Getting hardwood trim flush to plywood

[sailor55330]

Good Morning-

I am working on a project that requires using 1/2" maple ply and then adding a 1/2 x 3/4 maple hardwood piece to the edge. I've tried to cut the trim piece as close to size as I can, but the glue up always seems to be a slight bit off, so I'm thinking the best thing to do is cut the hardwood just slightly oversize and then trim flush with a bearing bit in my trim router, except that running a trim router on a 1/2" edge isn't much for the trim router to ride on. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to run a router along an edge that is only 1/2" wide? I tried to clamp a flat piece of stock to the back side to create a wider surface to run the router base on, but wasn't really happy with the results. I was thinking about making a tall 90 degree support and then running it through a router table, but not sure that would really work either. I probably need to remove less than 1/16" in most cases. I could sand it, but since there 10 of these shelves that are 12" wide x 2 sides....it wouldn't be very efficient, plus, I'd hate to sand through the veneer.


Thanks for any feedback

[poolhound]

You should think of referencing off the top surface using a flush trim base for your router. here are a couple of examples but you should find lots of other references on the interweb.

http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip101300ws.html

http://www.startwoodworking.com/post/build-flush-trim-base-your-router

[atgcpaul]

That jig in the first link above was what I would suggest, too.

You could also do the tall fence. Just raise the fence the height of the trim off the table. Set the outer edge of your bit flush with the surface of your fence and run your board through. It will "joint" your trim flush to the face of your shelf.

[Grampy122]

I just got saw this in my e-mail. http://www.fastcap.com/estore/pc/vie...dproduct=56204

[JR]

This might be a good opportunity to tune up your no.4 hand plane!

Side benefit: a decent upper body workout.

[sailor55330]

Thank you all again for the advice. I'm going to work on a base this evening. Seems straightforward.

As for the #4 tune up, well, you can't work with what you don't have.....sadly enough.

[Cochese]

I went through a similar dilemma a few weeks ago and decided to order the OF1010 and edge guide. Works well, but it's a pricey solution.

[JimD]

The second linked article also has a good point. A well tuned plane is perhaps a better way to take off small amounts. But it should be set to take a light cut (so it won't damage the veneer).

[capncarl]

I go the extra length to keep the shelf cap flush with the top of the board to reduce the extra work on the boards. To do this I clamp on stop boards on the shelf board top to align the edge piece and not allow it to slip above the shelf top. Sometimes I cut in a couple of biscuits help hold the edge piece aligned as well. If I have to do any clean up work it will be mostly on the bottom of the shelf board where it is not as visible

I like how my son finished his shelf faces, he ironed on edge band, no fiddling with the extra board! That will be my go to shelf finish.

[Condoman44]

I have used the iron on method for years and love it. I have had the Woodtek portable edge banding system for 16 years and use a hand veneer iron for touch-up. Whether painted or stained it is a great way to finish plywood edges.