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Looking for a pair or maybe more of the fixture blocks that were available through t-nuts.com, they dont seem to be available anymore. If anyone has some they would like to sell please respond to this post.
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Last edited by Cale Moyer; 05-19-2023, 01:57 PM. -
what the OP is talking about
http://t-nuts.com/index.php?cPath=77_63&osCsid=2dc2b2e38289699eceb12 c84a646da95Last edited by LCHIEN; 05-21-2023, 11:47 PM.
Loring in Katy, TX USA
If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions -
Stay tuned... in a couple of days I will have a DIY fixture block design.
Made the measurements of the rip fence already
Loring in Katy, TX USA
If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questionsComment
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Thank you for all that work Loring, was thinking along the same line of creating my own. Found a couple of 1”x 2”x 12” Al blocks that I’ve had for some time, finally may put them to use.Comment
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I think I have a fixture block alternative that can be made without a machine shop,
Just some wood and a BT3000 and some readily available aluminum bar. A drill press maybe and a single simple tapped hole in aluminum.
Reviewing it tomorrow and post soon.Loring in Katy, TX USA
If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questionsComment
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Always looking forward to your ingenuity - BTW I am still trying to understand how these blocks work. I tried reading the documents on that website. But I don't think I understand all those usages mentioned.Comment
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Just a fancy way to connect something to the top of the rip fence... the illustrated use was a tall fence, but you've seen my solution using fence clamps.Originally posted by nicer20 View Post
This project is just "to see if I can do it" kind of design!
this is half of it
Loring in Katy, TX USA
If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questionsComment
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My DIY Fixture blocks. For attaching things to the rip and miter fence extrusion of the BT3x00 saws,
Looks like they fit and will work.
Can't find my stash of 1/4"-28 set screws to lock them down. Lowes was out, guess I need to go to Ace.
Will post plans and construction article in the Articles section soon.
Last edited by LCHIEN; 05-24-2023, 01:46 PM.Loring in Katy, TX USA
If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questionsComment
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Very nice, I have been working on a piece with the exact same shape using the aluminum blocks I had laying around. Mine is without the metal faceplates as they are not needed with the solid al block. Slow going though as I am cutting the metal with a jigsaw and fine shaping with a dremel and with a router accessorie and cutter bitss. Hope to finish and get pics sometime this weekend, work is getting in the way of fun.Comment
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Last edited by LCHIEN; 05-25-2023, 08:14 AM.Loring in Katy, TX USA
If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questionsComment
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Nice work Loring - as usual !
One application immediately coming to mind is clamping a feather board along the rip fence to prevent the piece from lifting & also reducing the risk of kickback. Especially useful when ripping long stock when one doesn't have a push stick to hold the stock down. Also when doing any sort of dados & rabbets to put the workpiece down all the time.Comment
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Yeah, that's good. I would beware of putting any large upwards forces (like a sprung featherboard) on the rip fence as there's not a lot clamping it down. Its hooked at the back and in the front the lever clamps to the sides of the rail.Originally posted by nicer20 View PostLoring in Katy, TX USA
If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questionsComment
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At one time there used to be complaints about the front clamp of the rip fence lifting up as it was clamped. I think it came down to people were waxing or siliconing the front rail where the rip fence clamp squeezes the rail top from the sides... if it too slippery then the rip fence block just pops up.
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Here is my version, pretty much the same as Loring’s only out of aluminum. Cut the al block down to the full width of the fence with the jigsaw. Cut the “short” side of the step with a dremel wheel but it was very hard to control and there was no way to manage the depth, hence the overcut which is very visible. Went back to the jigsaw with a longer blade to do the the longer side of the step. Had to make 2 passes with the jig due to the inherent angle of the blade. Finished it by drillling the 5/16 (Q bit) mounting hole at the centerline of the gap in top of the fence, then the 2 1/4” face holes (7 bit) and tapping them. Mounts to the fence with a t-nut that is the same as all of the BT3K standard parts.Comment
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Going forward, I will likely skip adding the step and just use the flat block and the 3 holes. As an aside, I also made a long fence using a 1x4x48 piece of poplar, some 8-32x1 screws and low profile narrow base weld nuts (McMaster Carr 98697A510) that mount it to the face of either the rip or miter fence.Comment
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This long fence is something looking cool.
I have built a long fence and attached it using the Rockler fence clamps (see attached) but I have always wanted to have a T-track with stop block mounting. Your design seems like addressing these issues.
Can you please share some more details & photos? Thanks in advance.Attached FilesComment
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LCHIEN
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