BT3x00 Rip Fence roller / clamper assembly aftermarket.

[dbhost]

Just stumbled upon this beautiful roller holder / clamper assembly made from milled aluminum for the rip fence on the BT3x00 saws. Since mine is acting up I figured on replacing mine anyway. Looks pretty well made and the price is reasonable.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/296007201495?hash=item44eb6772d7:g:8ccAAOSwnZxf~cet&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwOQvZHKZfQ5GPBOfdlAuprFbqC%2FvuJvUMoXQzirH440sgEJaauksr4d6%2F6RCHf0ydHMmUMN%2F%2B%2BZGJw9Skg%2FnzSwGv%2FoxYNjPoGE3a6MyAryNBjSGqVlfqHRL51mjRlJ9ydelgqZZEyYzs6B5zrnmd9c%2BIrxRJB8fegcUGu%2FhtuNNyhhTvbQ%2FvRAwaeRp1pprZmeQaPlhpiqK9Fpa6t2hSLH3YiAlWq2dA%2FKFuEc9gFK6WZ142Iv2caZn2zISexHnDQ%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR6jc0rPzYg

[Dedpedal]

Just stumbled upon this beautiful roller holder / clamper assembly made from milled aluminum for the rip fence on the BT3x00 saws. Since mine is acting up I figured on replacing mine anyway. Looks pretty well made and the price is
https://www.ebay.com/itm/29600720149...Bk9SR6jc0rPzYg

I have one and don’t regret it a bit. I might buy one for my third BT saw

[leehljp]

I have one also. I found my "extra" plastic one today and just laughed at it. I wouldn't trade my aluminum one for anything!

[dbhost]

If you guys don't recall I posted a couple of days ago, maybe a week ago now about how to deal with the fence rolling issue. I found the roller itself on the blastic retainer just, well doesn't roll well. I figured this would solve that problem.

I have some tweaks and the multipurpose tall fence to build for the saw, that once done, I think I will be fine with the BT instead of forking over for a SawStop. Yes I would like the blade brake technology, but let's just see what we can do here...

[capncarl]

If your money is just burning a hole in your pocket, then SS douses that fire quickly. For most of us the BT saw is all we really need. Just have to be careful where you put your hands and not get in too much of a hurry.

[dbhost]

My issues with the BT are few, and include the plastic pieces where I feel metal should be... the aluminum clamper and set fence clamp fix most of that. The blade brake and Cast iron tables are the really attractive features of the SS...

I'm pretty well set up at this point. Just keep track of my digits.

[dbhost]

Well I found for certain where the fence issue is. The roll pin for the roller is missing... Not sure how that happened or when, but that explains why the fence slides like cr*p...The wheel appears to be in good shape, but the pin is missing. Now the question, is this pin a standard roll pin and if so I should just be able to match up the hole to a roll pin from the local Ace Hardware...

[LCHIEN]

My recollection is that its just a short piece of metal 1/4" rod, Press fit into place.
A longer, 1/4" roll pin is used for the clamper pin pivot.
A roll pin would probably work, if you get one the right length. It certainly won't fall out and will be OK if you got the metal roller holder for the rip fence; not sure I'd use a roll pin on plastic.
I have plenty of 1/4" aluminum rod if you want me to cut a piece the right length. Easy to mail.
A couple of pieces of Kapton tape over the ends will hold that roller axle in place and not slip out.

[dbhost]

I would greatly appreciate that. Do you have my address? I am not certain what Kapton tape is... Will have to look that up. EDIT. Looked it up, that stuff looks like what StewMac sells as shielding tape for teh pickup cavities for single coil guitars / basses to reject 60 cycle hum...

[LCHIEN]

Kapton is a a plastic material, we use it for high end electronic assemblies, tough, thin, its **** near indestructible temperature wise and very stable won't move or slide with age.
so do you have calipers to measure the length of the "box" that holds the roller? Which is the length I need to cut the rod. Including the supporting ends of course. Otherwise I'd have to take mine apart.

[LCHIEN]

Never mind, I found the stash of spares I have for my saw and measured them.

The "axle" is a snug fit in the roller and probably spins freely in the roller holder and being centered in the roller won't slide out the ends. Probably don't need the tape I suggested

The OEM Axle is 0.6795 long. and 0.248 dia.

In the mail tomorrow morning to Thistledown Dr. USPS first class mail envelope.

[dbhost]

What worries me is the missing axle pin. If it press fits the roller, perhaps my roller has a problem.

[LCHIEN]

What's the diameter of the ID hole in the roller you have? OEM roller?

[dbhost]

Loring, no clue. It is flopping around loose but still captive by the clamper. AND my calipers died. Or more specifically were killed... Need new one, Amazon will deliver tomorrow, OEM? Maybe. I remember fixing the fence after I bought it from LarryL which was the part of the saw impacted by the fire, I thought most of the damage was on the front of the fence and I replaced the plastic window thing, the handle and a few other bits, I just do not remember 100% if I redid the roller. I THINK I did, but that was 15 years or so ago now... I have slept since then and to be brutally honest, my memory isn't cooperating very well since Debi passed away. They call it widow brain but yeah my head turns to jello a bit more than I would like considering I work in a knowledge career field...

[dbhost]

The unloaded bracket and the miter fence bracket should be arriving today, the loaded bracket roller and pin (sold as a pair) will be arriving Tuesday. By the end of the week next week I should have a video done and posted about the process...

[dbhost]

WOW, the roll pin from the clamper is REALLY Hard to get out of this thing! Letting it soak in some penetrating oil for a bit...

[dbhost]

The penetrating oil did the trick. Quite a bit of rust on the roll pin making it swollen a bit from original. I honestly fail to see how the original axle for the roller could have possibly come out, but it is NOT here. How very wierd. I have a new aluminum roller coming from eBay on Tuesday so I will use that instead of the plastic stocker...

For anyone doing this job, the roll pin for the clamper is a LOT tougher to get out of there than it looks like, or at least on mine it was...

[LCHIEN]

Usually roll pins are meant to be hard to get out. You usually on any mechanical assy using a roll pin need a mallet and punch just smaller in diameter, and you need to back up the assembly with a support that has a hole large enough to drive the pin into so it can exit unimpeded.

Actual roll pin for BT3000 clamper in roller holder assembly of rip fence

Its a hollow in with a split side made of spring steel meant to be an interference fit; the spring tension keeps it expanded against the ID of the hole so that it stays put.
In the BT3, I think the clamper has the tight fit to retain the pin and the roller holder has oversized holes to allow the pin to rotate a little as designed, IIRC.

In the picture below, the end of the roll pin is seen at #14

[dbhost]

Yes, I am very aware of how roll pins are supposed to work, Part of my issue is my punch while a flat tipped punch, was smaller than it should have been for the roll pin I was trying to drive. And yes I was backing it up, although every time I would strike the punch the plastic holder would flex I am sure taking a good amount of the energy, and my roll pin was encrusted with a fair amount of surface rust, once having been soaked with the penetrating oil and letting it just work its way it, driving the pin out was actually kind of easy...

[LCHIEN]

I was sure you knew how roll pins work.
I was sort of documenting it for future BT3 saw fixers faced with the same problem.
In general I am posting lots of comments replies to document this saw and help keep it alive for another generation.
You may not have noticed but I am very active in starting the third party replacement parts thread forum and keeping it posted with all finds.

[dbhost]

Ah, gotcha...