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Millennial who was given a BT3000

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  • Millennial who was given a BT3000

    Hello,
    First of all, I am thankful for this page as it has answered some of my other questions. I am a 25 year old who took shop classes throughout High school, and my brother just gave me his old Ryobi BT3000 table saw and router. I am hoping to connect with someone via phone or instant message to answer some questions that I have over this before I begin making projects. Is there an updated list of parts and accessories and where to get them at I have the following parts/accessories for the saw(sorry for the lack of terminology), let me know If there are any must haves:

    Full SMT assembly (with clamp to lock miter in place and clamp to keep wood down)
    - Does the fixed piece appear to be curved? I plan on checking it out tonight, but when I first looked, it seemed to be bent or the piece was thicker in some spots.
    - Also when I put the sliding top on, should there be side to side movement? Is there anyway to lock in place without the use of a clamp? Lastly, the "feet" underneath that keep the the sliding piece on track appear to be broken, all still attached, just pieces broke off.
    *****Photo will show miter fence not setup correctly, since I took this i learned that a peg fits into the whole.*****
    Rip Fence
    - It seems to not be aligned correctly, but just read that there are screws on top to correct this. I will look into this tonight,but if you have any other suggestions let me know. Also the screw on the end of the fence seems to be stripped.

    Routing table with Router
    - Do not have the router table kit and do not have the throat plate.

    Also, I have tried reaching out to Wayne Hill and have also created a ticket through Ryobi to get the updated On/Off switch, but have yet to here anything.

    I would really love to have a feather board, but do not see one on the market that will suffice. If anyone has any suggestions o none that works or plans on how to make one let me know. I think I saw the 3100 model has a manual on how to make one, but do cannot find the details anywhere and do not know if it work for the 3000.

    I would also love to have the miter slot top accessory, so i could use an actual miter gauge if needed, as well as a feather board.

    Are there any jigs with plans on how to make them for this saw?

    I noticed some discussions and pictures do not populate, is there anything i need to do to get these to start popping up, did they move?

    If anyone has Facebook or a Facebook page about this saw let me know! i noticed the Facebook group for Saw Dust is practically non existent.

    Thank you in advance, like I said, I would love to speak with someone over this saw let me nkow if you could be of help, i can give you my number or we can message on here or Facebook. I will try to add a photo.
    Last edited by Macsauce2012; 01-02-2019, 02:10 PM.

  • #2
    I am unable to add pictures.
    Last edited by Macsauce2012; 01-02-2019, 02:09 PM.

    Comment


    • #3
      PLease download the BT3 FAQ linked on my signature line at the bottom of my reply. I think any new BT3 owner will find it very useful and represents several years of experience and discussions on this forum
      Loring in Katy, TX USA
      If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
      BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

      Comment


      • Macsauce2012
        Macsauce2012 commented
        Editing a comment
        This page has helped me with a few things. This is also where I was having issues with pages loading up. For instance the one I was looking at was the line about T-nuts for rip and miter fence

    • #4
      Regarding pictures and links, some posts on this forum are way more than 10 years old... Many links get broken through no fault of the forum as other sites go up and down.
      Many of your pictures have been subjected to several forum application changes and a number of them have, unfortunately been lost forever.

      To post pictures you have to go tot he "A" advanced features and click on the picture icon.
      From there you can either upload from your computer or post a link to the internet. Once done, you can insert them into your text. Unfortunately there is no "paste" function.
      Loring in Katy, TX USA
      If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
      BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

      Comment


      • #5

        Comment


        • #6
          looks complete and in reasonably good shape.
          Step one: lube the vertical ways and the elevation screw! I use JOhnson paste wax.
          did you get the FAQ yet? Many questions about how things really work are answered there.
          Accessories are getting rare from the original suppliers, mostly you have to rely on eBay and the trade/sale forum here.
          Last edited by LCHIEN; 01-02-2019, 04:38 PM.
          Loring in Katy, TX USA
          If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
          BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

          Comment


          • #7
            The movable fence on the Sliding Miter Table (SMT) is set up wrong. Behind the fence on the on the SMT, you will see two holes, one on each side of the SMTable. On the bottom of the fence SHOULD BE a knob. This knob goes into the hole on one side or the other. (The knob slides on the bottom of the fence.) The bolt goes into the middle slot as you appear to have it. ON the left side of the SMT, just behind the fence is a small lift STOP. That stop is adjustable so that you can square the fence to the blade.

            However, that won't help too much if the slides (two parts, A & B) are broken, allowing the SMT to move side to side.
            Hank Lee

            Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!

            Comment


            • #8
              The router "throat plates", mounting plate, and a really crappy fence was part of the BT3x accessory kit that sold alongside of the saw. They are still out there on eBay at inflated prices, but that might be your sole source these days. I've long since stopped using the router fence and built my own which clamps onto the main BT3 fence. The mounting plate is useful but this could be fairly easily machined yourself even with basic tools. The inserts ("throat plates") would be a little harder to DIY as they fit in pretty precise and into a ridge into the table.

              The dual miter slot accessories are useful and I actually have one on either side (someone used to sell a kit to mount a second one, not sure if that's still available). They are handy and I like the additional table surface vs having a big gap. Once you have one of these your featherboard problem will be solved. Otherwise if you download the original manual it tells you how to make a featherboard that works with the miter table.

              Once you become accustomed to the miter table you won't care about having a traditional miter gauge anymore (most likely).

              The FAQ that Loring mentions will tell you how to tune the saw and get it very accurate. There's a jig you can build which simplifies this greatly.


              Oh, and Welcome!

              Comment


              • #9
                With the SMT, are the "feet" as I'm calling it, that are attached to the the top of the SMT available for purchase anywhere? I have one that isnt broke, the other three seem to thinner and appear to be broken off, tightened it up tonight and took care of the movement from side to side as much as possible. Also is the fixed part of the sliding miter, the part that is on the aide of the on/off switch supposed to be slanted down or is that mean its bent?

                Comment


                • #10
                  I am going to try something, not sure if it works:
                  Here is the manual in PDF format. See if you can download it. This might help in identifying parts.

                  the part that is on the aide of the on/off switch supposed to be slanted down or is that mean its bent?
                  Not sure but it "sounds" like it is bent, but I didn't see it in the picture.
                  Attached Files
                  Last edited by leehljp; 01-02-2019, 11:55 PM.
                  Hank Lee

                  Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!

                  Comment


                  • #11
                    The feet are called miter slides or sliders and have two parts, an A and a B part. They can be turned 180 degrees if the tabs are broken or worn off only one side.

                    The saw has been out of production for over a decade and parts are getting harder to come by. There are some listed on eBay at the moment for $40 per set.

                    The manual has a plan for a feather board on page 21 which was one of your other questions. As to jigs etc for this saw, check out the articles section on this site.
                    Chr's
                    __________
                    An ethical man knows the right thing to do.
                    A moral man does it.

                    Comment


                    • #12
                      Thank you guys for everything! Another question I have is do I need the wrenches that come with the saw to get the blade off or csn i use any wrench that fits?

                      Comment


                      • #13
                        Originally posted by Macsauce2012 View Post
                        Thank you guys for everything! Another question I have is do I need the wrenches that come with the saw to get the blade off or csn i use any wrench that fits?
                        You can use any wrench on the arbor nut. The nice thing about the wrenches that are specific to the saw are that one is thin enough and has a slot to grab the flats on the arbor to hold the blade and arbor shaft while loosening or tightening the arbor nut. There is always the old school method of jamming a scrap piece of wood between the blade and the throat of the saw to hold it as well. It's not as elegant, but is the method used on all saws that don't have a way to hold the arbor from spinning during blade changes.
                        Chr's
                        __________
                        An ethical man knows the right thing to do.
                        A moral man does it.

                        Comment


                        • #14
                          You don't *need* the blade wrenches, but it's something you do often enough that I think you'd be happier having them. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ryobi-BT300...QAAOSwl7db5Sly

                          They work for the blade guard, arbor lock, and arbor nut.

                          As for the stock blade guard, it sucks. Consider investing in a Shark Guard. It's not cheap but worth it.

                          At the VERY least, if you insist on not using a blade guard, get a riving knife. How much is your health worth to you?

                          Comment


                          • #15
                            Re: Blade Wrenches

                            The saw comes with two thin wrenches with an offset head. The offset head, one is 1/2" for the splitter riving knife nuts, and the other is 3/4" for the arbor nut.
                            On the reverse end of each is a square recess device that fits the small slot between the table insert and the table, and this locks the arbor from turning by engaging the two flats on the arbor.

                            What you really need:
                            • An 3/4" open end or even closed end wrench for arbor nut. I prefer a combination wrench with an offset closed end to make it a little easier
                            • An 1/2" open end or closed end wrench for the riving knife nuts. Combination wrench (open + offset closed end) works well.
                            • One or the other of the supplied wrenches to lock the arbor. I don't know of a substitute for this.
                            The thin wrenches supplied are absolutely not needed for their two main functions but as I said, its the only easy way to lock the arbor to make blade changing easy. In that case you only need one or the other. You could jam the blade as someone suggested but I wouldn't like that.

                            I suggest you go to a local pawn shop. Usually they have a boxful of wrenches with broken sets including craftsman, snap-on and a host of cheap chinese wrenches. Pick a couple you like of 1/2" and 3/4" and make them an offer. In the distant past I offered $1 to $1.50 for each to be able to hang a dedicated wrench by each tool. Otherwise, you can sometimes find cheap wrench sets for $6 to 10 for a set that might cover the range and toss the ones you don't need. A 9-piece SAE set that works is https://www.harborfreight.com/9-piec...set-42304.html at Harbor freight is $7.99, less 20% off coupons you find everywhere makes it $6.40. They look great, and since you really only need to wrench on your saw lightly, they will last forever, as the arbor nut should only be applied with low torque.
                            Last edited by LCHIEN; 01-03-2019, 12:23 PM.
                            Loring in Katy, TX USA
                            If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
                            BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

                            Comment

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