Router table

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  • Router table

    Hello, I am more of a diyer than a woodworker but I do play around. I am in the market for a router table. I usually drive over to my dads to get what I need done but I think it is time to get my own.

    I have narrowed it down to three different Router tables .
    I want to stay in the 500 dollar range.
    The Kreg
    http://www.rockler.com/kreg-complete...n-router-table

    And the other two are both made by Rockler. They both include a lift which the Kreg does not.

    http://www.rockler.com/pro-phenolic-...fx-router-lift

    high-pressure-laminate-router-table-fence-stand-and-fx-router-lift

    I am leaning towards one of the two rockles due to the lift. My dad gets 10 percent off rockler which would only apply to the cheaper one because it wont work on sale prices.

    What would you guys pick?


    Sent from my HTC 10


  • #2
    I think everyone has their own preferences for table material and certainly the options offer some good choices with regard to fences, lifts, and even things like T-slot channels, etc.

    At the time I decided to go with a bigger and better table than the small aaluminum Ryobi combo kit I had purchased in 2003, there were some fairly expensive choices and most were out of reach of my meager allowance. I decided on the Rockler laminate table top with fence, which was about $150 at the time. I had a newly purchased Ridgid 2-base router which allowed for through-the-plate depth adjustment with the included T-handle.

    The fence had a T-slot cut into the face and thus allowed for some accessories like finger board hold-downs, stop blocks, etc. I believe it came with an adjustable safety guard over the cutter area and I bought the optional kit which included three finger-boards and a vacuum attachment which located behind the fence at the split. I think the aluminum mounting plate was about $50. (that has to be matched to the specific router). I had to drill a hole in it to align with the depth adjustment mechanism.

    In any case, I made my own leg stand out of scrap 2 x 4 stock, mounted 3" lockable casters, and a couple of shelves and it's all worked out quite nicely for less than $300, accessories included. BTW, the leg set is built with mortise and tenon joints, using through tenons that are wedge-locked in place. It's easy to knock down. The table top isn't hard fastened, but used high-friction, rubber-like drawer liner that holds the top in place. It can be just lifted off, but I have yet to have it move on me during use. In operation, I just wheel it into a workable position in my tiny, little basement shop and then store it back in a corner when done. Oh, almost forgot to mention, I added one of Rockler's paddle switches which the router plugs into... really good to have that big paddle to shut the router of quickly, just in case!

    CWS
    Last edited by cwsmith; 12-31-2016, 08:59 PM.
    Think it Through Before You Do!

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    • #3
      my quick observation:
      There is only one link to a Rockeler table, don't see the other.

      THe Kreg is thicker and therefore better. If the table ever warps, you are SOL. Almost 50% thicker!
      The Kreg comes with three insert rings, the Rockler, just one, kind chintzy for a $550 table.
      I have a Woodpecker router table with a Jessem lift. Made the legs myself.
      I Never use the Miter slot parallel across the front, FWIW. I use two home built fences and I have an Incra incremental fence for when I need it.So I'm not sure of the value of the T-square fence on the Kreg.
      Router lift I have (A Jessem) is definitely nicer than using the routers height setting, but I had no real problem before, its just more convenient than reaching below the table to turn the vernier knob and the operate the lock. But I have a Bosch 1617 which does not require turning the whole router as some do. If you have to rotate the router to make height changes, a lift will definitely be much more convenient. With the router heigh adjustment, every once in a whiile I would forget to lock the router after adjustment. That would make a tiny difference in centering and height
      . With the router lifts, I think none of them use a lock after you adjust them, the fit is pretty close tolerance it doesn't need to be locked.That's a bit of a plus.

      .If you've used a router before, like it sounds like, you should know what features you use the most and what problems you want to solve.
      Another thing, is that I added the lift many years after using a normal plate. I was smart enough to use a widely used cutout which allowed me choice of multiple lifts with plate.There are a few different plate cutouts.If you opt to wait, then make sure your table cutout gives you some options. I got my lift on a really good clearance sale.
      Last edited by LCHIEN; 01-01-2017, 01:09 AM.
      Loring in Katy, TX USA
      If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
      BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

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      • #4
        Do you already have a router? If so, make sure whatever lift you select is compatible with that motor - the lift is designed for a specific diameter motor. Otherwise, there is an extra cost for an adapter ring. If you don't already have the router then you'll want to make sure whatever router/motor you buy works with the lift you select.

        Both of those kits are reasonable. Personally though I'm not a fan of "open stand" leg kits - for most hobbyist woodworkers, shop space and especially storage space is at a premium. So anything that uses precious floor space without providing some sort of storage is a no-no in my shop. Also, both of the units you've linked don't have any sort of box around the router - you'll find such setups spew dust everywhere. It's fairly easy to make a thin plywood box to attach to the underside of the table... but it's also easy to make a whole cabinet - with drawers or just shelves + doors - to support the table top and provide a boxed-in area around the router for dust collection too. A shop-vac hose port at the rear of the box (near the bottom) with a "Y" going to a port behind the mouse-hole in the fence, will capture the majority of router table dust. Later on, if you upgrade to a full dust collection system (i.e. 4 inch hoses instead of the 2 1/4 or 2 1/2 inch shop vac hoses) you can simply enlarge the port in the box. If it were me, I'd buy one of the tabletop + lift kit + fence packages and make my own cabinet to support the whole shebang. The price difference between such a kit, and the ones you posted with the leg sets, is pretty big - those seem to be expensive legs! That'd buy a fair bit of quality plywood or other cabinet material and some good double-locking casters.

        mpc

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        • #5
          Thank you for the helpful replies. I. Went with the kreg router table and a portnr cable 892 .

          I plan on cutting a shelf and making a box to collect saw dust around the router.

          Sent from my HTC 10

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          • #6
            I want to show what it looks like now.

            Sent from my HTC 10

            Attached Files

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Chadwilliam1 View Post
              I want to show what it looks like now.
              Looks kinda like mine did - the table top is a magnet for anything and everything not router related!
              Hank Lee

              Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!

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              • #8
                Correct, I am building a mitre saw table now and need all the flat space I can get.

                Sent from my HTC 10

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                • #9
                  Looks nice!
                  Bill in Buena Park

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                  • #10
                    Looks nice. I went through several before arriving at my current one - which I believe will be my last.

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