WTB: BT3x accessory plate

[Invader]

Without predrilled holes for router.


Thanks

[John Hunter]

They come either pre drilled for the Ryobi Router or drilled for a saber saw.

[Invader]

The one that came with my craftsman is predrilled for alot of different routers, of which my non plunge craftsman is mounted underneath. I'm looking for just a plain one (molded for holes but not drilled through) to use while my router one is disconnected from the saw.

I'm referencing http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=26185 for the odd plate (or is it a factory defect?)

[LCHIEN]

The one that came with my craftsman is predrilled for alot of different routers, of which my non plunge craftsman is mounted underneath. I'm looking for just a plain one (molded for holes but not drilled through) to use while my router one is disconnected from the saw.

I'm referencing http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=26185 for the odd plate (or is it a factory defect?)

That's a real old one, to my knowledge an odd one.

Do you have a 22811 or the new 21829.
Don't understand your terminology: Accessory plate.
The router mounts in the aux table. The 22811 had an mounting plate (with holes) the 21829 has holes in the aux table itself.

Are you looking for an auxiliary table or a mounting plate?

The one you reference is a real old one, to my knowledge an odd one, too.

If you have a 21829 you don't need to cover the holes, or even remove the router, just lower the router below the table.

[BenW]

Made my own router mounting plate for Sears 21829

Hi,
Not sure if you resolved your issue, but here's my story...

My Sears clone has holes already in the table for mounting the router, and the manual says to just attach your router, blah blah blah. BUT they don't fit any of my 3 different routers. There are 2 different set of holes near the 2" center hole, but they're not aligned properly for my bases.

Complicating matters, all the factory holes in the accessory table have "nipples" or whatever they're called sticking out on the bottom of the cast table, so it's not easy to drill addditional holes (nor does it seem safe to try and use new holes while these improperly aligned nipples are spacing your tool away from the underside of the table, but not at the attachment points)

Never seen a BT up close and personal, but sounds like their accessory table was designed to use a mounting plate for adding a router. My model also has 4 holes (with nipples) spaced farther away from the center hole... presumably for a mounting plate. At least, that's what I used them for, though there's no mention of them in the manual.

So I...
-- went down to the local metal supply (BORG, etc. didn't carry material I felt was beefy enough) and bought the smallest portion of a sheet of 12 gauge steel that they'd sell me ($18 with tax, enough for 4 plates) and stick of metal cutting lube paste ($6)
-- from BORG bought metal abrasive blade for circular saw ($5), #10x24 tap & drill set ($5) (chose this spec because it matched screws already used in base plates of 2 of my routers), tap handle ($7), 2 1/4" bi-metal hole saw ($16)
-- from Dixieline bought small pack of #10x24 x 1" phillips drive machine screws (BORG here only carries flat blade, which I don't know why anyone would use a flat blade screw in this day and age for anything, but especially for this where things will get tight & hard to unscrew due to vibration, etc.) ($1)
-- cut metal sheet into approx 7"x7" squares using cicular saw with metal abrasive blade. Loud & messy, but it works. Recommend clamping a 1x piece of wood as a guide 'cause it's slow going in that size metal, too.
-- used 4" angle grinder to soften the edges so I don't cut myself later
-- meticulously marked the 4 corner holes by setting one plate on a block to hold it up off the workbench, setting accessory table on it and using one of those spring-loaded punches to mark the holes just right
-- stacked the 4 metal plates, clamped together, drill-pressed the corner holes first with a tiny bit to pilot, then with bit from a tap set
-- used the tap & tap handle to thread the holes. Note, always do 1/4 turns & back off repeatedly until through. (You could just drill through & use a nut on the bottom, but I like screwing right to the plate because then you don't have to mess with a nut on the bottom while screwdrivering the top, making install/removal easier)
-- marked the centers, used hole saw & very slow pressure in drill press to eventually cut through each plate individually (flipped them half way through as it seemed to go easier that way). Probably trashed that hole saw in the process. Loud & slow. Frequently applied metal cutting lube in the process (this may not be necessary, but what do I know).
-- centered, marked, drill-pressed holes for each router's base plate in separate mounting plates (could have done them all on one if I wanted to use one plate for all, but my bases will each stay attached to the mounting plates, switching off on the saw when needed)
-- counter-sunk router mounting holes with counter-sink bit on drill press. May not be necessary since many of my screw heads had clearance between all the nipples.
-- attached router base(s) to mounting plate(s) with existing or new screws
-- attached router mounting plate to bottom of accessory table with the new screws. Again, easiest to set base/plate on bench, set accessory table on top and screw together rather than try to hang the thing under the table while it's on the saw.

Cost me about $50 and half a day of shopping and 4+ hrs of metal working (I'm putting togther a wood shop, NOT a metal shop... could have been done in minutes in the right facility, I'm sure). Was worth it to me to get it done since I didn't readily find one pre-made out there (or on this board) at the time, but can't say I'd do it again if I had another option.

Hope that all helps someone out somehow
--Ben

p.s Ok, now is when someone posts the link to the $5 pre-made in the color of your choice with free overnight shipping...

[siliconbauhaus]

Actually I'm considering parting out the c'man one I have as I have my eye on a bt3k. So if I can sell the parts to cover my costs the missus will let me get the other one.