Greetings

[milobloom]

I am new to the site and to the 3100, and wanted to say hello. This is quite a site... I'd been here through Google searches several times before I realized that this was a site actually dedicated to this particular saw, and was quite pleased to realize that.

It seems usually I buy something and then eventually see something better I should have bought. I got my 3100 in August because of the sale going on at the time at Home Depot. I got the base assembled that week, but then life happened and I didn't get the rest of the saw assembled until Christmas. Now as I get ready to get started on it, I'm finding nothing but excellent reviews as far as saws in this price range are concerned.

I'm getting ready to start in on the Woodsmith entertainment center (http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product...nment%20center), with lots of scrap lumber to make test cuts upon before I cut the good stuff. I've seen a lot of information on this site, but just want to confirm a couple things:

1) If I go through the setup procedures as outlined in the manual, will the saw essentially be well-tuned and ready to go?

2) I bought a Grrr-Ripper to use with this. I can't see any way to use it with the blade guard in place. Also, I've seen numerous tips from people here about filing down those **** sword-like pawls, etc. All legal crap aside -- is it okay to use a Grr-ripper tool with this saw and not have the blade guard on?

3) Any other tips anyone has.

Thanks in advance for the help!

[gmack5]

Welcome Brian,

Congratulations on the acquisition of your BT3100 and welcome to the "family".

The "Pawls", as you mentioned in your original post, can really be nasty! A lot of the guys have dulled them a bit, covered them with Duct Tape, or removed them all together.
Another option is to replace the Stock unit with a "Shark Guard" and use Feather Boards to help control your Workpiece while cutting.

One of the first things you need to do, after you get your BT3100 Saw assembled, is following your Owner's Manual, go thru the entire set-up proceedure, step by step, in the sequence laid out in the Manual. Each set up proceedure builds on the preceeding proceedure, so you MUST keep them in sequence.
Usually the Saw is set up properly, right out of the box, but you should still check it as this gets you familiar with all the adjustments on the saw and assures you that everything is as it should be.

Here's some free plans that'll take keep you busy for a while. http://www.woodworkersworkshop.com/r...ex.php?cat=102

And here's some additional information about your Saw that you may find useful.

Regardless of what you've read or others have told you, NEVER use any wax or lubricant on your saw that contains Silicone, this includes all automobile waxes and polishes and most spray-on furniture polishes. The reason is simple, most of them contain Silicones and they will make your projects difficult to finish.
Silicones repell liquid, making "fish eyes" in your finishes, this will force you to remove the Silicones from your project and start over. That stuff (Silicone) migrates all over every where, don't ask me how, it just does.
If you put it in one place, eventually it will be all over the
entire saw. Your best bet is to use a "dry" lubricant, such as Teflon (PTFE), Powdered Graphite, or Candle Wax for the Raising/Lowering and Tilt mechanisms below the table top.
Then use either Johnson's Paste Wax, Minwax's "Finishing Wax" or Butcher's Wax on the working surfaces, table tops (All three of them) and the Rip Fence.
Do NOT Wax the Front and Rear rails or the Miter Fence. As a mater of fact, you may want to glue 220 grit sand-paper to the front face of the Miter Fence, cause you don't WANT things to slide on there.

You might also want to check out the "Articles" section on the www.BT3central.com site. Lots of good maintenance information on your saw and some of the Jigs and Fixtures that BT3Central members and others have designed for it. Located here: http://www.bt3central.com/articles/ The only thing you'll need to access the information is a recent copy of the Adobe Reader (It can be downloaded from the BTcentral site). One of the Articles mentioned is a "Check List", written by Jim Frye. You can find it here: https://www.sawdustzone.org/articles...nce-check-list

This list contains all the different areas on your saw that need to be periodically inspected or given some sort of special attention. In other words, a "Preventative Maintanence Check List" or PM. Performing this PM on a monthly basis would be a good idea. One of the other things you'll find there is an on-line copy of the User's Manual in downloadable pdf format (a handy thing to have).

Something you might think about is the use of a set of Draftsman's Triangles instead of the Carpenter's Square that they show in the Owner's Manual for setting up your saw.
An accurate Carpenter's Square is almost a myth!
A good one will cost you quite a bit of money, $40 - $75, or more. I would recommend that you consider using a pair of Draftsman's 30 -60 and 45 degree triangles instead. You'll find they're not near as expensive and are far more accurate than a run-of-the-mill Carpenter's Square. The 30 -60 triangle should have one 12" leg and the other leg would be 9" long. The 45 degree triangle should have at least 8" legs on either side of the 90 degree corner. That way either one can be put up against the side of the Saw Blade without touching the saw teeth.

One of the other "tricks" that I've discovered is to take a piece of "Wax" paper, fold it several times and rub it in the grooves that the "T" nuts that lock your Rails in place ride in. Makes the Rails move smooth as Butter.

Last, but not least, don't forget to paint the RED line!
It's a line that extends the line-of-sight from the saw blade to the front edge of the table to remind you NOT to let your Miter Fence or your FINGERS get in the way of the saw blade. Just put red paint, nail polish, or what ever, in the grove that extends towards the operator from the front edge of the saw blade.

[leehljp]

Welcome Brian and congratulations on the saw. Enjoy it. I kow what you mean about life happens - woodwork time takes a back seat.

For most people, once the saw is set up properly, it maintains its settings fine. Mine maintained a perfect setup even after a move.

[LarryG]

Welcome, Brian. You're right, this is one nifty little corner of the online universe. The folks here are not only knowledgeable but also about as pleasant a group as any you'll find.

On your GRR-Ripper questions, I assume you mean the blade guard interferes when the workpiece segment nearest the rip fence is so narrow the entire GRR-Ripper won't pass between the fence and the guard. In that situation, you're correct: either the guard or the GRR-Ripper has to go. The choice of which one it'll be is up to the individual user and his personal comfort level. FWIW I'll tell you that I have a GRR-Ripper, and when ripping narrow strips I feel a lot more safe, a lot more protected against a kickback problem, using the GRR-Ripper with the guard off than I do using featherboards with the guard on. But if ever there was a place where the old "YMMV" thing applied, this is it.

[Ken Weaver]

Welcome aboard Brian. Make sawdust and be safe.

[Stytooner]

Welcome aboard, Brian. Chances are that you will like your new saw.
I recently read a thread on another Forum that had quite a few disgruntled former BT owners. The biggest issue that nearly all of them had was that the saw doesn't hold its alignment. I understand that some saws can have issues when others are perfect out of the box. The alignment proceedure is a bit different with this saw. It takes a few tries to get it into your head. Did mine anyway. I have had two of these BT's and rarely ever have to adjust it back to perfect alignment. They just stay that way. I find that if I use a certain proceedure to lock down my SMT on the rails after I have moved or bumped it, that it is still in perfect alignment. I pull the front two tabs forward and lock them down first. Then lock the rear tabs. It works visa versa too. The key is using outward tension on the tabs just before locking down. This lets them lock down at the same time releasing any twist and lining up the same way everytime. If it looks like your SMT fence comes mal aligned sometimes, try this proceeduer. It works great for me.
If you are going to remove the blade guard, at least use a splitter or riving knife on this particular saw. It will work great in conjunction with your gripper for those times when you can't use your blade guard.
I look forward to seeing the progress on your entertainment center.

[monte]

Welcome to the group Brian! Enjoy your new saw!

[Ken Massingale]

Welcome to the forum Brian.
ken

[Pappy]

Welcome to the Asylum, Brian! You might consider adding the Shark Guard. I don't have one, yet, for several reasons, but it is the best accessory you can add to the saw.

[jethro]

Hi, Brian! It's about time another Delawarean joined the fray! Welcome to the forum, and be sure to keep us posted on the progress of your entertainment center.

[germdoc]

Welcome!

FWIW, I've had mine for 1 1/2 ys. and have not had any alignment problems. That I know of. Not that I've checked. But everything more or less seems to be square and straight. Seriously, it's one of the more impressive features of this saw, that it stays in alignment so consistently.

BTW, wasn't Milo the penguin from Bloom County?

[WEG]

Hi Milobloom;
First off, welcome to the world of the BT3x00. Great saws! Now as for those pawls, sharp heh? I also have a Gripper and it's a wonderful safety tool. I use it all the time when ripping to run the stock through and keep things from kicking back on you. It gives you good control. Like everything you do with any power tool...Think about it before you do it and try to minimize any problems. Keep your blade as low as possible, about a tooth thickness or so above the wood. How much would you like to cut into your hand IF you ran across the blade with the wood during the rip? Hmmm? Just an idea to scare you...but seriously, think about what you are going to do and if it just doesn't seem safe enough, don't do it. Also get a good woodworking book on tablesaws and read as much as you can before you try out something new to you. There are many of us here who use their saws without the Ryobi guard. Many have bought Lee's Sharkguard to replace it. So I guess when doing rips and making a decision to use the Gripper without the guard or a good push stick with the guard, the choice depends upon a lot of things about the cut and also your best judgement. Just think it out before you try it and if in doubt, don't do it...ask us most of us have most of our fingers on most of our hands.
Be safe..
WEG