BT3x00 Rip Fence roller / clamper assembly aftermarket.

[dbhost]

Yeah,. now I know why my original had fallen out. The pin just sort of wobbles around in there. The eBay seller does sell the aluminum roller and pin if your holder is still in good shape. Mine wasn't...

[Dedpedal]

Good video. Very informative. One of the fences I’m working with today is missing the pin. Now I know why.

[dirtmover]

I'm tending to agree about the roller getting worn. I printed a replacement but will probably make an aluminum one if I ever feel the need. In the meantime I turned a new pin with a very thin head which is inserted from the back before the clamp is assembled behind it.

[dbhost]

Loring is absolutely correct about the roller axle. Plastic wheel tends to get wallowed out and the pin falls out the aluminum wheel of the aftermarket version is a huge upgrade.

Speaking of here is the video I was speaking of making.

https://youtu.be/5AMKGPjYtMA?si=UZJfW7PXNnBvlIQz

[LCHIEN]

My recollection is that the axle pin OEM is metal. and the roller wheel s plastic. The axle was a slip fit to the holes in the replacement metal holder, but a snug fit in the roller wheel which will keep the pin from sliding out.
If there is concern about the axle slipping out, its constrained on the backside by the clamper. Before mounting the clamper, some quality tape can be used to cover both ends of the axle.to the roller holder body.

[dbhost]

I am finalizing my assembly video. It is rough but gets the point across, I hope... Probably post it later tonight. Honestly might as well if you can get the completed assembly.

[Dedpedal]

I ordered one last night for around $45 on Amazon. I was impressed with the first one so my other saw gets one as well.

[dirtmover]

I got the unloaded holder. Maybe the fully loaded one has a different custom axle but the metal axle that came with my BT3000 slides through the new holder with ease. Definitely not a friction fit on either the restrained or unrestrained side.

[dbhost]

I need to get up off my tailbone and assemble the spare I got. But the one I already assembled, the axle pin on the aftermarket unit is metal not plastic and is friction fit in the unrestrained side, tap it in and it will not slide out that direction, the other side is restrained by the lever which is held in via the spring steel roll pin, which I can absolutely certify is a royal pain in the tail to remove... He could have used another roll pin but that would have made for a rough axle, and the point is not just to restrain the roller, but to give a bearing surface for the roller to move on..

[dirtmover]

Just received one of these today. I agree that it's nicely made even if a bit on the pricey side for what it is. Just a shame he didn't take the opportunity to design a better way to secure the roller pin. The slack fit of the original which he simply copied is prone to falling out.

[dbhost]

I have my camera charging, and will get after a quick video showing assembly of one of these this afternoon. I am up early for on call work and need to work this in around the job that pays my bills, but at least when I am done folks can see how this goes together.

[dbhost]

Ah, gotcha...

[LCHIEN]

I was sure you knew how roll pins work.
I was sort of documenting it for future BT3 saw fixers faced with the same problem.
In general I am posting lots of comments replies to document this saw and help keep it alive for another generation.
You may not have noticed but I am very active in starting the third party replacement parts thread forum and keeping it posted with all finds.

[dbhost]

Yes, I am very aware of how roll pins are supposed to work, Part of my issue is my punch while a flat tipped punch, was smaller than it should have been for the roll pin I was trying to drive. And yes I was backing it up, although every time I would strike the punch the plastic holder would flex I am sure taking a good amount of the energy, and my roll pin was encrusted with a fair amount of surface rust, once having been soaked with the penetrating oil and letting it just work its way it, driving the pin out was actually kind of easy...

[LCHIEN]

Usually roll pins are meant to be hard to get out. You usually on any mechanical assy using a roll pin need a mallet and punch just smaller in diameter, and you need to back up the assembly with a support that has a hole large enough to drive the pin into so it can exit unimpeded.

Actual roll pin for BT3000 clamper in roller holder assembly of rip fence

Its a hollow pin with a split side made of spring steel meant to be an interference fit; the spring tension keeps it expanded against the ID of the hole so that it stays put.
In the BT3, I think the clamper has the tight fit to retain the pin and the roller holder has oversized holes to allow the pin to rotate a little as designed, IIRC.

In the picture below, the end of the roll pin is seen at #14