Wide Table With Miter Slots


  • Wide Table With Miter Slots

    Originally Posted by Dave Johnson in the category BT3000 Modifications & Enhancements

    Well I have been out in the shop taking some measurements and I think I have everything straight. I will just tell this as a kind of sequence of events to make it easier for myself.

    I started out buying Ryobi's wide table kit, Part#4730300, and the wide table leg set, Part# 4730305. The wide table kit extends the rails 41" inches and the leg set supports the rails and whatever table you add to it. The wide table kit is around $155 and the leg set is about $35. The wide table setup is only necessary if you want the extended cutting capacity but I would recommend the leg set if you end up with with a table top as thick as mine to keep all the weight off the rails.

    Wide table with Miter Slots by Dave Johnson

    STEP 1 For the top I used a piece of 5/4 counter top material with a plastic laminate on the top. I lucked out and picked this up as an outfit was throwing it away. I had planned on gluing two pieces of 3/4" MDF together and installing me own laminate but never look a gift horse in the mouth. HA! Anyway my top measures 22 1/4" by 48" for the long side and 22 1/4" by 14 1/4" on the left. I aligned the rails so that the black 0 is aligned with the right side of the blade. My ripping is done on the right with that being the long side of the table and the short side of the table is on the left. To attach the table to the rails I bought some angle brackets from Ryobi but I don't have a number for them, and parts from the user kit. I used six brackets on the long side and two on the short side. Down each side of both tables I routed a 1/2" by 1/2" rabbit to make it easier to attach the brackets to the rails and to provide some adjustment for leveling. On the long table top stop the rabbets 5" from the saw end of the table. This stops the rabbets from interfering with the shims you will add in the next step

    STEP 2 When installing the long table I added 2-5/16" spacers positioned over the flats on the right side of the table saw. The spacers were close to 5/16". What I did is planed two strips of wood down and test fit them until with the extension table sitting on the flats it was even with the saw top. With the table on the left side just the opposite must be done. Routing just over a 1/2" by 3/4" rabbet on the end next to the saw. Again routing and test fitting so that when the rabbit is sitting on the ledge of the table saw the table top and saw top are even.

    Step 3 Now that the tables are installed I started on the miter slots. The first time I did this I used a Fasttrack Adjustable Miter Track Part# 08.60.67 and is 42" long. It is available from Highland Hardware. Their phone# is (404)872-4466. I have since changed over to what they call Dual Track. Part# 7213-220 available from WoodsmithShop. Their phone# is 1-800-444-7002. I think my miter bar is an odd size and the fasttrack didn't give me quite the fit I wanted. The dual track provides more adjustability and gives you an additional T-track that accepts toilet bolts for some nice accessories such as a featherbaord etc. With the fasttrack I ordered one 42" track at $24.95 and cut it in half. This gave me a slot for each side of the table. With the dual track I ordered 2 at $24.95. They are 32" long and I cut them down to fit. You could probably give both places a call and I'm sure the would send you a catalog. Whichever one you choose the main thing is keeping the track parelell to the blade. To do this I raised the blade to max and laid a level along the blade being careful not to flex the blade. I clamped it to the saw top and then clamped another level to the side of it. With my router against the level as a straight edge my bit was about 6" from the blade. I used a 1/2" straight bit and cut a 1/4" slot across the table. I then shimed between the two levels and then clamped them back together. This moved the router bit out to the final width of the miter track. I then repeated these steps sneaking up on the final depth until the miter slot fits level with the table top.

    Step 4 If you use Ryobi’s angle brackets you will find that you need to install two fender washers between each bracket and the rail. I use mail threaded knobs to attach the left hand table to the rails. That way it is easy to remove it to reinstall Ryobi’s sliding miter table. Before you take it off the first time it would recommend making an alignment jig to make the extension table easy to reinstall and maintain alignment with the blade. An easy way to do this is to fit a piece of hardwood to each miter slot. Make them the full length of the miter slot. Lower the blade below the table and lay a scrap piece of plywood down. Pull the plywood and hardwood strips out past the front of the table far enough to drill up through the hardwood strips and into the plywood. Repeat this at the back of the saw. Mark the plywood as to left and right side. Now whenever you have to reinstall your left hand extension table use your alignment jig to maintain parallel between the miter slot and the blade.

    Original PDF Document:

    Wide table with Miter Slots by Dave Johnson 01

    Wide table with Miter Slots by Dave Johnson 02

    Wide table with Miter Slots by Dave Johnson 03

      Posting comments is disabled.

    Latest Articles


    • Small T-Nut for the Left side of Rip Fence and Front of Miter Fence on BT3x saws.
      by LCHIEN
      Small T-nut for the left side of BT3 rip fence or front of miter fence (Article Version)

      11-30-2023, 04:00 PM
      I have found a perfect T-nut for the front of the BT3 miter fence and for the left side of the rip fence (same extrusion used both places)

      Its actually a weld nut, but fits the T-slot described above.

      Weld Nut: #10-24 Thread, Tab, 1/32 in Base Ht, 3/8 in Base Wd, 5/8 in Base Lg, Steel, 50 PK
      Item 1LAJ3 Mfr. Model 1LAJ3​ (WW Graingers)...
      12-07-2023, 12:19 AM
    • Special DIY T-bolt for BT3000 Miter Fence, Rip Fence and Rails
      by LCHIEN
      After a bit more thinking, some universal T-bolts for the rip miter fence make more sense than fixture blocks.
      The two big slots in the rip fence and the miter fence and the front and rear rails are sized to take 1.00 inches wide x 1/8th and 1-1/8" wide x 1/8th.

      So I took some 1/8th flat Aluminum 1.00 inches wide and cut 1-1/8" long to make a 1" x 1-1/8" rectangular plates; I used a short rip fence Block to space the length but not cause a kickback with the...
      07-09-2023, 02:37 PM
    • How to make a BT3x00 Rip Fence/Miter Fence fixture block for mounting jigs
      by LCHIEN

      DIY BT3000 FIXTURE BLOCK for Rip/Miter Fence extrusion

      Simple shop construction - no machining.

      This is intended to fit the top T-track on the Rip and miter fence (uses the same extrusion) on the Ryobi BT3x00 / Craftsman 22811 family of saws
      You must make the Block and Base parts; you can make them 1.5" or 3 inches long or modify to any other length.
      Make the base from 1/8” aluminum bar, you can get 1.5”, 2”, and 3” at Lowes...
      05-24-2023, 09:55 PM
    • Another Thin Strip Jig
      by twistsol
      Ripping thin strips can be accomplished in a number of ways, but this jig is the best I've found so far.

      • There is no need to move the fence so every strip comes out exactly the same.
      • It is incredibly easy to build
      • It keeps your hands well away from the blade the whole time
      • It keeps control of the strip you are ripping all the way through the cut and past the blade
      • It doesn't interfere with the blade guard.
      • You can cut strips from any length of stock
      In the starting position,...
      04-16-2023, 10:42 AM
    • BT3000/BT3100 tall rip fence simple using fence clamps
      by LCHIEN
      BT3000 tall rip fence

      09-12-2021, 07:58 PM
      I have had a tall BT3000 fence for a number of years, I should have used it a few days ago but I didn't because it was too much trouble, And I paid the price as the tall item was a little unstable and I had a hard time controlling it as the two pieces separated and wallowed out a bigger kerf than I wanted at one place.

      Anyway the BT3000 tall fence is generally held on by the T-slots in the side of the rip fence. This is...
      10-20-2021, 03:27 AM
    • Extending rails/rail profiles
      by LCHIEN

      I am finally going to use my BT3000 extension rails.
      My objective is to have some easily attachable rail extensions rather than a full time wide BT3000 using two full rails taking up a lot of space and requiring table support under the right side as many do.
      I just want some wider support but not to do full 4x8 sheets of ply... if I need that, I'll break the sheet down on some sawhorses with a circ saw and some guides.

      I think I am going to cut my extension...
      08-14-2021, 11:32 AM

    The SawdustZone Statistics


    Topics: 61,323   Posts: 558,796   Members: 20,658   Active Members: 66
    Welcome to our newest member, simos.

    What's Going On


    There are currently 5845 users online. 3 members and 5842 guests.

    Most users ever online was 15,771 at 02:28 PM on 04-26-2024.