Found the air compressor running, fixed it better than new!

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  • cwsmith
    Veteran Member
    • Dec 2005
    • 2740
    • NY Southern Tier, USA.
    • BT3100-1

    #16
    Carl,

    Taking another look at your photos and paying closer attention (on my tablet this time) I just noticed that the label is the motor data, not the compressor! You should have a similar label, most likely metal that is on the compressor frame (crankcase); usually attached with drive screws. The label should provide the date of manufacture, country of origin, manufacturing plant, model number, serial number, and maximum pressure output in scfm @ psi. Not sure if back then they gave scfm @ both 40 and 90 psi as they do now.

    Also, there should be a metal label on the tank showing the ASME mark and giving the date, MAWP, and rating data.

    CWS
    Last edited by cwsmith; 04-27-2016, 10:38 AM.
    Think it Through Before You Do!

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    • cwsmith
      Veteran Member
      • Dec 2005
      • 2740
      • NY Southern Tier, USA.
      • BT3100-1

      #17
      Just catching up on a few-days-old E-mails and I found this article from Woodworkers Journal. I thought you might find it interesting:




      CWS
      Think it Through Before You Do!

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      • tfischer
        Veteran Member
        • Jul 2003
        • 2343
        • Plymouth (Minneapolis), MN, USA.
        • BT3100

        #18
        Was using a compressor from the 70s or maybe even earlier that was my wife's dad's. Finally decided to replace it with a new vertical one (oilless, unfortunately, so it's much louder). I knew the old one didn't old pressure long but didn't realize it had a pinhole leak in it until I was prepping to sell it. It may have been that way for a long time as it never held air for more than a few hours so I always just plugged it in when I needed it. My new one seems to hold air indefinitely.

        I need to be much better about draining the tank though... and if that's going to happen I either need to install an auto drain valve or at least a ball valve because I'm certainly not going to crawl on my belly with a wrench every time. Depressurizing it after each use seems way overkill and a waste, though... Mine takes maybe 5 minutes to recharge from empty.

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        • cwsmith
          Veteran Member
          • Dec 2005
          • 2740
          • NY Southern Tier, USA.
          • BT3100-1

          #19
          I pulled the little twist valve from underneath my tank and installed an elbow, long nipple, and and a new ball-valve on my 33-gal tank. Now it's just a matter of reaching down and turning the valve to drain the tank. So much easier as I don't have to get down on these old knees and reach under the tank.

          Got all the needed parts at the (then local) TSC (tractor supply store). They have a regular "compressor" display of parts and accessories.

          CWS
          Think it Through Before You Do!

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