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Fence Roller Holder broken

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  • #16
    I got my aluminum machined rocker holder/roller holder just yesterday, also Figuring it would be a present to my saw to keep it running for a few more years.
    It was really not too hard to change out, as usual an operation that should be 10% of the job turned out to be 90% of the effort.

    The old bracket comes off as one piece with the removal of three screws. Then its a matter of transferring over the roller and the clamping lever.

    You use all the old pieces except for the two screws that held the assembly to the fence; these are replaced by machines screws for which the aluminum bracket is tapped, rather than reusing the original self-tapping screws of he old bracket.

    Getting the split roll pin out was a lot harder than I recall. That was 90% of the job. I used in various combinations, a ball peen hammer and a press, and a 1/4" stell pin and a 15/64 center finding punch to knock out the pin... the old bracket did not quite lie flat on its side to help. THere were a few breaks and pausing for reflection in between each attempt. Eventually I soaked it with penetrating oil, used a 1/4" flat washer around the pin to level out the plastic bracket so I could hit it square, and took some really good whacks with the ball peen hammer. Backing it up with a scrap thick piece of wood and a 3/8" hole was important. Having a torn right shoulder rotator cuff (MRIs tomorrow) doesn't help.

    For the record, the roll pin is loose fit in the bracket but tight in the clamp lever. I set those parts aside.

    Then I used a small allen t-handle to punch out the pin holding the roller... this is a press fit but much less tight and the pin is aluminum. The pin is actually a press fit in the roller and a clearance fit in the bracket so the pin revolves with the roller.

    I had a wicked thought and wondered if I could find a roller bearing to replace the plastic roller... I measured and found it to be .247" ID, .840" OD and about .345" to..387" wide with the slot giving up to .462 space for width. I looked and the closest I found was a hybrid bearing with 1/4" ID, 22 mm OD, and .about 7 mm width. 22 mm works out to .866 so I didn't think it would fit with the clamper clearance reduced. But it would have been wicked smooth rolling.

    So I installed the roller in the new bracket, installled the clamping lever int he bracket and drove the roll pin home with the ball peen.
    Putting the whole assembly back into the fence was easy and I used the machine screws. The screw in the end of the lever that attaches to the push rod appeared to have had some blue lock-tite on it. I think you can adjust how far the locking handle moves with this screw position.
    Anyway everything worked fin after reassembly and the lube I put on the roller appears to have helped.


    Loring in Katy, TX USA
    If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
    BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

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    • #17
      Hi. I'm new to this forum and already feeling welcome and learning lots...

      Is it normal for the roll pin to constantly fall out?

      Click image for larger version

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      • #18
        Originally posted by mattd008 View Post
        Hi. I'm new to this forum and already feeling welcome and learning lots...

        Is it normal for the roll pin to constantly fall out?

        Click image for larger version  Name:	493433CF-A22B-46B8-9F89-4B218E318EB2_1_201_a.jpeg Views:	0 Size:	118.4 KB ID:	844201

        Read my description of the disassembly and reassembly.in post #16 in this thread.
        There is a split spring roll pin 8 and a roller pin (solid) 4 in your drawing.
        You are apparently referring to the roller pin and I stated "Then I used a small allen t-handle to punch out the pin holding the roller... this is a press fit but much less tight and the pin is aluminum. The pin is actually a press fit in the roller and a clearance fit in the bracket so the pin revolves with the roller."

        So it fits snugly to the roller wheel and revolves or spins in the holes in the bracket. Should not "fall out".
        Last edited by LCHIEN; 05-19-2021, 03:57 PM.
        Loring in Katy, TX USA
        If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
        BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

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        • #19
          Thanks LCHIEN. Something isn't quite right because the axle for the roller wheel comes out when the fence isn't attached to the rails and its held at an angle greater than about 30 degrees.

          Also, I hear a sliding inside the rip fence. maybe the rod, compression sling or roll pin aren't connected up as they should. I'm not ready to take this apart. I don't think that it is materially affecting the utility/safety of the fence.

          hmmm...

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          • #20
            Originally posted by mattd008 View Post
            Thanks LCHIEN. Something isn't quite right because the axle for the roller wheel comes out when the fence isn't attached to the rails and its held at an angle greater than about 30 degrees.

            Also, I hear a sliding inside the rip fence. maybe the rod, compression sling or roll pin aren't connected up as they should. I'm not ready to take this apart. I don't think that it is materially affecting the utility/safety of the fence.

            hmmm...
            is the roller wheel in place when the roller pin falls out?
            Last edited by LCHIEN; 05-20-2021, 03:55 AM.
            Loring in Katy, TX USA
            If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
            BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

            Comment


            • #21
              Originally posted by mattd008 View Post
              Thanks LCHIEN. Something isn't quite right because the axle for the roller wheel comes out when the fence isn't attached to the rails and its held at an angle greater than about 30 degrees.
              Also, I hear a sliding inside the rip fence. maybe the rod, compression sling or roll pin aren't connected up as they should. I'm not ready to take this apart. I don't think that it is materially affecting the utility/safety of the fence.
              hmmm...
              WOW, this is bringing back some memories - I replaced the pin 2 years ago as listed in a previous post on this thread, and did it several years ago also. I have three separate fences, (had 4) for both a BT3000 and 3100. The roller and rod did the same thing you mentioned in the Bold at least 10 years ago. I had it come out several times over a couple of weeks and when I had the saw outside, the pin dropped out in the grass somewhere and I could not find it even with a bar magnet. I remember making a new roller PIN from a drill bit. I wondered why it just started coming out. I never could figure that out.

              I make pens on the lathe and have several sets of drill bits (three100 plus sets of bits by 1/64 up to 1/2; + numbered bits and lettered bits, and numerous mm bit sets in .5 mm sizes) and a fairly large number of individual bits in unusual size. With all of this, I did not have a problem finding a bit that fit inside the roller snugly. I cut it off and used it. No problems after that.

              What caused it? I don't know, but I think wear as little as 1/500th of an inch (or more) inside the roller could cause it to slide out. I didn't try gluing it back in, but if it happens again, I probably would use a drop of red or blue Permatex thread locker inside the roller and smear a thin coat on the pin, then insert it and let it set for a couple of day to a week. Maybe a small amount of silicone glue instead done the same way could also be done. The thread locker or silicone would allow its possible removal if needed in the future.
              Last edited by leehljp; 05-20-2021, 09:47 AM.
              Hank Lee

              Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!

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              • #22
                Originally posted by LCHIEN View Post

                is the roller wheel in place when the roller pin falls out?
                Yes. It is. Maybe some glue would do the trick (per Hank's recommendation).

                RE:
                I hear a sliding inside the rip fence. maybe the rod, compression sling or roll pin aren't connected up as they should
                ...I figured this out. The sound isn't from the inside, it is a part of the t-track clamp down thing (I'm new to this and don't know lots of the vocabulary).

                I'm adding pictures of both the pin falling out and the 'clamp down thing' making noise on the track.





                Attached Files

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by mattd008 View Post
                  Yes. It is. Maybe some glue would do the trick (per Hank's recommendation).
                  RE:
                  ...I figured this out. The sound isn't from the inside, it is a part of the t-track clamp down thing (I'm new to this and don't know lots of the vocabulary).

                  I'm adding pictures of both the pin falling out and the 'clamp down thing' making noise on the track.
                  1. Don't use just any glue, use some that is flexible. Hard cured glue can crack with age and and bumps, and the problem starts again. That is why I mentioned Permatex or other Thread Locker, or silicone (rubbery) glue.

                  2. the Clamp down thing (tab) - it sounds like something that is fairly common, and I don't know how to cure it, BUT, the back rocker arm does not always fully release when the front release handle is raised. (that is what is causing the scratching sound). I often have to reach in the back and squeeze or push the top of the rocker clamp back INward for full release. SOMETIMES it release more than others, and while it release enough to get the fence off easily sometimes, it does not release enough on other times.

                  That may sound like a need for WD-40, but to be honest, in the past couple of years of using WD-40 in many situations, I have discovered that WD-40 is not the best answer to the needs of stuck things most of the time. WD-40 is a quick fix at best, but not long term. AND especially for table saws, WD-40 can get on the fence and table. Minuscule amounts will transfer to the wood being cut - and prevent good adhesion of paint finishes and make the finish look splotchy. For a lube, look for a "dry lube" non silicone to spray inside and on the ends of the rip fence parts.
                  Hank Lee

                  Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Originally posted by mattd008 View Post
                    Yes. It is. Maybe some glue would do the trick (per Hank's recommendation).

                    RE:
                    ...I figured this out. The sound isn't from the inside, it is a part of the t-track clamp down thing (I'm new to this and don't know lots of the vocabulary).

                    I'm adding pictures of both the pin falling out and the 'clamp down thing' making noise on the track.




                    It is an aluminum pin - soft metal.
                    If you have some calipers I would see how far off the hole is the roller wheel is vs the diameter of the roller pin.
                    Maybe just pinging the pin in the middle with a centerpunch will raise a dimple large enough to make it snug in the wheel yet pass through the roller holder holes.
                    Try pinging it once and then again as many times as it takes to tighten it up.
                    I mean the difference between the roller hole and the pin dia should be close to be a snug fit if it was right to begin with.

                    Loring in Katy, TX USA
                    If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
                    BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

                    Comment

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