I had a bit of aggravation recently trying to cut a bunch of shelves to the same length by measuring each one and cutting. There has to be a better way. So I came up with this. It worked so well that I’m going to make another out of some hard wood. Any thoughts on how to make it better?
Extended stop block
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Should work fine as long as the stop is firmly locked so it doesn't move. If it works for you, then it should be just fine. I made a stop block that attaches to either the rip fence or the SMT fence depending on the length of the cutoff. I use it in conjunction sometimes with the wide crosscut fence I made for the SMT also.
https://www.sawdustzone.org/articles...truction-notes
Last edited by Jim Frye; 02-13-2021, 02:25 PM.Jim Frye
The Nut in the Cellar.
”Sawdust Is Man Glitter” -
Should work fine as long as the stop is firmly locked so it doesn't move. If it works for you, then it should be just fine. I made a stop block that attaches to either the rip fence or the SMT fence depending on the length of the cutoff. I use it in conjunction sometimes with the wide crosscut fence I made for the SMT also.
https://www.sawdustzone.org/articles...truction-notes
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I made a great stop block for my RAS fence a few years ago. It's just about perfect for my use on that tool. Of course an RAS is a completely different tool, perhaps perfect for cross cuts; but, looking at your back stop made for a cross-cut sled on a table saw, I imagined my design being applied to that.
That would entail putting a T-channel across the top of your back-stop fence and applying a measuring tape to the channel. The stop employs a sliding block with an indicator (made from a scrap piece of clear past on which I scribed a line with a razer knife) against the measuring tape and a T-bolt with a locking know riding in that T-channel and thus adjustable and lockable across the back-stop. The actual stop is simply another block (I used 3/4 x 3/4) which is screwed to the indicator block (on that side of the RAS, it has to reach under the motor to reach the blade)
Advantage for my application is that I don't have to use a retractable tape measure or other solid ruler to measure and then mark. I simply adjust the sliding block to the right measurement, lock it in place, position my stock against the adjustable stop, and then feed the cut. Simple and I can cut one piece or any other quantity.
Now imagine my fixed RAS fence as being the back-stop fence you are using on your sled. Mount the T-track channel on either the right or left of that and then I think that I could use exactly the same adjustable block and simply cut it to have it accurate. Only challenge of course is my fence is a bit longer than yours and as such I can cut about a four-ft length and I can make it longer give the room. For yours, it has to be able to sllide, but I think you'll get the idea.
The beauty is that to ensure the accuracy you simply position the stop on zero, and cut a new stop should the one I have show any shrinkage. With the table saw, you would simply position your back-stop fence so it is over the blade and adjust your moveable stop accordingly. Of course you wouldn't have to use a longer stop like I did, because you're not reaching under the motor. Just make the add the T-channel along whatever side of your fence you wish, make the sliding measuring block and attach a short replaceable block. Once you have that together, apply the measuring tape, move the block so it aligns with zero, and then cut the replaceable block.
Here are a couple of pictures:
I hope this helps,
CWSLast edited by cwsmith; 02-13-2021, 08:04 PM.Think it Through Before You Do!👍 2Comment
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I made a great stop block for my RAS fence a few years ago. It's just about perfect for my use on that tool. Of course an RAS is a completely different tool, perhaps perfect for cross cuts; but, looking at your back stop made for a cross-cut sled on a table saw, I imagined my design being applied to that.
That would entail putting a T-channel across the top of your back-stop fence and applying a measuring tape to the channel. The stop employs a sliding block with an indicator (made from a scrap piece of clear past on which I scribed a line with a razer knife) against the measuring tape and a T-bolt with a locking know riding in that T-channel and thus adjustable and lockable across the back-stop. The actual stop is simply another block (I used 3/4 x 3/4) which is screwed to the indicator block (on that side of the RAS, it has to reach under the motor to reach the blade)
Advantage for my application is that I don't have to use a retractable tape measure or other solid ruler to measure and then mark. I simply adjust the sliding block to the right measurement, lock it in place, position my stock against the adjustable stop, and then feed the cut. Simple and I can cut one piece or any other quantity.
Now imagine my fixed RAS fence as being the back-stop fence you are using on your sled. Mount the T-track channel on either the right or left of that and then I think that I could use exactly the same adjustable block and simply cut it to have it accurate. Only challenge of course is my fence is a bit longer than yours and as such I can cut about a four-ft length and I can make it longer give the room. For yours, it has to be able to sllide, but I think you'll get the idea.
The beauty is that to ensure the accuracy you simply position the stop on zero, and cut a new stop should the one I have show any shrinkage. With the table saw, you would simply position your back-stop fence so it is over the blade and adjust your moveable stop accordingly. Of course you wouldn't have to use a longer stop like I did, because you're not reaching under the motor. Just make the add the T-channel along whatever side of your fence you wish, make the sliding measuring block and attach a short replaceable block. Once you have that together, apply the measuring tape, move the block so it aligns with zero, and then cut the replaceable block.
Here are a couple of pictures:
I hope this helps,
CWSComment
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Mostly I use the 12" compound miter saw for long cross cuts and have all kinds of stops on mine for long and short repetitive cuts.
But that is a valid technique. I use similar for repetitive dado cross cuts and partial cuts on the BT3. Consider a fence clamp for attaching stuff to the miter fence. See product reviews.Last edited by LCHIEN; 02-14-2021, 12:11 AM.Loring in Katy, TX USA
If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions👍 1Comment
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