Throat Area Q?

[mrpedersen]

HI, Now I'm curious about the rim of the throat area. On my saw (Craftsman) the ends of this area have a slight taper / bevel to them and the plate sits a little lower than the table , about 1/32". And the end of the plate doesn't extend to either end making it all flush / level. This dip also seems to be grabbing the tip of one of the pawls.

I have noticed that the right pawl is a little wiggly (in and out) and that I don't have the spacer caps for them. Never did.

I'm waiting the arrival of the Shark Guard kit and ZCTP - which is the same length I believe. But not sure on the thickness, if it'll be raised or not.

Should I have any worries about this?
pics are a little blurred.

Glenn

[Black wallnut]

The ZCTPs that i use are flush with the main table top. The slope fore and aft are still visable with them installed. When you get yours you should have no worries about this. The slope on the back is almost required; you do not want anything that can stop the smooth exit of stock past the blade. A squared corner with a throat plate that is too low could potentially be very dangerous.

[Bill in Buena Park]

Glenn,
To keep the pawls from catching, try putting a thin piece of tape over them - it'll also help keep them from scratching up your workpieces. Instead of tape, I've cut the springs on mine, but some don't recommend that approach, and you still have to lift the pawls when lowering the blade to prevent catching. The pawls have lateral play, but I haven't had much trouble with that.

The stock throat plate with the 21829 isn't flush - but you could use tape underneath to bring it up to flush. As Mark said, the ZCTPs seem to be made to sit flush, but they don't fill that bevel.

I still use my OEM 21829 guard, but modified - but I'd say just tape the pawls until your Shark arrives.

[pelligrini]

That's one thing I didn't like about the craftsman and ryobi plates, besides their ZCTPs that flex easily. Before I made some flush plates out of some maple flooring scraps. I shimmed my plates up with some tape.

[RAFlorida]

mrpedersen, pay close attention to what

Mark, (Black wallnut), posted. A catch while trying to saw can be very bad news.

[JoeyGee]

It must be a sign of the times as addressed in the Where is Everybody thread, but when I saw the title, I assumed somone was looking for advice from GermDoc or MilDoc .

Speaking of, where are those guys (and many others...)

[mrpedersen]

many thanks for the info, my new Shark guard has cleared customs - at least one pkge.

I will be making a couple inserts using the new one as a model. On one I will try to extend and taper the ends - at least need to do a trial model. and work from that. There are leveling screw holes, drilled and tapped in my throat area. More time than money. Lots of time..

One interesting item that I didn't really notice was the Ryobi Aux table has no Miter Slots - At least from most of the photos I've seen, my unit has one at the edge of each side. A good feature for the router and other uses. Never have mounted my router.. Think I'll build another table for it - dedicated.. Project #??.

Will get back later,

Glenn.

Have also noticed that other WW forums are have slow activity, I think its the time of year, to much to do outside with fall cleanup.

[pelligrini]

One interesting item that I didn't really notice was the Ryobi Aux table has no Miter Slots - At least from most of the photos I've seen, my unit has one at the edge of each side. A good feature for the router and other uses. Never have mounted my router.. Think I'll build another table for it - dedicated.. Project #??.

Interesting, my newer Craftsman 21829 (with the folding base) has slots on auxiliary table too. As far as I know, the earlier Craftsman 22811 and all of the Ryobi models didn't have slots.

This thread has some photos of the two types of tables that I know of. http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=44263 How is the top of your saw table and auxiliary table finished? Raw alum with ridges? or powder coated like the 21829?

Does your router mount with a plate like the BTs or does your aux. table have all the holes like the 21829? I'm just a little curious.

The slots in the aux table are nice for routing; featherboards, jigs, etc. I also used mine for attaching featherboards for use for my saw with a miter slot adapter. You can't really use them for a miter gauge with the saw though, as it's about impossible to get the slots aligned to the blade.

[pelligrini]

Looks like yours is powder coated, like the 21829. I just looked at your photos again. I bet your aux table has the bosses underneath too.

[pelligrini]

OK, more questions. I looked at your photos in this thread: http://www.bt3central.com/showpost.p...83&postcount=8

Does your SMT have two sets of holes? with one set towards the rear of the table?
How long are your rails? 42" or 48" like the 21829 rails?

Looks like the manufacturer was making a saw with some of the features of a BT (splayed base, etc.) and some of the things that showed up in the 21829 (powder coating, miter slots, etc.)

[LCHIEN]

i keep the plate area of the throat plate shimmed up with layers of tape to match the height of the main table. Even so, its advistable to put a bit of a draft on the leading edge of the throat plate so there's no way it can catch and maybe raie the back end of the throat plate a hair (maybe .005") above theable there so there's no way you can catch a piece of wood being ripped even it if's not perfectly flat.

[mrpedersen]

gentlemen,

Absolutely great, Lots of info, Making me much, much more aware of the tools that I have in front of me.

My table tops are powder coated, black / dark charcoal, and the underside of the Aux table is a medium gray with bosses. Same number of holes as Pelligini's in his photos. The SMT only has one set of holes for the Miter fence. Slider base is 35 1/2" and tables are 22 1/4. Front and rear rails are 44".

I did have a little grab by the pawl finger after testing the blade lowering and elevation. Tomorrow I'll give it some tape as suggested and give it a whirl. Another thing, This plate only has 3 anchor holes, 2 back, 1 front and center.

I've often wondered in the danger of rip cutting short narrow pieces. I will be doing some in the near future , so I guess a sliding table is in the priority list
of to do's. That'll be a new thread. There are some great examples i've seen here.

Glenn.
Off to the eye doc today, final exam before the cataract and new corneas op in late Nov. Waiting lists are very long.

[LCHIEN]

gentlemen,

...I've often wondered in the danger of rip cutting short narrow pieces. I will be doing some in the near future , so I guess a sliding table is in the priority list
of to do's. That'll be a new thread. There are some great examples i've seen here.
...

these are dangerous becuase the normal methods would have you running body parts just too close to the blade. The best thing is to plan cuts so you don't have short noarrow rips left at the end of your work. Sliding tables don't help.

POst your new thread when you are ready to do these.