Delta 36-717 Hybrid/Biese

Collapse
This topic is closed.
X
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • vinht
    Established Member
    • Jan 2004
    • 391
    • North Andover, MA, USA.

    #16
    Originally posted by Dustmight
    FWIW, I found the rewiring on this motor to be easy and straight forward...a 5 minute job. Just bevel the motor toward the access door and it's easy to reach.
    Dustmight, if I decide to go ahead with the rewire do you mind if I contact you in a PM with questions? Also, do I need to purchase anything for this?

    Currently all the shop lights are on the standard circuit so I figure rewiring the saw to use the existing 220 will be an improvement.

    Vinh
    A Woodworker\'s Journey
    http://vinht.home.comcast.net

    Comment

    • Knottscott
      Veteran Member
      • Dec 2004
      • 3815
      • Rochester, NY.
      • 2008 Shop Fox W1677

      #17
      Originally posted by vinht
      Dustmight, if I decide to go ahead with the rewire do you mind if I contact you in a PM with questions? Also, do I need to purchase anything for this?

      Currently all the shop lights are on the standard circuit so I figure rewiring the saw to use the existing 220 will be an improvement.

      Vinh
      No problem at all. Once the junction box on the motor is rewired, you just need to clip the plug and attach a new 220v plug that fits your outlet...usually under $20. I think they even provide any additional wire nuts that are required. The original switch and power cord should be fine.
      Happiness is sort of like wetting your pants....everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth.

      Comment

      • vinht
        Established Member
        • Jan 2004
        • 391
        • North Andover, MA, USA.

        #18
        Converted my 36-717 to 220 last night and it was a breeze. No need to move the motor to get to the wiring. Delta made it very simple providing the needed wiring plugs and color coded schematic. A < $10 220 plug and 10 minutes of my time and now I'm running my saw on 220.

        My saw definitely starts up faster but that's not the reason why I converted. My shop lights no longer dim and my shop vac no longer skips a beat when the saw gets turned on. No more threats of my circuit breaker giving out. I already had 220 service to the shop that was not being used so this was a no brainer for me.

        Vinh
        A Woodworker\'s Journey
        http://vinht.home.comcast.net

        Comment

        • LCHIEN
          Internet Fact Checker
          • Dec 2002
          • 20983
          • Katy, TX, USA.
          • BT3000 vintage 1999

          #19
          Originally posted by Dustmight
          ..., there can still be voltage swings (specifically voltage drops) caused solely by the electrical grid supplying the circuit. A voltage drop of somewhere in the range of 11v is ~ a 10% drop on the 110v circuit, while the same loss is only a 5% drop on a 220v circuit, which in turn causes less heat and efficiency losses during operation on the 220v circuit....no matter what actual voltage the loss may be, it's always half that on the 220v circuit. There are other advantages too...the value of which are debateable, like current spikes at startup, and faster starts, etc, but I think the "percentage of loss" argument is fairly objective. I think most people will find the conversion to 220v is more helpful than harmful, assuming no wiring errors are made.
          You're going to find that in the electrical grid, all voltages are reflected in proportion to the main distribution voltages and are stepped down proportionately by transformers in the subsequent stations.

          Because only the last few paltry feet are separated into 110 and 220, and
          the 110 is really just half a 220V leg, you will find that anywhere in the the first few hundred miles of electrcical transmission the same thing that causes a 5V drop in the 220V will onty cause half of that or 2.5 volts in
          the 110 circuit. Percentage of loss will be constant!

          Sorry, but I think your main argument is very weak.
          A reasonably properly wired 110 vs 220 setup would be virtually indistinguishable. Even if there was a difference of a few percent
          its below the threshold of human ability to sense those differences without tools (voltmeters, ammmeters, dynamometers) to enhance our measurement ability.
          Loring in Katy, TX USA
          If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
          BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

          Comment

          Working...