost
                commented
                Editing a comment
                That is very odd. Teardrop camper builders love the 4x8 HF trailers because the base is right at 4x8. Although most do NOT use the stakes, all of them I have seen have the stake pockets as Loring shows. I guess they changed them over the years. I'm just wishing someone would sell an affordable 6'x12' utility trailer like that so I can build a bigger teardrop camper! That is one of the major projects I soooooo want to do. Well not a tear drop per se, but more of a square-ish drop... With a trifold king bed... I know tall order. I think I need to buy a LOT of beer, and steel box channel and call up some of my college buddies that know how to weld...

            • #9
              "Stakes lift up?"

              No, not mine. I make sure they don't move. Mine are bolted in. Over time one or two will become loose and bounce up/out when empty. And I use them to tie cords onto when moving something higher/taller than the 15" sides and front.

              At this time, my plan will be to add a ring of 1 inch square tube around the perimeter of the current base. That will make it longer and wider by an inch on each side. I will probably figure it out as I go.
              Hank Lee

              Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!

              Comment


              • #10
                Not sure I have any projects left in me while I'm living overseas, but my main priorities are to pack up my current shop, move back to the US in July, and setup shop again after getting all of my stuff out of storage--maybe late summer.

                I had an electrician (same one who set me up in my first shop 15 years ago) put in a 60A sub in my garage before I left. From there I'm going to surface mount conduit to run electrical boxes around the shop as well as a separate lighting circuit from the existing garage door lights.

                I know there's plenty of insulation over the garage attic but the walls are covered in dry wall. I'm not sure if that means there's insulation in there or not. Fingers crossed because I do not want to take down the drywall.

                Comment


                • LCHIEN
                  LCHIEN commented
                  Editing a comment
                  It might only take a few inspection holes to determine if there is insulation behind the drywall. I suspect if its on the house wall side there will be insulation but if its a wall to the outside of the house then there will not be insulation.
                  Still there are ways to put insulation into the walls behind drywall without tearing out the drywall.... some stuff can be blown into a 3-4 inch hole between each stud, or I think there are some expanding foams that can be squirted into even smaller holes and expand in place. You'll have to check around to see what can be done.

              • #11
                Originally posted by leehljp View Post
                "Stakes lift up?"

                No, not mine. I make sure they don't move. Mine are bolted in. Over time one or two will become loose and bounce up/out when empty. And I use them to tie cords onto when moving something higher/taller than the 15" sides and front.

                At this time, my plan will be to add a ring of 1 inch square tube around the perimeter of the current base. That will make it longer and wider by an inch on each side. I will probably figure it out as I go.
                You can make them quickly removable with a clearance hole that goes thru aligned holes in the stake and the frame. Using a clevis pin and hairpin like this:

                Click image for larger version  Name:	clevis pn and hairpin clip.JPG Views:	0 Size:	39.6 KB ID:	847189

                A little rattlely but not a big issue.
                Loring in Katy, TX USA
                If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
                BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

                Comment


                • #12
                  Something MAJOR I missed, but it isn't me that I plan on doing all of it.

                  #1. Finish repowering the truck. I have been saving my rainy day fund for a new, bulletproofed 5.4L 3V Triton for my 2004 F150 4x4. I have a friend that has an auto shop that will do the swap for ME at his labor cost, not his shop rate... Basically I order the crate motor, pay his guys, it gets done.
                  #2. The rest is on me here... Install Moog HD coil springs on the truck. The Rancho springs are too soft for the 5.4 AND winch, AND brush guard. Rancho recommended I swap the coils to the Moog HD units.
                  #3. Perform the "California Trim" fender trimming. I only have 2.5" of lift on my truck, and 35x12.50 tires. They rub a touch at the back of the fenders while turning at full compression. There is a steel flap joint where the inner and outer fenders meet that sticks out something like 1.75" Slot this with a cut off wheel, and fold it back with a sledge. Slather with epoxy primer, paint, and undercoating and I am golden for another 20 years...
                  #4. Perform all routine maintenance. Oil, fluids, belts, hoses, coolant blah blah blah.
                  #5. Fix the rear half door release mechanisms. The cables use nylon spacers / tensioners that crumble in the heat. A 3rd party company makes stainless ferrules that swap in and crimp to the cables to insure 100% this problem can not happen again.

                  I know it is a LOT of hassle, but consider this. Newly repowered, and even if I have to throw $1,500.00 in tires at this truck, that means I have $5,000.00 into restoration of this rig. It's already lifted, already has the winch, winch bumper, lights, everything I need for hauling the camper. Why on earth would I dump $50,000.00 into a new truck that wouldn't already have my desired features? To top that off, with what is happening with production, can't even get it anyway...
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