Ripping acute angles? Jig-How?

[libnosneb]

I have talked my neighbor into purchasing a BT3000, like I have. YEA! He wants to make some 2x6's look like a rounded split log. He had someone show him how to cut some on a BT3000 (not me) but, to me, it looks unsafe. First he is rip cutting a 45 (board laying 6" side down) and taking off the top corner (ok, no problem there), then they showed him to take the board and lay it tilted over the top edge of the fence and take the bottom edge and run it along a groove in the table close to/and under the blade, (at 45), to cut an acute angle that goes from the 45 just cut to almost to the middle of the board, kinda like cutting two separate 45's down the same half of the board (which I believe is unsafe and unable to duplicate on future boards). I think he runs the risk of kickback. ....Then he takes a power planer and sander to finish the rounded edge, and a dado makes a tongue & groove on the edges.

My question is, how do I make a jig that allows him to rip a 2x6 and keep it at a proper steep angle that can be duplicated and made safely?

thanks in advance for your help. I hope I am explaining this good enough for you.

[LCHIEN]

not exactly picturing this...
is the crown of the rounded edge supposed to be one of the 6" faces?

Not sure what the grooves have to do with it. BT3000 grooves aren't guaranteed parallel to the blade, as a final thought. you can't use them to guide work because of that and because they don't go thru the throat plate area.

is this how its supposed to be cut?

[radhak]

This is how I interpreted your description. Am I anywhere close?
I assume you meant the board is made to run with the corner B along some groove on the table.

Or did you mean the 2nd cut starts right on the corner B?

[Daryl]

I am picturing the same as what Radhak drew.
Let us know what happens first; kickback to the gut or loss of finger(s).

[libnosneb]

not exactly picturing this...
is the crown of the rounded edge supposed to be one of the 6" faces?

Not sure what the grooves have to do with it. BT3000 grooves aren't guaranteed parallel to the blade, as a final thought. you can't use them to guide work because of that and because they don't go thru the throat plate area.

is this how its supposed to be cut?

Yes, you have it exactly! That's what he's doing.

not exactly picturing this...
is the crown of the rounded edge supposed to be one of the 6" faces?

Not sure what the grooves have to do with it. BT3000 grooves aren't guaranteed parallel to the blade, as a final thought. you can't use them to guide work because of that and because they don't go thru the throat plate area.

is this how its supposed to be cut?

He's putting these on his wall and using the tongue and groove to put them together

[libnosneb]

This is how I interpreted your description. Am I anywhere close?
I assume you meant the board is made to run with the corner B along some groove on the table.

Or did you mean the 2nd cut starts right on the corner B?

Your close, You have it (2x6 board) upside down, it would be A & D that run in the table groove next to the throat plate. But you do have the fence correctly. Actually LCHIEN diagram has the cuts correct, at least that's how it's being done now, with your drawing correct about it leaning on the fence.

And I use to live in Katy, I believe on Southaven, I think? It was back in 80ish?

[Black wallnut]

Do the above in order:

[LCHIEN]

Do the above in order:

I agree with BW.
A shallow cut will leave enough edge to make the 45 rip following.
Use of a taller fence extension will help a lot to stabilize - and make it easier to keep the wood against the fence.
Extended height fence is easy, ask if you need details.

The T&G can be done after these cuts, I assume with a router.
I'd be tempted to make two groove cuts identical on both sides then use a skinny piece of wood strip to do a separate tongue between each pair of boards. That way the set up is identical (one set up with one cut each side vs. two setups with matching height requirements and two cuts on the second side) and you waste no board width.

Loring

[Black wallnut]

One other thought is that it might be a good idea to use a ZCTP for the final rip.

[pelligrini]

One other thought is that it might be a good idea to use a ZCTP for the final rip.

Good Diagram and suggestion, featherboards might help, but setting them up on the angled faces might be problematic. Like Loring mentioned; a taller rip fence is handy for edge cuts too.

I couldn't picture the OP's first description. Much clearer once he replied. I believe his neighbor was performing some cuts that were just begging for an accident to happen.

[libnosneb]

Thank you for all your help and answers everyone, that is much much better than what he was trying to do. I will let him know.

I will have to do some research on making a taller fence that you suggested. I will try a search first, but if anyone has and exact plan for one, please let me know (shouldn't it be just 3 pieces of wood around the fence with one side taller?), Thanks again

[LCHIEN]

Thank you for all your help and answers everyone, that is much much better than what he was trying to do. I will let him know.

I will have to do some research on making a taller fence that you suggested. I will try a search first, but if anyone has and exact plan for one, please let me know (shouldn't it be just 3 pieces of wood around the fence with one side taller?), Thanks again

mine is just one piece of wood and two bolts and T-nuts mounted to the rip fence. Head of the bolts recessed.
Minor issue would be that the t-slot in the fence is different on two faces for some weird reason (I suspect its because the same extrusion is used for the miter fence). Normally I use my tall fence on the left side so it would require mods (different T-nut at least, maybe different slot height location) to work on the right.
your "straddle" fence would work on either side as long as there is a way to secure it to the fence.

[pelligrini]

I did a quickie tall fence with a piece of plywood and a ripped 2x4. The 2x was jointed, and then ripped a bit narrower, not much taller than my rip fence. A piece of ply was screwed to the 2x. I attached it to my rip fence with some rockler fence clamps. http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=49791

There's a bunch of articles in here: http://www.bt3central.com/forumdisplay.php?f=34

Be sure to check out the last one. You'll end up here: http://www.bt3central.com/index.php?page=articles
There's at least one high fence article: https://www.sawdustzone.org/articles...highfncins.pdf

[LCHIEN]

I do like the Rockler fence clamps Pellegrini mentions. My review:
http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=49791
Here's an even easier way to make a tall fence using them:

Take a piece of 3/4" MDF or Plywood or melamine-covered stock, 24 inches long (or a bit longer if you wish) which is the length of the rip fence. Make it as high as you need (6" inches in the case of the OPs task).
Drill two 1.5" hole in the piece about 3 inches from the ends, and the height so that the bottom of the hole is level with the top of the rip fence when the tall fence is placed against the rip fence. As an alternative to 2 big holes you can do two 1" overlapping holes or even a slot. One big hole is fastest to do.
Now drill a 3/8" hole from the bottom of the tall fence piece so that the holes intersect the center of the large holes drilled - e.g. 3" from the ends of the tall fence.

Now the tall fence can be put next to the rip fence, and the rockler clamps can be inserted from the far side of the fence - the hook tips of the clamps go into the 3/8" holes from the center of the 1.5" holes and clamp to the rip fence. For long term use, I would put a slight 45° chamfer or a 1/8" roundover on the edges of the 1.5" holes to make sure nothing got caught on them... sand and wax the face of the fence if desired.

Same idea from Rockler site, photos
http://images.rockler.com/images/art...FenceFront.jpg
http://images.rockler.com/images/art...hFenceRear.jpg

Advantages:
dirt simple, 10-15 minute project
uses the inexpensive ($12-15) Rockler Fence clamps (which are great with band saws, table saws for all kinds of guides, stops and jigs)
easily Usable on either side of the fence
Light weight, slim, easy to store compared to fence straddlers.