how to attach dado blade

[kenny.bennett]

I am finding it impossible to attach a dado (black and decker 6" - 1/4 - 13/16 adjustable) to my bt3000. Must be some key concept I am missing. The small spacer that came with the unit is not sufficient to allow the blade to clear mounting fixture and if i use the larger spacer with both washers, the arbor does not clear the blade enough to get the nut on secuerly (barely catches a couple of threads.

Also, i had to remove the tin shroud that funnels dust to the vacuum hole just to get this far. This seems goofy - do i really need to do this just to put on a dada blade??

Thanks for any insights - at present, regretting the purchase.

[Black wallnut]

I can not specifically address your choice of dado blade however stack dado sets work fine. Perhaps your adjustable one is too thick in the middle to work on this saw.

[jking]

Adjustable, or "wobble" dado blades are not recommended for use on small saws because of the vibration the blade causes. Many woodworkers find the quality of cut to be undesirable, as well.

As far as use on the BT3, stacked dadoes work fine. I suspect Mark is correct that the adjustable dado is simply too thick for the saw. Most saws in this price range would probably have the same issue. One of the reasons I bought my BT3100 was it's ability to handle a standard dado stack - not many other saws in it's price range could.

[leehljp]

I will also add that the wobble does not cut flat bottoms like stacked dados do. The adjustable's are acceptable in some work, but overall for precision cutting and fitting, it leaves much to be desired. Even then, there are some stacked dados that don't give smooth bottoms - such as some of the Harbor Freight and other under $50 type of stacked.

I hated to put out the money for a good stacked carbide blade when there were $39. options out there, but soon learned the benefits of having a good set that gave great results. If you do find a good set, go for the 6 inch. The 8 inch sets sometimes have minor housing problems on the BT3x00. The problems are not major and they can be remedied easy enough, but still the 6 inch work better on the BT3. Also, make sure they are carbide tipped, not steel.

[jdon]

You should be able to gt the blade on without removing the shroud cover (I assume it's not a "wobbly" type)- you have to slide on the blades, chippers and shims onto the spindle one at a time, and have the blade fully elevated (stating the obvious). IIRC, you can remove the thinner of the two spacers, and get clearance from the housing.

Do you need to have the full width of the dado for your project? I've found I also can't use the full width of my dado set, but I use mine mostly for ploughing out wide swaths (e.g. lap joints), so just make a few more passes with a narrower dado setup that will fit on the shaft.

Ideally, both washers should be used, but perhaps you could get by with using just one of them. One washer should be enough to keep the blade(s) perpendicular to the shaft. A thinner washer- like a fender washer- next to the nut might provide a little better grip than just the nut alone This is all speculation, and wiser heads may have a different opinion.

[JimD]

I have a wobble dado that is ground to produce a flat bottom when cutting a 3/4 dado. Any decent wobble dado should cut a flat bottom at one width but will not cut one at any other width. Most seem to be ground for flat at 1/4 so they produce a concave dado at wider widths. Mine cuts a convex dado at narrower widths. I think that is more useful. I can mount it on my BT3100 but I do not. It is too hard to set it to the width I want. It is far easier to put on a stacked dado.

If you need more clearance on the inside, you might try a 5/8 washer from the hardware store. You don't have to use the Ryobi washers either. I like to but you can use a hardware store washer. I don't understand how you don't have enough clearance, however, on the inside. You removed both the spacers didn't you? With both of them off, you have 3/4 inch for the wobble dado. The inside Ryobi washer should get the wobble dado far enough from the frame.

Jim

[LCHIEN]

if you read the FAQ you probably would not have bought an adjustable dado.

[roadrunner176]

I have the craftsman version of this saw. Like everyone else, the stacked dado will be easier and better on this saw. But for the occasional use, the wobble will work.

On the craftsman version, you have to remove the left side table housing, then remove the 6 or 7 screws that hold the dust collection plate to the blade housing. The blade will now fit onto the arbor from the top of the table.

As for spacing, I have two spacers. One smaller (5/16) and one larger (1/2)that came with the saw. Both are required when using a single blade plus the blade anti-vibration washers.

To use a wobble, leave the shorter bushing on the shaft, than place the blade washer, than the dado blade, than a 5/8 id fender washer ( Heavy gauge) than nut. This leaves enough threads to fully thread on the nut, and a turn or 2 more.

This order centers the dado blade to use the standard throat to a maximum 3/8 width. I would recommend buying, or making a throat to use with the dado blade for anything wider than 5/16. 1/8 hardboard makes a quick dado throat for wider materials. If working with 1x2 or equivalent and running lengths, buy a plate or make one out of steel or poly carbonate.

[vaking]

I have bt3100, I have a stacked 6" dado but I also have a craftsman excalibur wobble dado with 2 blades (double-wobble). This is an 8" adjustable dado so it should not have fit bt3100 but it can be done. Putting it on a shaft is a little tricky but I can put it on without removing any shroud casing. Dado cuts flat bottom at 1/4" grove, at 3/4" it is not exactly flat but because it is a double blade dado deviation is tolerable. You have to be carefull not to raise an 8" blade too high or it will contact throat plate though.