What should I expect from my BT3K and a new blade?

[Taylormade]

There IS a possibility you have too much on the circuit, and are just not providing enough amperage, or even voltage to the saw....

I hate to even think this, but there is a possibility that the issue is with the electrical service into the shop.

Could be, and I can rectify it by installing a 100% dedicated circuit to the saw. The current one is pretty much by itself but the electrical box is less than 15' from where I use the saw, and I have four slots open in it still.

Or perhaps I'll wait until it starts giving me fits again I can't believe this would cut 7/8 wood of any kind, but maybe I'm wrong. I've got some maple and poplar that I'll be working with in the somewhat near future.

[dbhost]

Well if my math is correct, and it has been known to be wrong from time to time, 7/8 x 4 is 3.5" thick, which would be something like 14/4, the feed rate was reasonable, but I must admit, the guard was off for the operation (the clamp gets in the way) but it worked fine for me, and I know my saw has personality problems from time to time... I connect with a 15' 10 ga extension cord as well but no issues with burning. There was a tiny bit of bogging, slowing the feed rate fixed that...

[gbk]

There has been a lot of good advice from the forum. But, there are a few possible issues that don't involve the saw or its motor.

Are you using rough stock? Unless one face and one edge have been jointed flat and square, you are going to get some bogging and burning on any saw, at any horsepower. A good ripping blade with deep gullets and flat ground teeth will help you plow through some less than perfect boards. Sometimes you just have to pause, let the motor get up to speed, cut a little more, then pause again. Rough stock = rough cut.

Sometimes wood contains stress, just waiting to get out when you rip it, and that will always bind the blade. This is caused by improper drying, storage, large knots or even wood cut from a leaning tree. One thing to do in that case is to rip it on a band saw or jig saw, then joint an edge and try again. Or, set to cut oversize, patiently rip (never force!), then joint and rip again. Sometimes, nice looking boards just become firewood.

What about blade height? Too low and you're not giving the saw teeth enough room to clear shavings effectively, and the friction is tremendous. Too high, and it's just plain scary. I think the bottom of the top-most gullet (from the saw table) should match the thickness of the wood you are trying to rip. I hope that makes sense.

Good Luck!
Gordon

[Taylormade]

Thanks for the comment, Gordon, I've pretty much solved this problem... pretty much. I've switched to a 24T ripping blade and it's pretty much eliminated my problems. The saw seemed underpowered for cutting 6/4 and 8/4 cherry and walnut with a 40 tooth blade, but it's getting by with the 24.

Everything else has been great, and for the money, I love the saw.