What finish to keep white maple white?

[radhak]

My computer-table-top will be edged with 2" wide maple. It's not figured - just plain light colored. For sake of aesthetics I want to keep the color light, to contrast with the dark mahogany plywood top.

So how do I finish the maple? I was thinking of sealing it with clear Shellac (Zinsser sealcoat, maybe), and a hard top coat like Crystalac poly-oxide.

Any comments?

[jking]

I was going to suggest a polyurethane/acrylic finish as they typically dry clear and don't yellow with time. It looks like you are already going in that direction.

[chopnhack]

Ditto. Test it on a sample and see if the color is to your liking. No matter what you apply, its going to look a bit different color wise, but since you will treat the mahogany with the same finish, the contrast should remain equal.

Are we getting a pic to go with this radhak??

[radhak]

Yes, I should add a photograph. I know how satisfying it is to see a picture when answering such questions :-)

So I went to HD, and found that they sell the Sealcoat only online! The regular Shellac warns not to put under poly, so I gotta wait, or think alternatives.

And now I am wondering if I need the shellac at all, or I could just put the Crystalac right on the wood.

I also saw this just now - 3 years old article, but I've heard the author's name before : Shellac as a sealer? It’s all just hype

Any thoughts?

[twistsol]

For the trim in our house, I've used nitrocellulose lacquer over bare maple which yellows in a couple of years. I switched to water based Crystalac over bare maple and have seen almost no color change in 5-6 years.

[radhak]

Wow, Chr's! That matches exactly! If your trim has withstood the weather, my table top has nothing to fear!

[twistsol]

This is trim IN our house, nothing outside.

[radhak]

Aah, ok.

But still, matches my situation, somewhat - and I guess that while a table-top is liable to be scuffed up more than door trim, the color issue is not impacted.

[dbhost]

My first instinct was to suggest poly like you did, however in my experience most poly has a slight yellowing effect. I personally prefer the aged maple look anyway, so this isn't an issue for my projects. I got a cheap Chinese guitar recently for my wife to play, that has what they call a "vintage tinted" maple finish that takes that look to extremes. I have heard the color called "nuclear orange"... Something to be avoided for srue!

Were it not for expansion / contraction of the maple, an automotive acrylic clear coat would sure do the trick. Most auto parts shops, and even Walmart carry the "Duplicolor" brand clear coat in a rattle can, and in a pour can to be thinned and sprayed with a gun. I have a pending project that I am considering somewhat conservatively (I am in NO hurry to need to do this project, more on that in another thread) that this would be perfect for...

[twistsol]

Crystalac is an extremely hard finish as far as clear coats go. They also have an extra hard version for flooring which I imagine would hold up even better. I've applied it unthinned with my four stage HVLP Fuji sprayer and have had excellent results.

[chopnhack]

The reason for the shellac first is to seal the wood and act as a sanding sealer - i.e. fill the pores and minor imperfections while making it easy to do a final sand. Its also cheaper than using your primary finish as a sanding sealer, which you could, just not as easy to sand. I am sure the shellac is going to dry faster too. Depends on your wallet and time frame - once you open the can either starts to age so if you think you will have plenty of leftover of your primary finish with no other projects coming up, just buy the primary finish.