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  • BT3000 Saw maintenance

    The elevation on my BT3100 was getting a bit tighter and making squealing noises.
    My cardinal rule is never force anything on my BT3000.
    Time for lubrication (or maybe a little past due).

    Pulled the power cord. Removed the throat plate and ran the blade up and took it off
    Used a shop vac and cleaned up some corners of the shroud that accumulated some sawdust and cut off bits that fell thru the throat plate and got caught. Found three very thin 3x3 cutoffs that fell thru the throat plate and lodged in the little shelf above the dust port.
    My saw inside is generally quite clean and free of sawdust since I have the HF Dust cleaner permanently hooked with 2 four-inch hoses to the back port and the belly pan port I added.

    Looked and made sure all the shims are there - could see the fold at the top holding it in place on both sides. Good!

    Got my tin of Johnson's paste wax (JPW) and put a dollop on my fingers and spread it on the front and sides of the exposed ways at the bottom. Then did the same at the top after running the motor/arbor bracket all the way down. The I repeated on the backside of the ways as much as I could, then repeated the fronts and sides, top and bottom, running the bracket up and down. Much smoother but still squealing a bit.
    I could feel the long elevation screw by reaching through the opening and to the right... I put a few dollops of JPW on my finger and applied it to the screw top and bottom turning it a bit as well.
    Ran the whole thing up and down smoothly and quietly and its like new, maybe better.

    Probably going to do some dadoes tomorrow.
    Last edited by LCHIEN; 06-26-2020, 01:23 AM.
    Loring in Katy, TX USA
    If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
    BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

  • #2
    20 years old!
    Loring in Katy, TX USA
    If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
    BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

    Comment


    • #3
      I used mine last week to rip some 2x10s by 10ft into full 2x8s x 10ft for a project. My BT3000 is still a sweet cutting machine. Mine is 20 years old also; at least I bought it 20 years ago in Sept/Oct.
      Hank Lee

      Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!

      Comment


      • #4
        Guess I haven't set up my SD306 dado stack lately.
        I spent about 2 hours getting the right width exactly that I wanted. I started by using a 1/16th chipper instead of a 1/8 chipper (I forgot the difference, shoulda known) and got entirely the wrong size and that threw me off a bunch questioning what I remembered about the stack sizes.
        When I realized my mistake after two adjustments I assembled one that was real close and then it took a while messing with shims to get it spot on.

        I guess tomorrow I actually cut them.

        I wasted a lot of time today messing with the car that got flooded inside after a heavy downpour of about 4 inches the night before, I shop vacced as much as I could and then had to clean up the very wet shop vac to put it back to dust collection mode.Took the car to my BIL mechanic to get it professionally cleaned and find out where the leak suddenly sprang.
        Last edited by LCHIEN; 07-05-2020, 06:19 PM.
        Loring in Katy, TX USA
        If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
        BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

        Comment


        • #5
          I've been using my SD208 dado to build drawers for the coffee table I've been making for nearly two years. Lots of dados and rabbits. Took some T&E to get it set up right. I ended up using a .004" shim to get the perfect fit I wanted. This is my first foray into full extension drawer slides and my learning curve is rather long. The next cabinet I use these types of slides on, I'll make sure they are flitted more precisely before I do the drawer carcasses. Six 26"Lx14"Wx7"D drawers and each will have to be custom sized. Really, my bad. I recently resawed a piece of 3"x4/4x85" hard maple in two for moldings in a single pass with my 1993 BT3000 and a 24T Freud blade. I've been using DrySlide to lube the shims and elevation screw all these years and the mechanism is still smooth as silk. Starting to worry a bit about the throat plate screw holes. I try to keep them clean and lubed with all of the blade changes I do and I have been extremely careful not to over tighten the four screws.
          Jim Frye
          The Nut in the Cellar.

          Comment


          • #6
            Jim, I gave up using my SD-208 and got a SD-306.
            The reason was that the full 3/4 or even 13/16 stack could not be used unless the 1/4" spacer was left on, or the 8" outside blades would hit the housing.
            If you left the 1/4" spacer on then the blade washer on the left has to be left off... and the left hand outside blade would rest on the threads of the arbor which are smaller in diameter than the arbor and the outer blade would be about 30 thou off center and not make a flat bottom dado.

            Not 100% sure what effect leaving off the blade washer has but I expect its not really a good thing. It must be there for a reason.

            The BT3000 was really not made to take a full 8" dado, but I can use it for dadoes of less than 1/2" wide if i need a really deep dado which is very seldom.
            Last edited by LCHIEN; 07-05-2020, 06:19 PM.
            Loring in Katy, TX USA
            If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
            BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

            Comment


            • #7
              I bought the SD208 back in 1999 and when I went to the local power tool store, they were out of the SD206 sets. I just absolutely, positively had to have a dado set then and the store guy offered me a discount on the SD208, so I took it. I paid $189 for the set. I think the widest dado I’ve ever cut was a sub 3/4” to fit some veneered plywood. You’re right about having to use the 1/4” spacer on the arbor shaft with the 8” dado set. I just tore the current dado setup down and while I was at it, I tried the widest setup possible. The SD208 will go up to 29/32” with all eight blades and the last plate just fit on the unthreaded portion of the arbor. I used one of the blade washers on the outside and still had room for all of the nut. The blade washers have always made me think of them as blade stabilizers since they are cupped on the inner face and bear on the blade with just the outer rim of the washer. Besides, with a bunch of those thick dado blades stacked up, there’s not gonna be much flex like a single saw blade, so the blade washers really aren’t needed except for spacing. One thing about these Freud sets is their mass. When they get up to speed, they allow the BT3K to plow right along. You have to remember that they will make the saw coast for far longer than with a saw blade mounted when you shut the saw off. My old contact at Ryobi verified that the BT3K could swing the the 8” dado set, but said not to force the feed to avoid stalling the dado set and burning up the belts.
              Jim Frye
              The Nut in the Cellar.

              Comment


              • #8
                I feel you can use the 8" dado sets as long as you keep at least the 1/4" spacer on.
                I do have the Freud dado kit that makes perfect 1/4 and 3/8" dadoes with two 8" blades.
                It has two bodies of 0.125". The carbide is flush with the outsides but overhangs the inside a little.
                Reverse the order of the blades and the outside of the carbides will have the overhang past the body and make a perfect 3/8" dado.
                Its been a while since I used it but I'm pretty sure I use the 1/2" arbor spacer.
                Loring in Katy, TX USA
                If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
                BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

                Comment


                • #9
                  When I first tried a SD308 set on my 13amp BT3000 (the original BT3000 version), there was only a small area of interference: the back corner of the aluminum piece that supports the blade guard. A few minutes with a file removed some of the "fillet" area allowing the full dado stack to be used without needing the 1/4 inch spacer collar. I do use the blade stiffener/supports and can get the full stack onto the smooth part of the arbor shaft.

                  mpc

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                  • #10
                    I love using the Freud dado sets. They cut such nice dadoes. I can never get such a clean, perfect cut with a router and straight bit. Or even a spiral downcut bit.
                    And of course the saw dado can be customized to size.
                    Loring in Katy, TX USA
                    If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
                    BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Yeah, I had to relieve that little fillet right at the top of the casting also to fit the 8" dado set. I had forgotten about that, but noticed the file marks today when I was mounting a saw blade.
                      Jim Frye
                      The Nut in the Cellar.

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