Sliding Dovetails a How To guide

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  • Black wallnut
    cycling to health
    • Jan 2003
    • 4715
    • Ellensburg, Wa, USA.
    • BT3k 1999

    Sliding Dovetails a How To guide

    First choose a dovetail bit and mount it in your router table. Any size or angle will work just be sure to size it for your project parts. If you have options install the plate with the smallest opening for the bit, this will make the work safer. My one bad shop accident was making sliding dovetail joints on a curved workpiece. While my finger was healing I came up with a jig to hold odd shaped pieces. With square parts and proper set-up using a push block has been safe enough for me. Your safety is your choice so think it through.



    Set the fence so your dovetail grove (pocket) is where you want it. If you are joining two pieces the same thickness then you will want this centered. For table aprons centered may or may not look right.



    The dovetail grove (pocket) is a stopped grove. Mark your fence or table or set up a stop block so that the dovetail pocket is shorter in length slightly than the pin board is wide.



    Set your pin board next to the pocket and mark the width. Move your fence so the the mark closest to the fence is barely away from the top edge of the bit when the cutter is 90° from fence.




    Use a push block to push the pin board through the cutter keeping your fingers as far as possible form the cutter while having control. Pass one side through then the other so you have a pin the full width of the pin board.



    Check the pin for fit.If you set your fence correctly the pin will be slightly oversize. as below.



    Use a mallet or hammer and gently tap your fence exposing a tiny bit more of the cutter.




    Pass your pin board though both sides again and check the fit. This is where trial and error will teach you how slight movements make huge differences. It really would be wise to practice cutting this joint with disposable stock, offcuts and the like until you get a feel for how the slight adjustments work.



    That just right fit barely has any room for glue. Once the fit is correct you will need to remove part of the pin to seat it in the pocket. Stand your pin board up and push it past the cutter without changing either the height or fence.




    The above pic shows the general idea but I cut it both horizontal and vertical. Another way is to use the table saw to nibble away at the end.

    Final two pics are the complete joint. Including set up this took less than 15 minutes. Like I said in the table post this joint is pretty easy and plenty strong. It provides a large amount of glue surface without requiring deep mortises. This was assembled with an off cut and scrap.




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk; edited via laptop.
    Last edited by Black walnut; 02-25-2017, 03:31 PM.
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  • cwsmith
    Veteran Member
    • Dec 2005
    • 2740
    • NY Southern Tier, USA.
    • BT3100-1

    #2
    Thanks Mark,

    You've made it quite clear and it looks pretty straight forward, if you follow the steps you've written. Next time I make a small table I'll definitely give this a try.

    Thanks for your step-by-step photo illustration,

    CWS
    Think it Through Before You Do!

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    • tfischer
      Veteran Member
      • Jul 2003
      • 2343
      • Plymouth (Minneapolis), MN, USA.
      • BT3100

      #3
      That's an awesome tutorial.

      Mark - have you ever tried a tapered sliding dovetail? That joint intrigues me but I've never been able to wrap my head around how to pull it off. (It's supposed to make it a lot easier to slide the joint together if you have a long dovetail)

      Comment

      • Black walnut
        Administrator
        • Aug 2015
        • 5448
        • BT3K

        #4
        Originally posted by tfischer
        That's an awesome tutorial.

        Mark - have you ever tried a tapered sliding dovetail? That joint intrigues me but I've never been able to wrap my head around how to pull it off. (It's supposed to make it a lot easier to slide the joint together if you have a long dovetail)
        Yes Tim, as a matter of fact the mallet shown above is made with tapered sliding dovetails. It's called a puzzle mallet. First saw it on the Woodright Shop. Contacted Roy Underhill via email for a detailed drawing, he gladly provided. I've made two so far. 100% hand cut dovetail, sloping, sliding, and tapered. A fun project if you are up to the challenge.
        just another brick in the wall...

        Boycott McAfee. They placed an unresponsive popup on my pc.

        Comment

        • tfischer
          Veteran Member
          • Jul 2003
          • 2343
          • Plymouth (Minneapolis), MN, USA.
          • BT3100

          #5
          Hand cutting is (at least in my mind) a few levels out of my skill grade But I'd love to learn how to do them on the router table. Heck I'd love to learn how to do them by hand too

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