plunge router operation - with fixed base..

[steve_b]

I have a project that calls for routed detail in a surface - but starts in the middle - so I can't run in from the end against a guide. With a plunge router I can start where ever - how ever I don't have one and as much I would like to - it's not in the budget. Can I safely drop in from an angle running against a 'taller' edge guide - its a fluted detail, 3 passes on 4 parts so if I get 2 passes done ok and then mess up the 3rd pass - I lose the piece..


Thanks for taking the time to read my post..

[poolhound]

Yes you can do this but dont be tempted to try and take too much off with each pass. Not sure how big the workpiece is but it could be eaiser to use a router table setup and lower the work into the bit.

If you dont have a table you can make a temporary one by simply mounting your router under any sturdy piece of sheet goods.

Stop blocks would also be a good idea to make sure you dont overrun the cut. Also make sure you route in the right direction so the bit is pulled in towards the fence.

[LCHIEN]

yes you can, as ph stated take a small plunge - you would do that as well with any plunge router. Also don't hold it floating in the air and drop straight down, but rest one edge of the base on the workpiece and then tilt the other edge down so you have control. The small plunge amount and the small angle will not make any visible problems, do it in the middle and work both ways if guided.

[cabinetman]

The router can be tipped into the work as you move it slowly. It's just getting a feel for it. You could take a few passes which lessens the resistance.
.

[Kristofor]

Probably a given but I'll mention it anyhow. You mentioned following a fence rather than freehanding, so when you tip in to the workpiece remember to pivot parallel to the fence not perpendicular. If you put the pivot point in contact with the fence the arc of the tip of the bit will make your cut wider at the point of entry. The deeper the cut, the worse the effect.