How to Anchor Bookcase to Wall

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  • partialresponse
    Forum Newbie
    • Dec 2003
    • 61
    • Morgan Hill, CA, USA.
    • Ryobi BT 3000

    How to Anchor Bookcase to Wall

    I'm completing a set of tall bookcases and I'd appreciate some ideas on how these are usually anchored to a wall. The bookcase has been built as three sections - each 7 ft tall by 32 inches wide by 12 inches deep. The back is 1/4 inch plywood. The shelves (5 in each section) are all adjustable using shelf standards. How is something like this anchored to a standard drywall-over-studs wall? I'd imagine something at the back of the top would do it? Of course it needs to be hidden. There is some crown molding on the top which could hide things. I'm in California (Bay Area) so I'm mindful of movement due to earthquakes.

    Thanks
    Kofi
  • woodturner
    Veteran Member
    • Jun 2008
    • 2047
    • Western Pennsylvania
    • General, Sears 21829, BT3100

    #2
    Originally posted by partialresponse
    How is something like this anchored to a standard drywall-over-studs wall?...I'm in California (Bay Area) so I'm mindful of movement due to earthquakes.
    I would advise checking to see if there are local guidelines or regulations - I don't know if the conventional methods are earthquake-proof.

    The normal way is with a "figure eight" bracket, angle bracket, or strap. One side or end it attached to the bookcase and the other is attached to a stud in the wall. Found this article online that describes the process.
    --------------------------------------------------
    Electrical Engineer by day, Woodworker by night

    Comment

    • RAFlorida
      Veteran Member
      • Apr 2008
      • 1179
      • Green Swamp in Central Florida. Gator property!
      • Ryobi BT3000

      #3
      What I've used is plumber's tape (it's actually metal strap with holes in it). Securing it to the bookcase first and then have about an inch and half up to 2 inches above the case. Then screwing it to a stud. HTH

      Comment

      • cwsmith
        Veteran Member
        • Dec 2005
        • 2737
        • NY Southern Tier, USA.
        • BT3100-1

        #4
        Earthquake conditions would be a challenge for sure, and just screwing through a 1/4-inch ply backing may not suffice. As mentioned by Woodturner, I'd look into local or state guidelines for any code requirements or advisement's.

        When I built our library, I made the bookcases so that they would be free standing and not supported by the walls. Basically, I wasn't happy with having to use pine and figured that someday I'd just replace them with a better grade of wood, and would thus later use these in the attic or basement.

        So, my bookcases are 86" tall. Because they have no full backing, they are designed with a 3" ridgid box-like base enforced at the corners. A 3" horizontal support piece at mid-height, and a similar horizontal at the very top. All the stock is 3/4. The base and horizontal supports are screwed (1-1/2" Spax) to the sides via countersunk holes that are plugged. These are then screwed into the wall studs, two 2" long Spax at each horizontal, for a total of six screws per bookcase (widest being about 40" IIRC). These bookcases aren't going anywhere.

        While the bookcases may seem a bit unsightly with those lateral supports when bare, they are completely hidden by shelves that are well stocked with books. If your bookcases are to be used more for decorative items, I'd probably consider such fastening to be directly behind a shelf where they would be hidden (providing your shelves are adjustable/removable... only the very middle shelf and case top are fixed on mine.

        In any case, I would ensure that you are fastening into a stud, and not trying to just anchor into the wall board.

        I hope this helps,

        CWS
        Think it Through Before You Do!

        Comment

        • leehljp
          Just me
          • Dec 2002
          • 8429
          • Tunica, MS
          • BT3000/3100

          #5
          There were a variety of earthquake hardware that suddenly appeared in just about every local hardware store and home center in Japan that after the 1995 Hanshin quake (Kobe), but very limited before. ON a rare occasion, I have seen some here in the States. I did find some on Amazon:

          Last edited by leehljp; 11-27-2015, 08:44 PM.
          Hank Lee

          Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!

          Comment

          • capncarl
            Veteran Member
            • Jan 2007
            • 3564
            • Leesburg Georgia USA
            • SawStop CTS

            #6
            Since you have not installed the bookcases yet you have the luxury to do it right. Not being in a earthquake area the suggestion is from pratical experience learned by installing bookcases, tall furniture, drink and candy machines that could be overturned by kids climbing on it and adults accidentally pulling them over! ( yep you may have guessed it, Marines will climb on anything ) I would install a piece of shallow unistrut horizontal on the wall, anchor to the wall at every stud with 2 1/2" lag screws. Attach each bookcase to the unistrut using their sliding nut system with a screw through the bookcase or a strap. Unistrut (sold at all electrical supply stores, Lowes and HD ) is extremely strong and is used to mount all matter of equipment and as a pipe and conduit hanger system. Unistrut also makes great work bench legs and framing.
            capncarl

            Comment

            • JR
              The Full Monte
              • Feb 2004
              • 5633
              • Eugene, OR
              • BT3000

              #7
              If you're just trying to keep it from toppling over in the next temblor there are some Velcro straps available specifically for that purpose. Attach one side to the wall and the other to the top of the carcass. Check Home Depot.

              if you want a built-in look, here's what I'd do. Screw a cleat to the wall studs (or maybe two cleats, one high, one low). Screw the backs of your shelves to the cleat. Apply some trim around the perimeter if the gap between the wall and the carcass is unsightly.
              JR

              Comment

              • partialresponse
                Forum Newbie
                • Dec 2003
                • 61
                • Morgan Hill, CA, USA.
                • Ryobi BT 3000

                #8
                Thanks all for the suggestions. The L-brackets or shallow unistrut on the top seem the best option. The three sections will also need some slight but permanent alignment to present a neat appearance at their interfaces. I mentioned the 1/4" plywood back to suggest that it would probably not be sturdy enough to hold the bookcase to the wall since that plywood back is attached to the bookcase carcass by brads that will easily pull out under any significant level of stress.

                -Kofi
                Last edited by partialresponse; 11-29-2015, 10:42 PM.

                Comment

                • partialresponse
                  Forum Newbie
                  • Dec 2003
                  • 61
                  • Morgan Hill, CA, USA.
                  • Ryobi BT 3000

                  #9
                  Originally posted by JR
                  If you're just trying to keep it from toppling over in the next temblor there are some Velcro straps available specifically for that purpose. Attach one side to the wall and the other to the top of the carcass. Check Home Depot.

                  if you want a built-in look, here's what I'd do. Screw a cleat to the wall studs (or maybe two cleats, one high, one low). Screw the backs of your shelves to the cleat. Apply some trim around the perimeter if the gap between the wall and the carcass is unsightly.
                  I saw this just after I'd posted my comments to the other suggestions.

                  I'd initially also thought of cleats but couldn't determine how they'd attach to the bookcase without using the (flimsy) plywood back. And this with the additional constraint that the three sections should not have any gaps between them (for esthetic reasons.)

                  -Kofi

                  Comment

                  • woodturner
                    Veteran Member
                    • Jun 2008
                    • 2047
                    • Western Pennsylvania
                    • General, Sears 21829, BT3100

                    #10
                    Originally posted by cwsmith
                    When I built our library, I made the bookcases so that they would be free standing and not supported by the walls. Basically, I wasn't happy with having to use pine and figured that someday I'd just replace them with a better grade of wood, and would thus later use these in the attic or basement.
                    Your comment prompted another thought - if the bookcases are floor to ceiling height, so they are "wedged" in place, that would keep them from tipping as well. The design would have to accommodate that, though, and they would have to be installed in sections vertically, since they could not be tipped into place.
                    --------------------------------------------------
                    Electrical Engineer by day, Woodworker by night

                    Comment

                    • woodturner
                      Veteran Member
                      • Jun 2008
                      • 2047
                      • Western Pennsylvania
                      • General, Sears 21829, BT3100

                      #11
                      Originally posted by leehljp
                      There were a variety of earthquake hardware that suddenly appeared in just about every local hardware store and home center in Japan that after the 1995 Hanshin quake (Kobe), but very limited before.
                      Those appear to be straps and fasteners, but look like the straps may be more like a hold-down strap than a cloth strap. Is that the difference with the earthquake hardware, stronger straps? If not, what is different about it? Is the flexibility of the strap to allow some movement important, or would a rigid piece like an angle bracket be suitable?
                      --------------------------------------------------
                      Electrical Engineer by day, Woodworker by night

                      Comment

                      • leehljp
                        Just me
                        • Dec 2002
                        • 8429
                        • Tunica, MS
                        • BT3000/3100

                        #12
                        Originally posted by woodturner
                        Those appear to be straps and fasteners, but look like the straps may be more like a hold-down strap than a cloth strap. Is that the difference with the earthquake hardware, stronger straps? If not, what is different about it? Is the flexibility of the strap to allow some movement important, or would a rigid piece like an angle bracket be suitable?
                        What I remember is that they (most attachments) did allow for movement, some more than others. The more movement straps were for items like TVs that were not as close to the wall but on top of a base. These were to keep the TV on top of the base (protection of the object) and more importantly becoming a projectile or falling over. On larger and taller items, the primary purpose is to keep the case from becoming projectiles or falling over on top of people or items that might be on the floor, not for protection of the contents. The supports (in reality) should be strong enough to handle more than the weight of what ever the strap/bracket is holding. This is especially true in which there is a two part case such as china cabinet or two part book cases and the bottom is jolted out from under it.

                        The above is not an engineers description by any means but more from practical experience memory. I still have vivid memories of two friends' houses in Kobe in which large and heavy book cases were on top of each other like fallen dominos. Anyone under those would have been crushed to death.

                        ON my terminology of "becoming a projectile" above, I got that from watching several short tv spots repeatedly that showed the initial thrust being so intense that metal filing cabinets were thrown across a room. A TV can become a projectile, even a waist high cabinet.
                        Last edited by leehljp; 11-28-2015, 08:58 AM.
                        Hank Lee

                        Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!

                        Comment

                        • capncarl
                          Veteran Member
                          • Jan 2007
                          • 3564
                          • Leesburg Georgia USA
                          • SawStop CTS

                          #13
                          The reason thin unistrut is used rather that standard is to allow for the set out from the wall by the base molding.

                          Comment

                          • LinuxRandal
                            Veteran Member
                            • Feb 2005
                            • 4889
                            • Independence, MO, USA.
                            • bt3100

                            #14
                            Let me take a slightly different approach................

                            First, I will preface, that the earthquake country I am in, well the last time it had a major quake, the rivers ran backwards and it was felt going out to the coasts. So we don't really have a earthquake building code, because it was pretty catastrophic.

                            Second, let me ask when was your residence built?
                            The reason I ask, that, is because I would be interested in how your upper kitchen cabinets are mounted? I would think something like a board across the back of the cabinet with a slot / that fits in one on the wall with with a slot the other direction \. (not sure of the term, should know it, but brain dead at the moment). Then if you wanted to use the safety strapping as well, well that would be a good idea, that might allow you some seconds before the large item falls (but won't help with everything on the bookshelf, which will still be a problem).
                            I would think that might be better then just screws into a stud or two (distributes the weight, and should allow some side to side movement).
                            She couldn't tell the difference between the escape pod, and the bathroom. We had to go back for her.........................Twice.

                            Comment

                            • mpc
                              Senior Member
                              • Feb 2005
                              • 979
                              • Cypress, CA, USA.
                              • BT3000 orig 13amp model

                              #15
                              Originally posted by LinuxRandal
                              I would think something like a board across the back of the cabinet with a slot / that fits in one on the wall with with a slot the other direction \. (not sure of the term, should know it, but brain dead at the moment).
                              You mean a French cleat?

                              Where I work we have the standard cubicle walls. Metal "L" brackets are hooked over those and screwed into the tops of our closed-face book cabinets for earthquake safety. I would bet a couple "L" brackets lag-screwed to the wall studs and screwed (long screws!) into sold structure of the cabinets would be enough to keep them upright.

                              mpc

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