After reading Ed62’s article I was invigorated. During my first use of my new 21829, I felt the need for left side turn off and Ed had supplied an answer. I sat before my saw and considered Ed’s solution. Good, but I thought I saw another approach. I wanted a switch that could be easily added or removed, one that interfered with saw function to a minimal extent and one that could be adjusted to eliminate any slop in my construction efforts. (This is important; I received my training as an electrical engineer. Forced to take an entry level mechanical engineering course (ME101) I flew through the statics part and barely escaped after dynamics). Besides, I didn’t have any PVC pipe in my shop.

Fortunately Sears (read Ryobi) has provided a plethora of opportunities for customization. Notably, in this case, the one inch T-channel on the bottom of the front rail. By attaching a hinge to a slide inserted in this channel I was able to construct a cutoff switch, which met my requirements. I selected a piano hinge because it could be mounted flush to the slide and the dimensions were appropriate for the narrow slide. To the hinge I mounted two pieces of aluminum, one to carry a bolt used as a finger to push the switch and another to aid in support of a bar for throwing the switch to turn off the saw. A long, but narrow, push bar was added attached to the aluminum supports. Job done, all else is details.

Materials
Slide 1”x 1/8” x 4” steel
Hinge 1 1/16” x 30”
Support 6” x 3” x 1/8” Aluminum
Support 3” x 3 “ x 1/8 Aluminum
Push Bar 6’ x 2” x 1/2” walnut (or what you have)
Hardware #10-32 x 3/8” screws, nuts and washers (used as spacers)
Clamp screws (2) 5/16”
Finger 3” x ¼” bolt + nut and plastic end cap


Tools
# 10-32 Die
5/16 Die
Drill or drill press, drill bits
Hacksaw (for steel)
Jig saw (for Aluminum)
File (to smooth edges of metal)
Wrenches

For photos and AL plate dimensions (too large a format for this site); email cwithboat@yahoo.com