Face Frame Strategies

[ChrisD]

Keith's thread on joinery testing and my newly acquired experience in building face frames prompt me to ask: What is your preferred joinery for building face frames?

I'll make it a multi-vote poll for those who use different methods for utilitarian and fine furniture.

[drumpriest]

Chris, I have to say that the nicest face frame that I've ever made was done with a double dowel approach, and a shop made jig. The only trouble was that it took quite a long time to make it.

I usually use pocket screws, but it does depend. Occasionally it matters because you will be able to see the back of the face frame in some way. In those occasions I use double dowels regardless of the time consumption.

For me Mortise & Tenon is overkill for a face frame. The reward is not typically worth the time sink.

[ChrisD]

Keith, I just completed four cabinet carcases which I will be using as mobile bases. I used the cheapest, ugliest plywood known to man so I thought they deserved some dressing up.

I built the face frames using pocke hole joints. (I finally bought a Kreg jig. Woo hoo.) It was so easy to use that after building the last frame I almost built a couple more just to satisfy the craving.

Having a mortiser makes it very easy for me to use M&T whenever it is appropriate, especially for finer pieces. For utilitarian shop cabs, I totally agree it would be overkill.

[gsmittle]

Count me as a Kreg fanatic--I love my pocket hole jig. I used it for some shop cabinets, (and the face frames) too, and when I built the base of #2 son's bed. Fast and easy, and as long as I cut square, the end result is square.

I'm building my first workbench with through tenons, and it's been a huge amount of work--probably because it's my first attempt at M&T joinery.

g.

[drumpriest]

Mortise and tenon make a lot of sense in a lot of applications. I use it fairly often, but not for a face frame. I just think that it typically doesn't get enough stress to have to worry that much about the joint. Thus my use of Pocket Screws. I'll still use them even knowing that they are a relatively weak joint given certain stresses.

They typically hold up cabinet doors, and provide spacers between drawers. Not a terribly difficult job when compared to my use of M&T, which is more for benches, tables, desks, etc....

G, try mortise and loose tenon at some point, with a spiral plunge router setup. It's pretty darned easy. I should put a video on youtube doing it at some point.

[BigguyZ]

I should put a video on youtube doing it at some point.

If you do, let us know. Never used M&T

[JimD]

Traditional mortise and tenons are pretty easy too if you spring for a dedicated mortiser. I use a "Jim Frye" type jig on the BT3100 for the tenons. Takes a bit more time than pocket screws but not all that much with the right tools. Probably takes about the same amount of time as a loose mortise and tenon using a plunge router - possibly less.

Jim

[drumpriest]

Jim, I dunno about less, hard to say. I'll try and record a video of it, and you can see that it's pretty efficient. The hard part of a traditional M&T is cutting the tenon, really. Especially if you have a dedicated mortiser.

Of course, my argument goes to the fact that most woodworkers have a plunge router, I think many fewer have a dedicated mortiser.

[LarryG]

Another advantage of loose tenons (this thread has kinda strayed from the OP's intent, I think, but that's not unusual) is that it greatly simplifies the arithmetic. There's no telling how many door stiles or table aprons have been cut too short because the woodworker forgot to allow for the tenons.

Loose tenons save a bit of stock, too ... maybe not a significant amount, but a little.