First post-

[Old Jarhead]

Hi to all. FNG here. A couple of days ago, I asked my neighbor if I could make 2 cuts on his awesome cast iron Rigid cabinet saw (ok maybe it’s a hybrid..idk for sure) after he said yes- he asked if I wanted a free table saw- and of course I said yes. This morning I was gifted a RYOBI BT3000, with extension table, rails and other accessories and a bag of parts. I had no idea what it was. In my online search for an owners manual I found this site. I cannot find a data plate or identifying sticker anywhere other than the front. So I don’t truly know exactly which version (if that even applies) it is.
Anyway- I found the owners manual on this site and I’m goi g to go try and get it checked out and set up, I do need to picture frame an “attic” access panel in the breezeway-to-my-garage ceiling so I’ll be making some very basic mitre cuts on the saw.
So here I am, and here’s to good luck and free stuff.

[LCHIEN]

There should be a nameplate on the Right side next to the power plug with the S/N, four digit date code of manufacture YYWW format and the voltage and Amp/RPM rating.


This example made 16th week of 1999

The saw came out in 1991 I think, there were a flurry of changes made thru 1993 but after that is was fairly stable.
The '92-'93 changes were power switch (double push button to safety covered rocker), upgrade of motor (13-15 amps), and the elevator hand wheel style (black metal open to black plastic closed)

You might find it helpful to get the BT3FAQ that is linked at the bottom of my post signature line.

Welcome to the club... I have had my BT3000 since 1999 it has been trouble free and a delight to me to use.

[leehljp]

I "think" the 16 of 9916 means the "16th week" of 1999.

Welcome Old Jarhead. If you have questions, ask away. Some of our memory has gone by the wayside but sometimes we can recall the answers! Loring wrote down most of it and at least one of the fellows here were with this saw back almost at the beginning.

[Old Jarhead]

Go figure- looks like the data sticker has gone missing.

[Old Jarhead]

“Data”

[LCHIEN]

you can edit posts. I edited it for you. Admin Loring

The saw was probably used to murder someone and cut up the body. I read criminals will file the serial number off guns so its not traceable. :-)

[LCHIEN]

Judging by the style of the power switch and the elevation handle, you saw is newer than 1993... they were made from 1991 to 2003 or so. Like I said the changes were few after 1993.

The original switch had a red and green alternate action pushbuttons, green to turn on red to turn off. The later ones like yours and mine have a cover over a rocker switch... pushing anywhere on the cover turns the saw off, and you have to lift the cover to turn it on, both safety features.

The original handwheel was black cast metal ring with a bar across the center, the two half moons created by the bar are open. The subsequent handwheel has the same diameter and black appearance but was plastic and the half moons were filled in solid, with labels indicating direction.

As such it would also have the updated slightly more powerful motor (15A vs 13A).
Its main weakness on the BT3000 model is the shims...the sliding bearing for the up-down motor housing height motion - they should be kept clean and lubricated with a dry lube; johnsons paste wax is the usual choice. There's lots of information about them on this site on older posts and articles.

[Old Jarhead]

Haha! Well as long as the crime cannot be traced back to me.
I tried to edit but it threw me an error…probably user error,

I’ve read quite a bit on the site and had surmised it was probably a later gen but obviously not a “3100.” Hope you’re right about it possibly having the 15a motor.
just a few notes, no prior owner had “painted the red line”…(so I did last night) however someone(s?) prior to me had “joined the club.” From the looks of the mitre fence - they were gold star members.
i’m going to learn all I can on the site before I start pestering you guys with questions. I’ve already read one of the channels. (I like to read/learn new things so…)
I think I’m going to need to buy a few things (like maybe a miter fence) ..,and the rip fence won’t lock- I already disassembled it and figured out that the roller holder (part #7 from Fig 61: rip fence assembly) is cracked so only one of the 2 screws holds. I think I remember reading where someone was machining and selling them.
so far I’m very pleased with the saw, and frankly amazed at the accuracy of the miters I was able to achieve. Slower than a traditional sliding/compound miter saw- but it works.
I’m also very impressed with the dust control and the fact that I was able to plug in an outlet adapter to the saw so that I was then able to plug my shop vac in and have it come on when I turn the saw on.
I can see why this thing had (has?) a cult following, I know I’m late to the party but I’ll gladly join.
Thanks for all the help so far.

[LCHIEN]

If you haven't read it yet, the BT3FAQ should be quite helpful.

[Old Jarhead]

I've read much of the FAQ, it is quite a doc. Now I'm on a hunt to fix my rip fence. upon closer inspection, its definitely been dropped. Am I remembering incorrectly?- that there was someone making those roller holders..? looking at it, it does seem like a complex piece to be made aftermarket. I'm thinking I'm going to have to buy a whole new fence when someone is parting out a saw...

[Old Jarhead]

found one- $85!...oh boy
Then I found the machined aluminum ones for $49.
I love youtube...

[LCHIEN]

found one- $85!...oh boy

Don't get the used plastic OEM part, its destined to fail. See if you can find the machined aluminum ones they make.
Probably less than $85.

Here! Yeah only $29.50 and it will last forever. I have one works great.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/29580932232...OcAAOSwWrFf~cY w&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4GbAM8X6StAsZWvoI6Dcjvdb2 Bg xLrE7hBZXAh1dqulzsawYk2Zi0bhfq2Iir%2F4nQhWBVnqe%2F k6sX50K4ZIgQc3mHrPZnA5bQl1BC8ZU7BEc%2BzsBFiz1aPI9R uKbm8UCdg2LPgn1AByWPOi7hH0G3830EN4QOyQzLZM9id5We4v LPoM%2FTCdvjblOJ2d%2F5WL2VVuRTids4OvusBafZQPT5nTya iwlCnkViFQ5BDPMA9NQrqNTdPIqMS%2Bh1nzdOGIK7s0I0bpRx Z3MsieuourThgPBAXUAOFDkbkOwUCV2mLMm%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR4 Kn3IGeYw

Its called the roller holder

[Old Jarhead]

Thats the one I found and will order

[LCHIEN]

You need undamaged roller wheel, wheel axle pin, roll pin for the clamper, and clamper from the old roller holder

[Dedpedal]

Welcome to the site. This is full of valuable tips,info and advice. I currently have two working saws and one parts saw. Keep a lookout on marketplace for ones that are for sale cheap. They usually run well or good for parts.

[Old Jarhead]

Thanks guys. Other life stuff has kept me from making much progress- although I did get the machined aluminum part for end of fence. All other related parts transferred over and what a difference that has made. Next I’m on the hunt for the accessory miter slots (will probably have to make my own- I did see a good thread on that here.) this saw will set next to my radial arm saw and act as an extension. I’m going to need miter slots even though I’m fast becoming a fan of the SMT.
now it’s off to the faq’s for router info.
i’d like to try and leverage as much as I can out of this system before I go buying a standalone router table.

[GrumpyDad]

the accessory miter slots - I have a couple to sell.