Custom molding

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  • atgcpaul
    Veteran Member
    • Aug 2003
    • 4055
    • Maryland
    • Grizzly 1023SLX

    Custom molding

    I'm still working on finishing touches on my kitchen remodel (still). The old laminate countertop had an integrated backsplash that covered the bottom 4" of the kitchen windows. It looked really dumb and anything that splashed at the sink got caught between the window and the back of the backsplash. It was a pain to keep clean.

    When I put in the new countertop, I didn't want to interrupt that view anymore with a backsplash, but the window moldings dead ended at the top of the backsplash. Replacing the left and right moldings weren't a problem because it's a common profile. Although after 18 years, the stock moldings at the Borg are slighter thinner than they used to be. I could not find the molding that divided the two windows, though. It's basically a 1/2" thick board with two 3/8" beads running the length of it.

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    It would be an easy thing to mill if I had a 3/8" beading bit for my router, but I don't and they aren't necessarily that inexpensive. I only need 8 linear feet of it. I thought about buying 8' of window molding and ripping off the bead and using that, but that seemed really wasteful. Then I remembered I bought a bunch of scratch stock from a member on another forum. IIRC, probably $1 for each piece of metal and I can get 4 profiles on each one. I traced the profile onto the scratch stock, used a bench grinder to remove most of the material, and then finished up with some hand files. Not a perfect reproduction, but good enough. This was the second profile I've made so I already had a little wooden block to hold the scratch stock.

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    I started with some light passes and applied more pressure as I progressed. Poplar is pretty soft so it didn't take that much effort. Maybe 1/2 hr to form the profiles on both sides. Once it's painted, it should look like it was always there. I'm happy with the end result.

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  • JoeyGee
    Veteran Member
    • Nov 2005
    • 1509
    • Sylvania, OH, USA.
    • BT3100-1

    #2
    That's a great solution. I probably would have bought the other trim and ripped it. I like your solution better. Much more satisfying.
    Joe

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    • Black wallnut
      cycling to health
      • Jan 2003
      • 4715
      • Ellensburg, Wa, USA.
      • BT3k 1999

      #3
      I think I would have bought the router bit. Your solution is much better.
      Donate to my Tour de Cure


      marK in WA and Ryobi Fanatic Association State President ©

      Head servant of the forum

      ©

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      • LCHIEN
        Internet Fact Checker
        • Dec 2002
        • 20914
        • Katy, TX, USA.
        • BT3000 vintage 1999

        #4
        I would have bought the #5533 3/8" edge beading bit from MLCSWOODWORKING.com for $18 (actually I already have it) but yours looks great and you are proud of it so good for you!
        Last edited by LCHIEN; 02-26-2017, 02:12 AM.
        Loring in Katy, TX USA
        If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
        BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

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