Rod Kirby's Miter Slot For The BT3000


  • Rod Kirby's Miter Slot For The BT3000

    Rod Kirby’s Miter Slot (Fence) For the Ryobi BT3000

    Hey Guys, this is not a difficult thing to make – but it takes a lot of words to describe how to do it. Use the photos with all this text, and I’m sure you’ll find it very straight forward.

    If some of the sizes look “funny”, it’s because here in Australia we work in millimetres and I have converted for you. I really feel sorry for you – it’s soooooo much easier than using inches.

    You know the drill, folks – read ALL of these instructions first.

    I wanted something which I could adjust precisely, lock securely, and be easy to attach and take off. The adjustments took the most “think” time, but ended up being quite simple.

    Qty Item Purpose
    2 6” long x 2-3/8” x 1/8” Aluminum angle Brackets
    4 3⁄4” x No. 8 self tapper screws Attach brackets to fence
    6 1” x No. 8 Countersunk screws Alignment screws
    1 5/16” Knob + flat "nut" From Ryobi User kit Attach bracket to back of Front rail
    3 5/16” mudguard washers Spacers for front knob
    2 1⁄4” x 1⁄2” square head bolts From Ryobi User kit Attach bracket to back of Rear rail
    2 1⁄4” knobs & washers Hold the rear bracket
    1 31-1⁄4” TrueFit miter track From

    I used a piece of 1-1⁄4” MDF, laminated on one side, because this is how it came from the “counter top” store – as an offcut. I don’t like using anything that is only laminated on one side, but the (very) slight bow was pulled out (and kept straight) by the miter track. Whatever you pick, make sure it will stay flat.

    Overall dimensions:
    Length 37-1⁄4”: I wanted the front to extend out as far as the SMT base. This length gives me 15-1⁄2” from the miter fence to the saw blade. The overhang at the back was determined by the width of the bracket.
    Width 7-7/8” : I wanted it wide enough to allow for a “T” attachment to the rails – two bolts at the back, and one at the front. This is 200mm for me and sort of looked right. Maybe it doesn’t need to be this wide?
    Thickness 1- 1⁄4” - because this is the size I got from the “counter top” people! The table height above the rails (on my saw) is almost 1-5/32”. I wanted the thickness to be slightly less, so I could use adjusting screws to position precisely. Because of this, you will notice that I had to cut a slight dado above each rail - if you go for around an inch thick, you wont need to do this.
    Slot location: I centered mine – put it where you want it.

    Height: Two screws above each rail.
    Saw alignment (swing): A screw at each end, on the left hand side of the fence.

    1. Cut the fence to your dimensions and rout the miter bar/track slot. Cut/ round the corners. Mount the miter track if you use one.
    2. Cut the angle brackets, round the corners, and mark/drill the holes for the mounting screws. The bolt holes come later.
    3. Lay the fence on the rails, hard up against the right hand side of the saw table. Decide on the location (front & rear) and clamp the fence to the rails. On the underside, carefully mark where the brackets will go – run a pencil along the rail. At the same time, on the side of the fence, mark where you want the height adjusting screws to go – centered above the rails.
    4. Remove the fence and align the brackets with the marks you have made, and carefully mark/drill the screw holes. Then enlarge the screw holes in the brackets by 2 sizes – this should give you enough “play” for adjustment. Drill the holes for the height adjusting screws.
    5. Attach the brackets (not too tightly – they will be on and off a few times). Insert the height adjusting screws.
    6. Lay the fence on the rails, and move the auxiliary table up against fence. Adjust the height screws so that you have alignment across the saw table + miter slot + auxiliary fence. Don’t worry if you can’t get everything “perfect” – I know the tables aren’t exactly level with each other. In my experience, they are not “off” enough to pose a practical problem.
    7. Remove the auxiliary table and (lightly) clamp the miter fence to the rails. Now for the only tricky part: Mark the (horizontal) location of the 5/16” bolt on the front bracket. Then mark the (horizontal) location for the two 1⁄4” bolts on the rear bracket. I used a small try square against the rails to help.
    8. Remove the brackets and drill the bolt holes. Because the fence is “dropped” onto the rails, you need to cut slots in the rear bracket, to slide over the bolts. This is not a problem with the front bracket, because the flat “nut” slides behind the bracket.
    9. Re-attach the brackets, and test-fit the bolts. If you “missed” the alignment, enlarge/file the holes until they fit OK. Nothing should “jam” – in fact, you should have a little “slop”, to allow for final alignment.
    10. Remove the fence and drill the countersunk holes for the two “swing” alignment screws, on the left hand edge of the fence. I put them 1” in, from each end of the saw table. Insert the screws.
    11. Alignment with the saw: At this point, your brackets should be “loose”, and the bolts holding the brackets lightly attached. Adjusting the two screws on the edge (and then pressing the fence against the saw table), align the slot with the saw. See the photo for how I did this.
    12. Once you’re happy with the alignment, insert the auxiliary table, slide it up against the fence and lock it. Tighten the 3 knobs, making sure that the brackets snug up against the rails. (If they don’t, you will have to enlarge the mounting holes in the brackets). Then, from underneath, tighten the 4 screws holding the brackets to the fence. Re-check alignment and run some test cuts to confirm.
    Over the last 7 years, I’ve come up with a setup for the BT3K which suits me 99.9% of the time: SMT on the left, rails as far to the right as possible. For this reason, I did not make any allowance for mounting the miter slot on the left of the saw. Mounting it on the right allows (relatively) easy access to the knobs. I also don’t believe it needs to move along the rails (“normal” slots aren’t movable!). Although it’s early days, because all the action is fore & aft, I don’t think it will need constant adjustment.

    If you need any help, please contact me...

    Original PDF Document:

    Click image for larger version  Name:	MiterSlot0001.jpg Views:	1 Size:	56.8 KB ID:	834497

    Click image for larger version  Name:	MiterSlot0002.jpg Views:	1 Size:	31.6 KB ID:	834508

    Click image for larger version  Name:	MiterSlot0003.jpg Views:	1 Size:	39.3 KB ID:	834498

    Click image for larger version  Name:	MiterSlot0004.jpg Views:	1 Size:	30.3 KB ID:	834499

    Click image for larger version  Name:	MiterSlot0005.jpg Views:	1 Size:	46.1 KB ID:	834500

    Click image for larger version  Name:	MiterSlot0006.jpg Views:	1 Size:	50.3 KB ID:	834501

    Click image for larger version  Name:	MiterSlot0007.jpg Views:	1 Size:	46.6 KB ID:	834502

    Click image for larger version  Name:	MiterSlot0008.jpg Views:	1 Size:	53.0 KB ID:	834503

    Click image for larger version  Name:	MiterSlot0009.jpg Views:	1 Size:	55.5 KB ID:	834504

    Click image for larger version  Name:	MiterSlot0010.jpg Views:	1 Size:	105.2 KB ID:	834505

    Click image for larger version  Name:	MiterSlot0011.jpg Views:	1 Size:	75.2 KB ID:	834506

    Click image for larger version  Name:	MiterSlot0012.jpg Views:	1 Size:	77.1 KB ID:	834507

    • MikeT
      MikeT commented
      Editing a comment
      Thanks for posting the info.
    Posting comments is disabled.

Latest Articles


  • Small T-Nut for the Left side of Rip Fence and Front of Miter Fence on BT3x saws.
    by LCHIEN
    Small T-nut for the left side of BT3 rip fence or front of miter fence (Article Version)

    11-30-2023, 04:00 PM
    I have found a perfect T-nut for the front of the BT3 miter fence and for the left side of the rip fence (same extrusion used both places)

    Its actually a weld nut, but fits the T-slot described above.

    Weld Nut: #10-24 Thread, Tab, 1/32 in Base Ht, 3/8 in Base Wd, 5/8 in Base Lg, Steel, 50 PK
    Item 1LAJ3 Mfr. Model 1LAJ3​ (WW Graingers)...
    12-07-2023, 12:19 AM
  • Special DIY T-bolt for BT3000 Miter Fence, Rip Fence and Rails
    by LCHIEN
    After a bit more thinking, some universal T-bolts for the rip miter fence make more sense than fixture blocks.
    The two big slots in the rip fence and the miter fence and the front and rear rails are sized to take 1.00 inches wide x 1/8th and 1-1/8" wide x 1/8th.

    So I took some 1/8th flat Aluminum 1.00 inches wide and cut 1-1/8" long to make a 1" x 1-1/8" rectangular plates; I used a short rip fence Block to space the length but not cause a kickback with the...
    07-09-2023, 02:37 PM
  • How to make a BT3x00 Rip Fence/Miter Fence fixture block for mounting jigs
    by LCHIEN

    DIY BT3000 FIXTURE BLOCK for Rip/Miter Fence extrusion

    Simple shop construction - no machining.

    This is intended to fit the top T-track on the Rip and miter fence (uses the same extrusion) on the Ryobi BT3x00 / Craftsman 22811 family of saws
    You must make the Block and Base parts; you can make them 1.5" or 3 inches long or modify to any other length.
    Make the base from 1/8” aluminum bar, you can get 1.5”, 2”, and 3” at Lowes...
    05-24-2023, 09:55 PM
  • Another Thin Strip Jig
    by twistsol
    Ripping thin strips can be accomplished in a number of ways, but this jig is the best I've found so far.

    • There is no need to move the fence so every strip comes out exactly the same.
    • It is incredibly easy to build
    • It keeps your hands well away from the blade the whole time
    • It keeps control of the strip you are ripping all the way through the cut and past the blade
    • It doesn't interfere with the blade guard.
    • You can cut strips from any length of stock
    In the starting position,...
    04-16-2023, 10:42 AM
  • BT3000/BT3100 tall rip fence simple using fence clamps
    by LCHIEN
    BT3000 tall rip fence

    09-12-2021, 07:58 PM
    I have had a tall BT3000 fence for a number of years, I should have used it a few days ago but I didn't because it was too much trouble, And I paid the price as the tall item was a little unstable and I had a hard time controlling it as the two pieces separated and wallowed out a bigger kerf than I wanted at one place.

    Anyway the BT3000 tall fence is generally held on by the T-slots in the side of the rip fence. This is...
    10-20-2021, 03:27 AM
  • Extending rails/rail profiles
    by LCHIEN

    I am finally going to use my BT3000 extension rails.
    My objective is to have some easily attachable rail extensions rather than a full time wide BT3000 using two full rails taking up a lot of space and requiring table support under the right side as many do.
    I just want some wider support but not to do full 4x8 sheets of ply... if I need that, I'll break the sheet down on some sawhorses with a circ saw and some guides.

    I think I am going to cut my extension...
    08-14-2021, 11:32 AM

The SawdustZone Statistics


Topics: 61,284   Posts: 558,559   Members: 20,627   Active Members: 65
Welcome to our newest member, harveywall.

What's Going On


There are currently 2766 users online. 3 members and 2763 guests.

Most users ever online was 11,606 at 02:28 AM on 03-29-2024.