BT3000 Riving Knife Spacers

[Frankenfoot]

Hello All. This is my first post, so I hope this is the right place.

I recently purchased a 1999 BT3000 in good condition, save a few parts. The saw came with a blade guard setup, but it was not installed. In looking it over I see that I am missing the nuts, clamp (?), and all but one of the shims related to the guard setup.

I have looked at several online parts stores, but it seems as though the shims are discontinued. Does anyone know where to acquire these? I could probably fabricate these if I knew the specs. Are these necessary if I purchase a Shark Guard setup?

BTW, thanks in advance and for a GREAT site!

[Pappy]

You will need them with a Shark to align it behind the blade.

There have been some BT's parted out recently. Possible someone will chime in with the shims for you.

[mpc]

The shims are nothing magic/special... just very thin metal. One idea posted on this forum long ago - to help make it easier to re-install the riving knife and blade guard after removing for a dado or other such cut - was to use aluminum from a soda can. Make two shims from the can that are taller than the factory shims... then use those on either side of the riving knife. Where they stick upwards, above the regular shims, bend them outwards so they form a funnel to help guide the riving knife into position. I did that years ago and those soda can shims are still working fine.

So find any thin sheet metal you can easily work and make a few shims and/or chop up some aluminum cans and make a few. All you need are rectangles about the size of the clamping block with two holes (can be oversized) for the bolts - use the clamping block as a setup template. I'd make two extra tall (about 3/8ths to 1/2 inch) that can then be folded 45 degrees or so to make funnels for the riving knife too.

Your sheet metal may be thicker than factory shims; no big deal. I have a stack of 4 or 5 factory shims on my saw so there's room for 1, 2, or 3 thicker shims. You may need a small handful of soda can shims or 1 or 2 sheet metal shims fine-tuned with a soda can shim.

mpc

[pelligrini]

Make two shims from the can that are taller than the factory shims... then use those on either side of the riving knife. Where they stick upwards, above the regular shims, bend them outwards so they form a funnel to help guide the riving knife into position. I did that years ago and those soda can shims are still working fine.

The shims on my 21829 were shaped the same way.

The 21829 shims should work on a BT. That saw is still in production and parts should be available from sears. Making some shims wouldn't be too difficult either.

[Frankenfoot]

Thanks for the suggestions.

I was considering using some shims that I have laying around for an old GM starter motor, but the aluminum can idea is good, especially the "ears".

I also like the idea of using the 21829 shims. Does anyone have experience using other 21829 parts as replacements? For instance, I am missing some of the rail end caps and they aren't available for the BT3000.

[pelligrini]

The rail caps probably won't work for a 3000, the rail extrusions are different. I'm not even sure if the 21829 caps and the BT3100 caps are the same. The outside dimensions of the two match up, but the 21829 rail extrusions are thinner (6" longer too). Check this thread for shome photos: http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=45948

[Frankenfoot]

The rail caps probably won't work for a 3000, the rail extrusions are different. I'm not even sure if the 21829 caps and the BT3100 caps are the same. The outside dimensions of the two match up, but the 21829 rail extrusions are thinner (6" longer too). Check this thread for shome photos: http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=45948

Thanks pelligrini!

[Frankenfoot]

The 21829 shims worked great!

I ordered several other miscellaneous parts as well. Thanks for the input!