How to make a BT3x00 Rip Fence/Miter Fence fixture block for mounting jigs

Collapse
X
Collapse
  •  

  • How to make a BT3x00 Rip Fence/Miter Fence fixture block for mounting jigs

    Click image for larger version  Name:	P5241261.jpg Views:	1 Size:	114.2 KB ID:	855093
    DIY BT3000 FIXTURE BLOCK for Rip/Miter Fence extrusion

    Simple shop construction - no machining.


    This is intended to fit the top T-track on the Rip and miter fence (uses the same extrusion) on the Ryobi BT3x00 / Craftsman 22811 family of saws
    You must make the Block and Base parts; you can make them 1.5" or 3 inches long or modify to any other length.
    Make the base from 1/8” aluminum bar, you can get 1.5”, 2”, and 3” at Lowes and other hardware stores cheaply ($12 for 3 feet); cut 1-1/8” long pieces; I do this on my miter or Table saw; aluminum cuts nicely with woodworking blades and no damage.

    Make the block from a length of 1x 2; I said hardwood but pine is probably OK. Rip a foot piece to ~1.352”. Then you need two rabbets of .281 x .125; the .125 can be a little thicker. I raised the blade to 0.281” and set it just a hair away from the rip fence. Cut the groove and then just used my hand to break off the hairline piece. Cut to length.

    Use a drill press to accurately drill, tap, and countersink the base and block. Hint-use the fence to drill all the centerline holes exactly on the same centerline. When using a tap, still with the piece lined up to the fence, I put the tap in the drill press chuck and remove the belt so that the chuck turns freely. Use the quill lever to press lightly the tap into the hole while rotating the chuck clockwise to enter the hole. You can keep rotating the chuck and the tap will enter on its own and thread the hole as long as you keep a light pressure on the quill.
    The left face of the fixture block is designed to be flush with the left side of the Rip fence. The mounting holes are 5/8" and 2-1/8" apart for the short and long blocks respectively. As drawn the right side will be recessed from the right side fence because the T-track is not centered. If you wish to make the Right side of the block also flush with the right side of the rip fence, you need to add 0.225" to the far right side of center of the block making it asymmetrical.
    To complete the assembly you need two FH wood screws, #8 x5/8” (or as small as #6 x 5/8”) to fasten the base to the block as show below. Then you need a -28 UNF set screw set into the base with the point down and the hex drive side accessible from the hole in the top of the block. Initially set the tip of the set screw so it is retracted behind the bottom. The set screw will be used to lock the fixture block to the fence. I choose the " set screw, UNF to have at least three and a half threads engagement. You can probably also use 10-32 UNF or 8-32 UNC set screws if you prefer if you drill and tap the hole accordingly.
    Attach auxiliary fences and other items to the 1/8" pilot holes in the side of the fixture block, using wood screws. The center line of the holes will be approx. 2.25" above the BT3x00 table surface. I recommend leaving about 1/16th inch so your auxiliary fence does not drag when moving the fence.
    If desired, you can add mounting holes to the top of the block
    All dimensions are in inches; generally holding 0.01" is sufficient.
    to mount something like a tall fence to the BT3x00 rip fence, you will need at least 2 of these blocks.
    Copyright 2023 by Loring Chien, All rights reserved.

    May 24, 2023


    See the drawing: Visio-DIY Fixture block2.pdf
    How to install the block. Download the attached video file. Use a 1/8" hex Allen wrench to tighten the set screw in the center to the top of the fence to lock into position. Warning: the set screw may leave marks in the T-Track when tightened strongly.
    Attach any attachments to the side or top of the fixture blocks.- the holes in the side are 2.25" above the BT3 table surface

    Click image for larger version  Name:	20230523_184414.jpg Views:	1 Size:	74.9 KB ID:	855094 Click image for larger version  Name:	P5241258.jpg Views:	1 Size:	88.6 KB ID:	855095 Click image for larger version  Name:	P5241257.jpg Views:	1 Size:	62.6 KB ID:	855096 Click image for larger version  Name:	P5241259.jpg Views:	1 Size:	78.8 KB ID:	855097 Click image for larger version  Name:	20230524_130410.jpg Views:	1 Size:	171.5 KB ID:	855098 Click image for larger version  Name:	ALuminum bar 1_5 inch by 1_8th inch at lowes.jpg Views:	1 Size:	99.6 KB ID:	855091
    Attached Files

    • LCHIEN
      #1
      LCHIEN commented
      Editing a comment
      I did this kind of as an exercise - I pictured how I would make one.
      Its useful for holding a auxiliary tall fence as described here http://t-nuts.com/bt3c/sac_fence_plans.pdf
      However I personally find my high fence here to be a better solution https://www.sawdustzone.org/articles...g-fence-clamps

      because it clamps the tall fence directly to the rip fence to assure better alignment; the fixture block solution only holds along a single line so the bottom can kick out a little off of vertical.

      However I am aware there can be many other uses of the fixture.

    • leehljp
      #2
      leehljp commented
      Editing a comment
      Excellent idea and layout, Loring! Excellent!!!!

    • cwsmith
      #3
      cwsmith commented
      Editing a comment
      Very nice Loring,

      Your innovations are always impressive and that goes for your drafting skills too!

      CWS
    Posting comments is disabled.

Latest Articles

Collapse

  • How to make a BT3x00 Rip Fence/Miter Fence fixture block for mounting jigs
    by LCHIEN

    DIY BT3000 FIXTURE BLOCK for Rip/Miter Fence extrusion

    Simple shop construction - no machining.


    This is intended to fit the top T-track on the Rip and miter fence (uses the same extrusion) on the Ryobi BT3x00 / Craftsman 22811 family of saws
    You must make the Block and Base parts; you can make them 1.5" or 3 inches long or modify to any other length.
    Make the base from 1/8” aluminum bar, you can get 1.5”, 2”, and 3” at Lowes...
    05-24-2023, 09:55 PM
  • Another Thin Strip Jig
    by twistsol
    Ripping thin strips can be accomplished in a number of ways, but this jig is the best I've found so far.

    • There is no need to move the fence so every strip comes out exactly the same.
    • It is incredibly easy to build
    • It keeps your hands well away from the blade the whole time
    • It keeps control of the strip you are ripping all the way through the cut and past the blade
    • It doesn't interfere with the blade guard.
    • You can cut strips from any length of stock
    In the starting position,...
    04-16-2023, 10:42 AM
  • BT3000/BT3100 tall rip fence simple using fence clamps
    by LCHIEN
    BT3000 tall rip fence

    09-12-2021, 07:58 PM
    I have had a tall BT3000 fence for a number of years, I should have used it a few days ago but I didn't because it was too much trouble, And I paid the price as the tall item was a little unstable and I had a hard time controlling it as the two pieces separated and wallowed out a bigger kerf than I wanted at one place.

    Anyway the BT3000 tall fence is generally held on by the T-slots in the side of the rip fence. This is...
    10-20-2021, 03:27 AM
  • Extending rails/rail profiles
    by LCHIEN


    I am finally going to use my BT3000 extension rails.
    My objective is to have some easily attachable rail extensions rather than a full time wide BT3000 using two full rails taking up a lot of space and requiring table support under the right side as many do.
    I just want some wider support but not to do full 4x8 sheets of ply... if I need that, I'll break the sheet down on some sawhorses with a circ saw and some guides.

    I think I am going to cut my extension...
    08-14-2021, 11:32 AM
  • Thingamajig
    by Dedpedal
    One of my early attempts at making mallets had me thinking how badly things could end up if my piece got away from me while cutting so I came up with this little jig sled to secure my work while cutting a 30 bevel on the end of the head.
    A simple flat piece of 1/2” birch plywood with a fence squared to bot the sled and blade with gussets on one side and push type toggle clamps on the other. Right now I have to manually place the stop block with double sided tape but working on a t track...
    02-02-2021, 10:24 AM
  • LarryG's Dual-Width Extension Wing
    by LarryG
    Around the middle of 2006, I came up with an idea for an extension wing for my BT3100 table saw that solved some particular problems I had in my then-shop. The design worked well, and about a year later, on May 6, 2007, I started a thread on the old bt3central.com discussion forum and shared my design with the other members.

    I called it the Dual-Width Extension wing, and you can see it here:

    https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...extension-wing

    Almost immediately,...
    02-01-2021, 02:10 PM

The SawdustZone Statistics

Collapse

Topics: 60,998   Posts: 556,437   Members: 20,312   Active Members: 40
Welcome to our newest member, alishakihn.

What's Going On

Collapse

There are currently 1570 users online. 2 members and 1568 guests.

Most users ever online was 5,063 at 07:07 PM on 05-27-2023.

Working...
X