Mitre Fence Holder

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  • Mitre Fence Holder

    found this:

    Printed it for my BT3100 - fitted perfectly.


  • #2
    Looks great! 3D printing is great for obsolete and out of production parts! Wish I had a desire to give it a try, but I still have too many “want to do” things ahead of learning that.
    I am a little jealous of those that do 3D printing.
    Hank Lee

    Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!


    • #3
      Excellent - this is what this additional new forum was for, to share the sources of third party machined or printed parts or DIY 3D-printable plans.

      Thanks for sharing.
      Loring in Katy, TX USA
      If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
      BT3 FAQ -


      • #4
        Is this an open source printed part?


        • #5
          It's free for download


          • #6
            When I first got my BT3K, I thought there were several parts that were sort of fragile looking. Later on, I filled them with #7 1/2 shot and epoxy. The miter fence holder is solid now and weighs well over a pound.
            Jim Frye
            The Nut in the Cellar.
            ”Sawdust Is Man Glitter”


            • #7
              And of course, don't forget it is quite possible to build one entirely of wood as demonstrated years ago by Rod Kirby:
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              Loring in Katy, TX USA
              If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
              BT3 FAQ -


              • nicer20
                nicer20 commented
                Editing a comment
                So beautiful !!

              • GrumpyDad
                GrumpyDad commented
                Editing a comment
                How do the endcaps attach? T-nut riding the track?

              • LCHIEN
                LCHIEN commented
                Editing a comment
                GrumpyDad, look at this photo
                you will see a FH screw, the screw goes into a tapped hole he made in the miter fence.
                Last edited by LCHIEN; 09-27-2021, 05:37 PM.

            • #8
              Hey LCHIEN I'm in the process of trying to create a replacement for the miter fence holder due to the negligence of not researching the saw before buying it second hand lol. But I came across a couple of your posts mentioning the version Rod Kirby had given you for safekeeping lol. Originally during the beginning of the drawing board period of this project I was figuring out: 1. If it would be efficient 2. If it would be Easier, (but mainly) 3. If I even had the skills to carve it out of one block of wood. Having came across your posts with pictures of Kirby's version I'm now under the impression that your way would be MUCH easier and actually practical. So I was wondering if possible....whenever its most convenient for you, if you could take measurements of the part as a whole? Or even better if you could tell me the measurements of each part/ piece of wood?
              I'm so very thankful for even just the pictures alone, I'm already eternally grateful. God knows how long it would have taken me had I not stumbled upon your posts. xD

              MUCH appreciation,


              • #9
                I will address this shortly

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                Looking at the drawing on the right I will call these pieces Top plate, Body, and T-Bar. I hope that is sufficient.

                Measurements to follow in edits later.
                The bolt is a standard ANSI 5/16-18 hex head bolt. length to come later. And the knob any hardware store has 5/16-18 threaded plastic knobs in a variety of styles, with either through holes or closed end and round knurled or 5-star (like the original) styles.

                The location of the hole is somewhat important as it sets the forward and backwards position of the miter fence which is fixed by the black pivot piece on the bottom of the miter fence. Incorrectly positioned the fence will still work but the zero miter angle position reading will be off. Not a total disaster but its more convenient for the scale to be right and not have to measure and check every time.

                I am in the middle of cleaning all the stuff stored under the saw (TS jigs and fences) so the Kirby miter holder is buried under all the stuff piled on top. So far I found three featherboards, tall rip fence, long and short rip fence combo, two rip fence spacer blocks, three worn out dowel cutting jigs, a 3/8 and 1/4 home made box joint jig, several other unrelated jigs, a 15 degree jig, two purchased shallow angle taper rip jigs, a box of BT3 parts and the User nut and bolt kit. The original miter fence and miter clamp, A couple of auxiliary miter fence extensions and two more pieces of miter rip fence extrusion I forgot I had. There's still a couple of jigs I have yet to look at.

                I have made the measurements and made a hand sketch. I hope you can figure it out, if you have questions, ask here.
                The width is not too important, the really key thing I think is an accurate located and perfectly vertical hole for the bolt which I indicated should be 15/64ths from the face of the block that faces the miter fence. This will make the zero settings on the SMT work right. Note that this leaves a 1/16th inch wall thickness on the hole so its important it be straight and located properly. You will find the measurements in the PDF file I just attached.

                How I would make this: Make the top plate and the block and then glue them together; then put the screws in it for long term strength. Rod has three screws -one hidden under the flat washer, but that seems to be overkill. Then flip it over, mark and drill the through bolt hole and drill on the drill press. Use a small drill and a starting dimple to precisely locate a pilot hole and then enlarge.
                The T-bar I would consider making it in two pieces of equal thickness and stack them. I'd consider using some 1/8" thick x 1" aluminum bar I have but I could do it from some wood. If you mill it on the table saw, work with long pieces at least 12" and then cut to length!

                Attached Files
                Last edited by LCHIEN; 09-28-2021, 04:51 PM.
                Loring in Katy, TX USA
                If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
                BT3 FAQ -


                • #10
                  Wow quite a large pile to have to rummage through so I don't blame you if you have to carve out A MONTH to go through it xD but no seriously its no rush I'm fumbling my way through parting it together but with many mistakes. no shame.


                  • #11
                    I still have not made the measurements on the wooden one but here are three for sale today on eBay
                    including two original plastic ones with bolt and knob plus one machined polished aluminum replacement which I hear is nice.
                    That said a wooden one is not that hard to make.

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                    Attached Files
                    Last edited by LCHIEN; 09-28-2021, 12:22 AM.
                    Loring in Katy, TX USA
                    If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
                    BT3 FAQ -


                    • #12
                      Posted the measurements of the Kirby Miter Fence Holder in post #9 of this thread as a PDF attachments along with some more text in the post with construction suggestions.
                      Loring in Katy, TX USA
                      If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
                      BT3 FAQ -