Time to upgrade

[Cochese]

I've had my 21829 for a bit over a year now and it's been a fine tool. But I think it's high time I took it to the next level. The stock form has some shortcomings I have wanted to address for awhile, and I finally think I'm ready.

I want to build an outfeed table first of all. I'm thinking about a 6-panel interior door, covered in hardboard and trimmed. I think pelligrini had a good idea and I am going to borrow some of that. I think it will store on the shop door, and I may set up something in the shop where it could also be a temp assembly table if needed.

I also want some extra width for wide cuts and stability. I would like some half-rail extensions, but could also do something that involves a separate rolling cabinet (router table?) that has an alternate method of registering a fence. I want to make extension tables to fill the space, and make miter slots to enhance/replace the SMT. I want to use some standard miter accessories including a sled. I have the slots and the bars.

I'm currently reading through past threads for pictures and construction ideas, if you have any links or pictures that I might find useful, I would appreciate it. Keep in mind I have a ~6' access height on the door and a ~7' ceiling height. I would like to keep the mobile base and be able to wheel the whole contraption down the ramp and outside for full sheet rips. Thanks.

[jdon]

Take a look at the post by jnesmith in the recent "BT3000 vs 3100" thread- impressive, droolworthy photo!

[Cochese]

I'm jealous of these wonderful mobile and not mobile cabinets these are built into. Unfortunately I'm not lucky enough to do something like that with my situation. Mine still has to go upright, and maybe dock with a cabinet. I've had that idea for awhile.

[Cochese]

I bought a 'hardwood' interior door from HD today to use for my outfeed table. Just need to figure out how I'm going to attach it.

[Cochese]

Decided to revisit this thread after I made some changes to the layout of my shop. I've had the 21829 deployed in the horizontal position for a few weeks now and only had to move it slightly and not at all to the vertical position. I think I might be in a position to remove it from the travel stand onto a rolling stand with built-in storage.

Main reason I would do this is to gain the storage space below the saw, and to eliminate my freestanding router table. Not completely sure I want to do it yet, but the pictures I've seen of the BT3s done this way look awesome.

[jeepman71]

CocheseUGA you might consider building a router table in place of the aux table and retaining your ability to store it in the verical position. I built a router table to replace the auxiliary table so that it completley covers the right side rails. This gave me a larger router table and a larger saw table with the ability to store in the vertical position. I then copied some of the ideas for an outfeed table from dbhost or Pelligrini, I don't remember which using half of a door.

Jim

[Cochese]

CocheseUGA you might consider building a router table in place of the aux table and retaining your ability to store it in the verical position. I built a router table to replace the auxiliary table so that it completley covers the right side rails. This gave me a larger router table and a larger saw table with the ability to store in the vertical position. I then copied some of the ideas for an outfeed table from dbhost or Pelligrini, I don't remember which using half of a door.

Jim

Have you posted any pictures of your setup? I can't remember if you have.

I'll be thinking about what to do for a little while. I had considered having a freestanding router table that docked with the saw, but I just wonder if making a full integrated unit would be easier. I would like some longer rails too, so I can have more space to the left of the blade.

Finally got my new guard the other day, and I really like it. Too bad I'll still have to remove it for dados, but I have to remove the throat plate for those anyway.

[Cochese]

Here's me thinking out loud:

I essentially have four options here. First, is make an extension table that bolts to the rails and is potentially supported by the floor.

Second is to build a stand-alone cabinet that fits within the confines of the rails. Presents some engineering issues, as does #3.

Third is to make a low-slung platform that the mobile base sits on, and the router cabinet is attached to the platform. The whole assembly would move as one, but the saw could be detached and rolled outside for whatever reason.

Fourth is to stow the mobile stand and build a cabinet on wheels.

I still don't know how to attach anything to the rails I have miter slots ready to install, but I haven't figured out how to do it. The fourth involves probably the highest cost in materials, and is the heaviest. Third is probably my least favorite option, because it would be the hardest to remove the saw and involves the engineering aspect.

As much as I like the idea of the full cabinet, I'm leaning toward redesigning my router cabinet to slide into the right side of the saw. Where this gets tricky is the handles for the saw. They are significantly narrower than the rails, so there will have to be notches for them to slide into. It can be done, but it will take some figuring in Sketchup and some careful measuring and cutting. It will be a challenge.

The only other thing that bugs me about this plan is the waste of space on the left side where the outrigger is, and under the saw itself. I suppose I could build something that rests on the outrigger so it's easily removable and moves when I move the saw.


Let the designing begin, I suppose.

[jeepman71]

I haven't posted any pictures. I made a table using two layers of cabinet grade ply, adding a miter slot and routing the hole for the router drop in plate. I attached it using the nuts from the auxiliary table fence attachments. T-Nuts on the forum list has the proper nuts to attach items to the rails. Here is an example of a table saw router table extension http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...er_table4.htmlunfortunately nobody offers one for these saws. If you do a search on router table saw extensions you will get some good ideas. One in particular is from Woodgears.

Jim

[Cochese]

Finally looked at the T-nuts link and figured it out. I'll be ordering stuff for it soon, but want to make one order at once.

I think I decided I just want a flat surface to the right of the blade, with storage underneath. If I do a router attachment I think it would be to the left over the outriggers. I priced some replacement rails and it would be about $100 shipped to my door, which is a bit more than I wanted to spend. I don't know how much more room I need to the right of the blade, but if I were to move the rails to the left to support a miter track and the SMT (not to mention the router portion), I'm going to be seriously limited on my width of cut with the stock rails. With the width of my door, I'm pretty sure I'm limited to 48" of cut anyway, but I'd have to check that. It would involve sliding the table over as a unit, which I think I may have a plan for.

Just kinda debating if this is all worth it, or I should sell my saw and buy something like the 21833.

[pelligrini]

I priced some replacement rails and it would be about $100 shipped to my door, which is a bit more than I wanted to spend.

$100 is pretty steep. You can usually get the 42" BT rails for $30-$40. I think I paid under $60 for a set of 21829 rails from a member that wanted to keep his BT rails and extensions.

[jeepman71]

CocheseUSA, check out Pelligini's table saw, here is a link to some of his pictures http://www.bt3central.com/showpost.p...92&postcount=7 , he has a pretty sweet set up for a mobile and very small stored foot print saw.

JIm

[Cochese]

Yeah, I've looked at that a lot. Won't be able to do quite that because of height issues. Also, I'm hoping that I really won't have to fold the saw up again unless in unusual situations.

Saw a 21833 at a Sears store being converted back to a Kmart for 20% off, and I was tempted. But with just getting my Shark Guard I think I'll try to make this work some way. Wish I could make the rails I need, though.

[Cochese]

$100 is pretty steep. You can usually get the 42" BT rails for $30-$40. I think I paid under $60 for a set of 21829 rails from a member that wanted to keep his BT rails and extensions.

The problem is finding them.

There's a 15% coupon for SPD right now, it would bring both rails shipped to $87. Debating it right now.

[JimD]

Spruce and Sandeply

This is my saw. I wrote a piece on it years ago called Spruce and Sandeply. The Spruce reference is to a clear Spruce 2x4 that forms much of the torsion box base of the saw. The BT3100 is on a hinged plywood panel for cleaning. The rails and extension table attach by clamping using the slots on the bottom and inside of the rails. I put pieces of 1/8 inch thick flat steel in the slots with holes tapped for 5/16 threads. The slot on the bottom of the rail clamps the rail to the cabinet - knobs with 5/16 studs go through 3/4 plywood into the flat stock and pull the rail down tight to the plywood and thus cabinet. The inside rail slot is used to clamp the extension table to the rail. I've also used the same technique to attach little tables for miter slots.

A nice feature of attaching things this way is they move when you loosen the clamping. I slide the rails off the flat stock to tilt the saw for cleaning, for instance.

I deliberately made the drawers in the base and the doors different ways and of different materials just to have an illustration readily available of different alternatives. The woods are oak, maple, poplar, walnut and cherry.

Jim