Shopmade Outfeed Cabinet


  • Shopmade Outfeed Cabinet

    Originally Posted by Dave Johnson in the category Fence Attachments

    This project came about because of my lack of cabinet space and my growing dissatisfaction with out-feed rollers. The top I used was 1 1/4 particleboard with a plastic laminate top. I chose this mostly because I had it on hand. You can use whatever you have and adjust the dimensions accordingly. Also, when the slab was poured in the building I am using for a shop they were not very good about leveling it. Because of this I built my cabinet about 1/4 lower than the top of my saw and used Kitchen cabinet type leveling legs to bring it even and level with the saw top. The top of my saw measures 37 1/4 from the ground and sitting flat the height of the cabinet is 37 even. I bought the leg levelers from The Woodworkers Store, Part # 20826. They come four to a set at $9.95 a set. They measure 4 at their shortest and give you 7/8 of adjustment. Phone # is 1-800- 279-4441.

    Step 1 Start by gluing up the drawer box. I used 3/4 melemine. Any 3/4 material can be used but if it is melamine you need to make a rabbet 3/4 wide and just deep enough to remove the melamine from each end of the top and bottom. This gives you an area to glue the sides to. Glue and clamp the drawer box measuring the diagonals to ensure it is square. If it is out of square put a clamp across the diagonal and pull it into square.
    While this is drying cut the back and sides to size. I used 3/4 hardwood plywood for the sides and 3/4 cdx plywood for the back. Rabbet the backs and side, 3/4 wide x 3/4 deep. Measure up from the bottom 4 on the sides and back. This is where to drawer box will sit. Set the drawer box in place on the back. glue and clamp the sides to the back. From the inside of the drawer box drill and screw the box to the sides. I used about 5 or 6 screws on each side alternating from top to bottom. Keep the screws away from where you are going to mount your drawer slides.

    Step 2 This is a good time to install the leveling legs. Attach them to the bottom of the drawer box and adjust them so they are just longer than the sides. Stand the cabinet up and cut three 3/4 x 3/4 strips of hardwood to use for fastening the top. Make the two side pieces 20 long and the back piece 22 long. On the side pieces measure every 2 and drill and countersink a hole for attaching the piece to the side. Turn the piece 90 degrees and measure 1 from the end and then every 2 and drill and countersink a whole for attaching the top. Repeat this process for the back piece and install these pieces to the back and sides even with the tops of the back and sides. Measure and mark the top according to the print and install. Fasten it by drilling up through the holes in the attaching pieces and screw in place.

    Step 3 Measure your opening for the doors. If everything went all right you should be able to cut your door to the size in the drawings. Cut your doors and mortise the hinges into the doors and sides and install. The last thing you need to do is rout the top for clearance of your miter slots or sliding table, or both. Set the out-feed table in place and mark where the table needs to be routed so there is no interference when the sliding table or miter slots are at there full extension. Once these have been routed the out-feed cabinet can be attached to the saw rails with angle brackets using the small channel in the back side of the rail and nuts from the users kit.

    I hope this helps you. Feel free to modify it in any way that suits your needs. Keep that sawdust piling up and enjoy.

    Original PDF Document:

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