Burl Veneer Process

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  • drumpriest
    Veteran Member
    • Feb 2004
    • 3338
    • Pittsburgh, Pa, USA.
    • Powermatic PM 2000

    Burl Veneer Process

    Inspired by JR's chair thread, I figured I'd post some pics and description of my veneering process for the cabinet doors I'm making. Besides, the kid does most of the hard work....



    I started by finding that I don't have a burl veneer large enough for the panels, so I decided to quarter match them. This works well anyway as it'll match the other cabinet in the room, which is also quarter matched walnut burl. Commercial veneer is super thin, 1/42" or so, and burls just don't stay flat. For the past week I've been flattening them. I'm using glycerin that I bought from Rockler mixed with water, paint the veneers with that solution, both sides, and clamp flat with newsprint between each veneer sheet. I've changed that print every day for the past week.



    It's just clamped between some flooring and 8/4 poplar (well almost 8/4, I did resaw some veneer from the board for marquetry...)

    The next step is to cut the edges straight so that I can piece the 4 together. As my sheets together are a bit oversize, I don't really worry about cutting a square corner, just a straight edge on 2, tape them up, then the other 2, then finally cut straight edges on each of those pairs to get the 4 together nice and tight...I used a veneer saw on my last project, but figured I'd try just a razor knife on this one, and I think it's the way to go, just change the blade often and you get great cuts. I just hold the edge down with a jointed board and cut. Note the sacrificial ply so that I don't muck up the assembly table.



    The offcuts you see here are form the walnut underbelly counterbalance veneer.
    Keith Z. Leonard
    Go Steelers!
  • drumpriest
    Veteran Member
    • Feb 2004
    • 3338
    • Pittsburgh, Pa, USA.
    • Powermatic PM 2000

    #2
    Once I have edges cut, I use blue tape (because I'm cheap, and it's easier to get off than the veneer tape), to pull the pieces together, then tape along the seam.



    One other thing to note is that I find it easier to leave my substrate a little bigger than my veneer, and both of them oversize. By doing this I have a nice straight reference edge to cut along when it comes out of the press. I just use titebond veneer glue for these small panels. Glue on both sides of the substrate, and a good amount of it, then position the veneers, and tape at the corners, then it goes between 2 MDF cauls and into the press.

    Only downside to the vacuum press is that it eats up my entire work area while in use.



    Two patient hours later and pulling off the tape, I get to see the results.



    Came out ok, some small issues but nothing major. I had just a tiny overlap at one point, but it sanded flat, overall I'm happy with it.

    Please post any and all comments or questions, thanks!
    Keith Z. Leonard
    Go Steelers!

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    • cabinetman
      Gone but not Forgotten RIP
      • Jun 2006
      • 15218
      • So. Florida
      • Delta

      #3
      Nice work, the effort shows. Great looking pattern. Post a picture with some finish on it. What are you going to use? I feel the same way about veneer tape. I've used the blue painters tape with good results.
      .

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      • ironhat
        Veteran Member
        • Aug 2004
        • 2553
        • Chambersburg, PA (South-central).
        • Ridgid 3650 (can I still play here?)

        #4
        Beautiful wood and nicely handled. I don't know that I could produce 8, dead flat edges to meet. And you cut that veneer free-hand with a utility knife?! All I can say is, "Wow"! Keep us posted on the project.
        Blessings,
        Chiz

        Comment

        • drumpriest
          Veteran Member
          • Feb 2004
          • 3338
          • Pittsburgh, Pa, USA.
          • Powermatic PM 2000

          #5
          Cabinetman, it'll get tinted shellac and USL (ultima spray laquer), probably a half dozen coats. That's become my new fav formula. The only trouble I get with blue tape is that my press sometimes will be overzealous and leave tape dents when I have a couple of layers of tape, such as when quarter matching burls. Even after flattening the burls want to curl a bit.

          ironhat, not so much "freehand", I use a piece of jointed stock as a fence, and run the knife along the edge there. It still takes a consistent touch, but it's not too difficult.

          Thanks for the comments guys!
          Keith Z. Leonard
          Go Steelers!

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