Connecting extension rails

[fim]

I was reading the FAQ about the extension rails.

It mentions connecting the extension rails without the extension hardware using "Kirby's method". The link from the FAQ seems dead. Is it still viewably anywhere?

Is this a worthwhile approach, or should I just buy the connecting hardware?

thanks

[LCHIEN]

I was reading the FAQ about the extension rails.

It mentions connecting the extension rails without the extension hardware using "Kirby's method". The link from the FAQ seems dead. Is it still viewably anywhere?

Is this a worthwhile approach, or should I just buy the connecting hardware?

thanks

Kirby's method was to make Two aluminum "angle iron" bars, approx 4 to 8" long and 1.5 x 1.5 to 2" x 2" on a side.
On each one drill four holes on each side aligning with the t-slots on the inside and underside of the rails.

Use some bolts and t-nuts to attach everything together.

It's not quite so floppy as the ryobi parts kit for this which has four flat bars rather than two angle-irons. Once installed, aligned, and tightened, there's probably not much difference, though.

If you don't want to buy the original ryobi parts which, with shipping, I'm sure are quite expensive for what you get (four metal strips and some bolts and nuts with a dash of convenience),

You can go to the hardware store and get some flat strips or some angle iron, and go to
T-nuts.com for the T-nuts. If you can find both, the angle iron as i said will be easier to get aligned.

[bigsteel15]

Not intending to hijack the thread, but on a similar subject, I was thinking of attaching my tops and router table using the inside slots and angle and a folding outfeed table using the outside (front?) or bottom (if it's strong enough) slot of the back rail.
Do you think I will regret not having any of these slots totally free?

[Popeye]

See my post and pictures about halfway down. http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=20805 Pat

[mschrank]

Not intending to hijack the thread, but on a similar subject, I was thinking of attaching my tops and router table using the inside slots and angle and a folding outfeed table using the outside (front?) or bottom (if it's strong enough) slot of the back rail.
Do you think I will regret not having any of these slots totally free?

I attached my folding outfeed table using the outside slot and 6 of Jeff's smallest nuts (tell me you're not snickering right now) and three T-strap hinges.

I was a bit leery given that the nuts and corresponding bolts are so small, but it's held up fine. In fact, in addition to the 3' x 4' x 1/2" ply top and legs, I often end up using it for an assembly table.

I also like the fact that I can pretty quickly loosen the screws and slide the table to one side if needed for SMT clearance.

[wreckwriter]

Another option is foldable hinges, also available from Jeff. I have mine, and my rails, just waiting for time to get her done...

[RodKirby]

Repost

Repost from August 2004:

WT Connectors – BT3000


Well, these worked out fine. Guys, these are not difficult make – all you need is a template, Drill press, 1/8” and 5/16” drill bits. (DP speed 2,200 RPM). If you are uncomfortable working
with metal (I am), remember that Aluminum is light and “soft”, not like steel, heavy and hard.

Two pieces of aluminum angle – 2” x 2” (external), ¼” thick, 6” long.

The 5/16” holes are 1-1/8” from each end and located (measured inside the angle):

Front: 7/8” in for underneath, 21/32” for the vertical pair

Rear: 7/8” in for all holes

To locate the hole, I used a template (see pic). It’s fairly easy to set up – just make sure you do it carefully. Chuck a 1/8” bit and use the template to locate where to drill. Remove the template before you start drilling. To start, touch gently with the bit and it will “dimple” the aluminum enough to prevent wandering. Don’t hurry. You can drill 6 of the 8 holes (7/8” in)
without altering the setup. After the 1/8” holes are drilled, swap to the 5/16” bit and complete the holes – if you’re gentle, and hold the aluminum firmly, there is very little “chatter” as you begin the hole. I found I did not need to use clamps.

Countersink the holes slightly, and cleanup with steel wool.

[fim]

Thanks.
No DP, but I still might give it a try.

On the placement of the bracket, I assume its mounted with the screws facing the floor and the inside of the saw. So the 3rd picture seen by sitting in the front of the table and looking up at the back rail?

And I guess I still need 8 t-nuts and bolts/washers.

[RodKirby]

Thanks.
No DP, but I still might give it a try.

On the placement of the bracket, I assume its mounted with the screws facing the floor and the inside of the saw. So the 3rd picture seen by sitting in the front of the table and looking up at the back rail?

And I guess I still need 8 t-nuts and bolts/washers.

You're right about the direction of the pic.

I used the original Ryobi mounting nuts/bolts - 5/16" nuts in the rail slots, then 3/4" (short) x 5/16" bolts/washers thru the aluminum bracket into the nuts. Takes a bit of "fiddling" to find the nuts.

[bigsteel15]

Everything in Rod's shop is so neat and shiny and pretty...
Sorry Pat.

Mike, I wasn't snickering until you said I was.
Jeff could change his website address to Jeffsnuts.com

[steve-norrell]

Folding table extensions

Another option is foldable hinges, also available from Jeff. I have mine, and my rails, just waiting for time to get her done...

I would also like to use hinges to attach rails to both sides of my table. One side would have legs, but I would like to other side to be open underneath. I have ordered a wide table kit (from M & D) and hinges (from T-nuts) to extend my table about 30 inches on one side and 11 - 12 inches on the other. I will cut the rails as needed.

There is a ton of excellent suggestions here, but none quite exactly what I need.

I am looking for advice on using hinges but being able to lock the rails in the up position. I assume the hinges would occupy the bottom t-slot on the front and rear rail so angle iron (aluminum), as shown earlier in this thread, would not work in my case.

All help welcomed.

[wreckwriter]

I would also like to use hinges to attach rails to both sides of my table. One side would have legs, but I would like to other side to be open underneath. I have ordered a wide table kit (from M & D) and hinges (from T-nuts) to extend my table about 30 inches on one side and 11 - 12 inches on the other. I will cut the rails as needed.

There is a ton of excellent suggestions here, but none quite exactly what I need.

I am looking for advice on using hinges but being able to lock the rails in the up position. I assume the hinges would occupy the bottom t-slot on the front and rear rail so angle iron (aluminum), as shown earlier in this thread, would not work in my case.

All help welcomed.

The rails will be "locked" up by extending the folding legs.

[steve-norrell]

The rails will be "locked" up by extending the folding legs.

Thanks for the input. However, I was hoping to NOT use legs on both sides. I prefer that the short side (about 11 - 12 inches) be free standing so I am looking for a way to 'lock' the rails up.

I understand the use of legs on the long side, which will be about 30 inches long. Regards.

[wreckwriter]

Thanks for the input. However, I was hoping to NOT use legs on both sides. I prefer that the short side (about 11 - 12 inches) be free standing so I am looking for a way to 'lock' the rails up.

I understand the use of legs on the long side, which will be about 30 inches long. Regards.

Gotcha. Sorry, don't have an answer beyond making that side non-folding.

[Jeff]

I attached my folding outfeed table using the outside slot and 6 of Jeff's smallest nuts (tell me you're not snickering right now) and three T-strap hinges.

Hmmm, I wonder, how do you know those are the smallest?

Maybe I should rethink this before I click submit repl.....