BT3000/3100 Featherboard using SMT

Collapse
X
Collapse
  •  

  • BT3000/3100 Featherboard using SMT

    Here's how I do my Featherboard operations. As you know, Featherboards are spring boards meant to hold the workpiece against the fence snugly to ensure accurate rips while freeing both your hands for hand over hand and push stick smooth, even feeding of the workpiece to avoid burning and sawmarks.

    The Feather board is the classic one that they suggest you make.... Mine was made 20+ years ago, apparently a 1x4 piece of pine wood with one end cut at 30 degrees. 15-16 inches long 3 to 3-1/2" long fingers. See the picture with ruler for example dimensions.
    The end was feathered by raising the blade quite a bit to make the end of the cut more vertical and less shallow. Mark a parallel 30 degree line where the blade cuts should end then repeatedly make a partial rip with the cuts about 3/8 to 1/4" apart. With a thin kerf blade I'd go 3/8" increments (use the rip fence measure tape)

    Then I slotted the center of the featherboard with a 3/8" slot using a 3/8" straight grooving router bit and a router fence and stop blocks, Raise the bit about 1/8" per pass. If I was fdoing it again I'd make the slot about 1/2" longer at each end than my picture.
    You will need to buy a 5/16-18 x 2" hex head bolt and 5/16 flat washer and a female 5/16-18 thru-threaded knob of some sort, a 2-1/4" dia star knob at my local hardware store (Ace),

    Click image for larger version  Name:	20240415_181259.jpg Views:	0 Size:	235.0 KB ID:	858548
    Click image for larger version  Name:	image.png Views:	0 Size:	1.03 MB ID:	858547

    How to use it - Refer to the picture:
    • I lock the SMT in position with a F-clamp on the left hand side, just squeeze the SMT to the base so it doesn't slide after placing it where you want it. More on that in a minute.
    • I set the Miter fence to 30 degrees (makes the edge of the featherboard flush to the workpiece.) The Fence just as far to the left as you need to pass the workpiece past the right end of the fence. You can move the SMT to the left more if there is not enough room. Lock the fence securely.
    • Thread the bolt, featherboard, washer and knob in that order, Leave about 1/2" slack. Drop the bolt head thru the hole at the top of the slot in the SMT and then slide it down until the featherboard is against the miter fence, Take up the slack in the knob making it just sliding tight.
    • Set the rip width you want with the rip fence; Then adjust the cutting height of the blade to the desired height.. About a half inch taller than the work for thru cuts is what I would use.
    • Slide the featherboard so that it just touches the left side of the workpiece which is flush against the rip fence.
    • Adjust the SMT position (you will have to loosen and move the F-clamp) so that the upper tip of the feather board is just before where the blade exits from below the table.
    • Now move the Featherboard about 1/16th to the right so that it will engage the workpiece with a little side pressure. Lock it down securely. If your feather board is stiff, you may want less, if your board is flexible you can use more. Mine is good with about 1/16th. There should be some feel-able resistance as you push the board, enabling a steady feed and it helps keep the workpiece from lifting off the blade.
    Click image for larger version

Name:	image.png
Views:	86
Size:	783.3 KB
ID:	858588

    Attached Files
    Last edited by LCHIEN; 04-20-2024, 08:41 AM.
      Posting comments is disabled.

    Latest Articles

    Collapse

    • How to drill perfectly placed hole into outside corner
      by LCHIEN
      Trying to drill into a outside 90 degree corner, 45 to each side, is tough, the drill bit keeps wanting to walk off.
      You can whack a small flat on the corner.
      But here is a way I did it perfectly. Using this corner drill jig

      Using the drilling jig, One hand is enough to hold the jig while drilling. The small board touching the top of the jig is my measurement stick. I use that to set the precise reproducible location of the hole relative to the top of the workpiece....
      04-26-2024, 10:41 PM
    • BT3000/3100 Featherboard using SMT
      by LCHIEN
      Here's how I do my Featherboard operations. As you know, Featherboards are spring boards meant to hold the workpiece against the fence snugly to ensure accurate rips while freeing both your hands for hand over hand and push stick smooth, even feeding of the workpiece to avoid burning and sawmarks.

      The Feather board is the classic one that they suggest you make.... Mine was made 20+ years ago, apparently a 1x4 piece of pine wood with one end cut at 30 degrees. 15-16 inches long 3 to...
      04-15-2024, 06:19 PM
    • BT3000/BT3100 Belly pan easy dust collection
      by LCHIEN
      I made a belly pan dust collection for my BT3000, using a commercially available, cheap dust pan from one of the woodworking supply houses with a 4" hose fitting.

      It seems to work effectively very simple DC belly pan under BT3000. Not tightly fitting I wanted to allow air in to carry the dust to the DC, pulling on a closed cabinet is not a good idea. So the plywood sits on the stand, not screwed down or anything. So there's air coming in thru the ends and the Shroud dust port arc....
      03-16-2024, 04:37 PM
    • BT3000/BT3100 rip fence and miter fence stop block
      by LCHIEN

      With the small t-nut for the front of the rip fence and miter fence, I made a new stop block that can be used on both
      https://www.sawdustzone.org/articles...nce-attachment

      When used on the rip fence , it can set a stop for cross cutting fixed lengths off a piece against the miter fence without risking a kickback from continuous...
      02-17-2024, 01:43 AM
    • Small T-Nut for the Left side of Rip Fence and Front of Miter Fence on BT3x saws.
      by LCHIEN
      Small T-nut for the left side of BT3 rip fence or front of miter fence (Article Version)

      11-30-2023, 04:00 PM
      I have found a perfect T-nut for the front of the BT3 miter fence and for the left side of the rip fence (same extrusion used both places)

      Its actually a weld nut, but fits the T-slot described above.

      Weld Nut: #10-24 Thread, Tab, 1/32 in Base Ht, 3/8 in Base Wd, 5/8 in Base Lg, Steel, 50 PK
      Item 1LAJ3 Mfr. Model 1LAJ3​ (WW Graingers)...
      12-07-2023, 12:19 AM
    • Special DIY T-bolt for BT3000 Miter Fence, Rip Fence and Rails
      by LCHIEN
      After a bit more thinking, some universal T-bolts for the rip miter fence make more sense than fixture blocks.
      The two big slots in the rip fence and the miter fence and the front and rear rails are sized to take 1.00 inches wide x 1/8th and 1-1/8" wide x 1/8th.

      So I took some 1/8th flat Aluminum 1.00 inches wide and cut 1-1/8" long to make a 1" x 1-1/8" rectangular plates; I used a short rip fence Block to space the length but not cause a kickback with the...
      07-09-2023, 02:37 PM

    The SawdustZone Statistics

    Collapse

    Topics: 61,319   Posts: 558,761   Members: 20,656   Active Members: 69
    Welcome to our newest member, WoodyWood19.

    What's Going On

    Collapse

    There are currently 3368 users online. 2 members and 3366 guests.

    Most users ever online was 15,771 at 02:28 PM on 04-26-2024.

    Working...