I have sawn through my miter fence end caps frequently enough that I would like to replace one. I see lots of miter fences for sale, but not just end caps.
You know.... this is a common enough issue. I know I saw someone that made up replacement rail ends for both the BT3000 and BT3100, I'm not advenurous enough yet, but I might just try to make my own. Mine are bobbed off as well... It just hasn't been important enough to worry about yet.
Just wondering, did you "Paint The Red Line" on your saw yet? The recess of the ribs immediately in line with your blade should be painted, or in the case of mine, sharpied with red sharpie or paint. That is a sure indicator of the danger path... And if you pay attention to that you might end up with your miter fence tips not unintentionally shortened....
I have the Rod Kirby miter fence end caps he willed me after his famous Australian BT3 passed on. (to someone else, not away).
Easy to make your own as he did. He just added a couple of threaded holes to the fence..
Originals are out of production now. 3D printing is a possible solution if they have to look like the originals. I always disliked the fact that the originals were a hair out of alignment with the face of the extrusion, which is why I like Rods so much.
You can see also that I painted the red line... marking the groove where anything on the miter fence is "in the line of fire".
Here's a third suggestion for making some miter fence ends.
The T-slots in the top of the fence, the bottom and the back side are all a hair over 1 inch wide and a hair over 1/8th in thick.
You can pick up some 1" x 1/8" flat bar aluminum extrusion and cut about 2-3 inches pieces that will slip into the back T-slot or if you prefer the top or bottom.
Drill and thread a small set screw or even a machine screw into the bar to secure the bar to the fence. Leaving an inch or so extending out.
You just then need to secure a block of wood, beveled if you want, to the space between the end of the fence and in front of the bar.
I measured 1.9 something inches high and 1.5 something inches wide.
You can even laminate some stuff together if you don't have any scraps that wide.
This involve cutting no holes in your fence if you are squeamish about that.
this is not the miter fence but it shows how the flat bar fits into the rail system and is set with a set screw.
I designed and 3d printed some for my saw. If you know someone with a 3d printer, they should be able to make some for you. I posted my design on Printables - Not sure if I can post a link or not, so here goes: https://www.printables.com/model/203...iter-end-block
Anyone who has a 3d printer should know what to do based on that link. Each block takes about 2 hours to print and uses less than a dollar worth of PLA.
It took a few iterations to get the sizing right, but I'm really happy with mine. So happy that I threw my old chipped ones out. Printed in safety orange. For safety. Plus a little cap to make up for the overhangs that would be a pain to 3d print.
If you've got the filament and patience, you might want to make a run of those and put them up on Ebay, Etsy, or wherever. They'd sell. The 3D printed SMT slides are selling...
I mentioned on another post that our local public library has a technology dept? and will print items such as this for a nominal fee. It would be worth a visit to see if your local library offers the same.
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